Removing rear disks
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Removing rear disks
I have an 82 GSL. I'm trying to remove my rear disk to get them machined. I removed the two screws on the disk and tryed wailing on it with a hammer, but it didn't budge. Is there something else holding it on?
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,841
Received 2,604 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
i think the 12a's have this too, but theres an unused threaded hole in the disc. put a bolt in there and tighten it and the rotor pops off
#5
My 7 is my girlfriend.
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
There should be nothing else holding them on, aside from stubbornness and possibly corrosion between the disc and hub surfaces. Coat them down with PB Blaster (or your choice of liquid) inside and out and let them sit for a bit, then go at them again with the hammer.
Trending Topics
#10
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
For furure reference, the star wheel adjusters also need to be backed off to clear the wear on the inside face of the drums where the shoes ride. I had one that the owner let go way too long and the adjusting wheel exceeded it's limit and ran out of thread. Once that happened, the wheel could no longer be backed off, it refused to rethread itself back together.
I ended up cutting a groove most of the way through the diameter of the drum with a die grinder and a 4" cut off wheel, then spliting the drum in half with a cold chisel and BFH. Not a pretty sight nor a fun job.
The owner was poor and broke, couldn't afford a new master cylinder so he was using the e-brake to stop the car. He eventually wrapped it around a tree when something in the front suspension broke and totalled the car. No biggie, it was a Honda SI but he had put quite a bit of work in it.
When renewing drum brakes, not only does one need to back off the adjusters to remove the drums and install the new shoes, the new shoes need to be adjusted also. Backing up in a straight line, then firmly applying the brakes adjusts the shoes However, if one tends to back out of the driveway, while turning the wheel the same way every time, one side will tend to over adjust/tighten, compared to the other. It's best to adjust the new shoes until one can hear a slight drag, then back the star wheels off a few notches.
I ended up cutting a groove most of the way through the diameter of the drum with a die grinder and a 4" cut off wheel, then spliting the drum in half with a cold chisel and BFH. Not a pretty sight nor a fun job.
The owner was poor and broke, couldn't afford a new master cylinder so he was using the e-brake to stop the car. He eventually wrapped it around a tree when something in the front suspension broke and totalled the car. No biggie, it was a Honda SI but he had put quite a bit of work in it.
When renewing drum brakes, not only does one need to back off the adjusters to remove the drums and install the new shoes, the new shoes need to be adjusted also. Backing up in a straight line, then firmly applying the brakes adjusts the shoes However, if one tends to back out of the driveway, while turning the wheel the same way every time, one side will tend to over adjust/tighten, compared to the other. It's best to adjust the new shoes until one can hear a slight drag, then back the star wheels off a few notches.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
streetlegal?
New Member RX-7 Technical
13
03-17-22 02:46 PM