Regarding the fast idle choke rod...
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Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 62
From: So. Arlington, TX!!!
I don't know if this is an across the board feature for all the different year Nikki's, but I did discover this about my '84 choke mechanism. When it got rebuilt, the guy that did it didn't actually have the car. They did a great job, but didn't set the choke or throttle butterly clearances when they put it back together. The manuals, Haynes and Mazda say it can't be done when it's on the car, but I found out today this ain't the case. Cut to the chase....the rod in question looks very close to this drawing...you can't actually detach it once it's on the carb just like they say... 
Do NOT unbend the "bend"! It's important so that the rotation of the choke plate and rod will clear the plate holding the choke coil element seen to the left of the rod...
To test it, look down the side of the carb to where it attaches at the bottom. The fast idle "cam" is nothing more than that bracket arm you see attached to the rod pressing down on a "beam" connected directly to the throttle butterflies. What you're shooting for is this. When the choke is applied, it closes the choke plate. When the choke plate shows a 1/4" or more clearance from actually closing, that rod should have the bracket arm already touching the throttle butterfly bracket beam.
Hope that helps anyone who's got a problem with the car dying despite the choke being pulled out halfway. That was my problem and it is now gone...

Do NOT unbend the "bend"! It's important so that the rotation of the choke plate and rod will clear the plate holding the choke coil element seen to the left of the rod...- Disconnect the upper part of the choke rod from the air horn bracket...

- Get your favorite set of medium duty pliers and grab the rod past that bend and get a firm grip...
- Pull upwards carefully, but with extreme even pressure, you'll feel the rod "give"...GO SLOW...
- Re-attach the rod...

To test it, look down the side of the carb to where it attaches at the bottom. The fast idle "cam" is nothing more than that bracket arm you see attached to the rod pressing down on a "beam" connected directly to the throttle butterflies. What you're shooting for is this. When the choke is applied, it closes the choke plate. When the choke plate shows a 1/4" or more clearance from actually closing, that rod should have the bracket arm already touching the throttle butterfly bracket beam.
Hope that helps anyone who's got a problem with the car dying despite the choke being pulled out halfway. That was my problem and it is now gone...
Last edited by mar3; Sep 20, 2008 at 09:26 PM. Reason: reposting pics...
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 62
From: So. Arlington, TX!!!
I'm closing this thread so I don't get a bunch of "all i see are red x's" replies messing up this thread...I have the pics saved on an older PC and I'll put them back in, but I need to hit the sack for now...I was looking for this thread to help out a new member in the new member section since no one else was...
...enjoy the x's...
...enjoy the x's...
Last edited by mar3; Sep 18, 2008 at 09:56 PM.
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Man I cant even draw a stick figure!
