rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

I still can't post pics on this site, so please bear with me through this...

While installing this kit on my '83 (and converting to SE strut housings and rear axle in the process), I've noticed a few things that may help others and have a couple of questions myself...

1) If you are installing this kit with Racing Beat's adjustable lower control arms, you may want to cut a couple of threads off of the side bolts (two per side) that secure the adjustable portion of the LCA to the pivot on the Racing Beat part.

2) You may want to add another 1/2" ID x 1/2" length sleeve to the heim-jointed tie rod ends. The tie rod heim option comes with one spacer per tie rod, but adding another on the opposite side of the heim will give a bit more articulation...

3) All parts fit together great, only problem I had was with the urethane bushings I opted for in the factory lower control arms. I took the excess urethane on the sides down to the inner steel sleeve with a grinder and it made installation a breeze...

4) A question-it seems like the only logical way to install them, but the heim-jointed tie rods do install under the billet steering arm, don't they? I got smaller sway bar end links because I plan to lower the car quite a bit and figured the smaller end links would help to keep the sway bar parallel to the ground at ride height. With the sway bar installed on my shorter end links, there is no room on the top of the steering arm to install the new tie rod ends. I'm tempted to just order new factory pieces since they have more travel and won't bind at full suspension droop...

5) Another question-approximately how much material did you guys remove from each end of the rack's threads? By following Billy's instructions, it looks like I'll only have to cut about a half-inch from each side. The pivot points in the fox body rack are damn near dead on with the pivot points of the factory lower control arms, so I'd say that bumpsteer will pretty much be eliminated with this kit. Great job Billy, you've engineered another great product!

Thanks in advance to all who share their time, help, and cooperation with me through this installation. You guys have been a bit help...

-Adam Collins

djessence

Some good observations.

Get pics up!! lol, you can use a hosting site like photobucket, because i can never upload pics directly on the site for some reason. There havent been too many pics of this installed kit.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Yes, I have not had a pair of the adjustable control arms to know for sure if they would fit. Good info for those who want to use them.


The spacers provided with the outer tie rod kit are just a starting point. Since the thickness of them decides the bump steer you will need to make adjustments. Different thickness 1/2" id shims.

The stock crossmember probably had a larger tolerance on the gap. The metal is thin enough for the bolts to compress down on the bushings. Our piece is thicker so we hold the gap to a closer tolerance.

They rod ends do mount to the bottom of the steering arms. For a street car the factory outer tie rods should be used. The rod end kit should only be used on race cars. And care needs to be taken not to bind the rod end up when jacking the car up. Also should not be used with standard style springs without droop limiters. This can bend and break the adjusters. The rod end can only rotate so much. I can not stress this enough.

Normally you will be removing a good bit more than 1/2". Closer to 2" to 3" inches.


Let me know if you have any other questions.
-billy

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Good observations, I too had to remove some of the poly material from the bushings to get the control arms in there.
I removed several inches off inner tie rod ends, actually had to go back and remove a bit more after getting the car back on the ground, it was toed out way too much.
One question I have, why should we stay away from optional rod ends for street use? noise? or are there other concerns?

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I would like to hear about the rod ends too as I plan on having them on my car.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

The concerns are the binding I mentioned in the first post. They can put stress in the threaded adapters if the strut is allowed to droop to its fullest extent.

Basically comes down to there is only so much mis-alignment the rod end can see before it binds on the bolt to the body of the rod end.

-billy

82transam

iTrader: (18)

So since street cars potentially see more suspension movement over bumps and potholes you think we might have binding issues? Guess that makes sense.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

That as well as someone building a track car is going to be more familiar with a rod end and how it is used. Also, track cars are going to have shorter shock inserts which will mean less droop.

Its just something to think about. Care should be taken when using the outer rod end kit. ANY street car does not need rod end outer tie rods.


-billy

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Ok that makes sense. Guess thats one little thing I'll take off my "to buy from re-speed" list

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info, Billy. I'll make sure to order some new factory outer tie rod ends ASAP. It would be possible to drill out the hole and use a larger heim joint with high misalignment spacers, but as you pointed out it's not going to be really beneficial to street cars. Thanks for the heads up! Hopefully I can get some pics of my kit installed soon.

Also, do I need to use the thrust bearing and washers that came with the front coilover kit with RB springs, factory upper spring mount, and your camber plates? Thanks again for your help...

-Adam Collins

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Coil over kit uses 2.5" ID springs. I do not believe the RB springs will fit on them.

-billy

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

The RB Spring don't fit. I tried.

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Sorry I haven't been on here in a while...Billy-I've purchased your front coilover kit (race style with the weld-on lower mounts to get the car as low as possible) but I don't currently have it installed yet. I have the camber plates installed, but not the coilover kit-I'm using RB springs and the factory upper spring cup for the time being. My question was referring to using the thrust bearing and washers with the factory upper spring cups until I get another set of SE strut housings to weld the lower mounts to (I don't want to disassemble the entire front suspension yet and grind off my beautiful powdercoating job on the strut housings). Do I need to use the thrust bearing and washers with the camber plates and stock upper spring seats? I got the bearing and washers with the coilover kit, but the description on the camber plates mentioned them no longer being sold with the kit because they're included with the coilover kit. I also think I'll need a spacer (at least one) above the bearing in the camber plates since the local machine shop removed too much material from my Illumina front struts. I should have gotten them from you and had you remove the material from the shaft to insure a perfect fit. I had found a better price on them from ebay and thought I'd save a bit of money, but it's turning out to be more of a mess and costing me more than I had figured by trying to go the cheap route. I've learned my lesson-all of my suspension parts are coming from you from now on...

I did end up removing a bit over two inches from each side of the rack after I got some new factory tie rod ends, but with the rod ends it looked like less material was going to have to be cut off. Thanks for your help and guidance, and especially for such a high quality kit! If anybody has any doubts about ordering this kit from ReSpeed, I can vouch and attest to it's quality and your customer service! Thanks for everything...

-Adam Collins

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Adam,

Yes you can use the thrust bearings and washers with the stock spring seats. They will float around a bit since they are not held together with a pocket like the coil over spring seats - They will be fine though.

-billy

rxforspeed

iTrader: (3)

Cool-thanks. I just wanted to make sure that I had everything OK in my front end before I set her down...