1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Replacing Rear Drum Brake Hardlines

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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 02:10 PM
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Replacing Rear Drum Brake Hardlines

Has anyone replaced the rear drum brake hardlines on a '79 RX-7? I found a leak right above the rear differential and need to get it fixed so I can stop my car without constantly using the e-brake. I am curious if I can just use a standard line or if it needs a special fitting. I looked in the Victoria British catalogue and it almost looks like the brake line going to the back brakes split into a "Y" with a hardline going to each side. Has anyone encountered this? Thanks.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 02:55 PM
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Order the hardlines from summit, slide the orig end fittings and then flare it. Are you sure its not leaking from the rubber hose or the "Wye"? I just never seen a hardline go bad without getting hit by something.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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I went to the local part store, got a 60" length of brake line with the "japanese" fittings (as my parts store calls them) already on them. They're a little shorter than stock, so they don't contour the pumpkin as well, but they work fine. I bent mine by hand, took me forever. Careful not to crimp them (bending too far so that they squeeze shut in the middle). It took me almost 2hrs to bend and fit my first hardline, only to crimp it on the last bend. The second one took me half the time

Wacky, if you've never seen a hardline go bad without getting hit by something, then you've never seen cars that have been driven in the salt and snow of Canada!

Jon
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by vipernicus42


Wacky, if you've never seen a hardline go bad without getting hit by something, then you've never seen cars that have been driven in the salt and snow of Canada!

Jon

Exactly. I wont trade LA's smog and traffic for anything else. We can drive 24/7 and no need to put away our cars for winter.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by wackyracer
Exactly. I wont trade LA's smog and traffic for anything else. We can drive 24/7 and no need to put away our cars for winter.
You just need to move to the SE.



The 79 has the odd pitch on the threads so keep that in mind. And There are two hard lines One goes from the Center to the Driver side and then one goes from the driver side to the passenger side.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:38 PM
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I never knew about the thread pitch difference! Good thing to know!

Anyone know what the pitch is if you have to get new fittings?

Jon
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 04:41 PM
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Send me a SASE. and I will send you as many as you want..Of course, brand spanking new from junkcars.


I think I get more attention for posting an open ended answer.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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Does anyone know the length of hardline I need to run from the passenger rear drum to where it connects to the splitter for the rear brakes?
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 11:29 AM
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Can anyone help me with the above question? I am heading home tonight to work on the car and would like to know how much hardline to get. Thanks.
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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When you go home, just stick your head under there and roughly measure it. Go to the parts store and buy one that measures close to it, already flared with fittings on the end. You can always make more gradual bends if you have a longer line, or slightly more conservative routing if you have a shorter line. Just make it *close* and make sure you get the right thread on the fittings

Jon
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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so whats the name of that store. Most of the stores in Socal doesnt carry an over-the-counter brake line with mazda thread pitch.
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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From: Land Of Confusion southern MI, USA
Originally Posted by vipernicus42
I went to the local part store, got a 60" length of brake line with the "japanese" fittings (as my parts store calls them) already on them. They're a little shorter than stock, so they don't contour the pumpkin as well, but they work fine. I bent mine by hand, took me forever. Careful not to crimp them (bending too far so that they squeeze shut in the middle). It took me almost 2hrs to bend and fit my first hardline, only to crimp it on the last bend. The second one took me half the time

Wacky, if you've never seen a hardline go bad without getting hit by something, then you've never seen cars that have been driven in the salt and snow of Canada!

Jon
i did this as well, but i used a tube bender so that i woulnt colapse it, but you can always just use like a soup can or something similar,


also if you have more line than you need, you can make it go in a loop or something of the lik, to waste space, just make sure it has room, and wont get pinched from the suspension movement. ill see if i can find a picture of mine.
and wacky, mine went without anything hitting it...except for this shitty michigan weather.

Last edited by perfect_circle; Mar 3, 2006 at 01:49 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 02:36 PM
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From: Des Moines, IA
Originally Posted by vipernicus42
When you go home, just stick your head under there and roughly measure it. Go to the parts store and buy one that measures close to it, already flared with fittings on the end. You can always make more gradual bends if you have a longer line, or slightly more conservative routing if you have a shorter line. Just make it *close* and make sure you get the right thread on the fittings

Jon
That would work except the closest parts store is a 45 minute drive from where my car is. That is why I am asking for a length on here...so I can pick up the line and have it when I get home.
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Old Mar 3, 2006 | 02:42 PM
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2120199/1
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