Refinishing those faded plastic interior pieces
#1
Refinishing those faded plastic interior pieces
For those of you that are tired of seeing those faded interior pieces. Just get some of Krylons plastic paint. No primer needed, just clean and prep the surface then shoot. I used their satin black instead of gloss block to keep the color as close to original. Of course black is the easiest paint to match or atleast get close. Those of you with maroon and brown may have a harder time but should be able to find something that will work and look nice.
#5
Originally Posted by aws140
are you sure thatll hold? ray green has a method he uses that has outstanding results. hopefully hell chime in on this with more details.
#7
yeah krylon works good. i did my entire crx with it. i only had one problem with one piece because i layerd it on too think and it ran. Gotta watch that.
Wash with amonia before painting
Wash with amonia before painting
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#9
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Originally Posted by rx7doctor
This is on my SA. I am not doing the whole interior just certain pieces that have faded and no longer look good.
#10
Here's a killer product for vinyl plastic rubber etc. Picked it up on ebay but they now sell at napas. I used it on my dash and it looks just as good as it did 6 months ago when i put it in. It dries and gives you that armor all finish without drying it out like armor all does. This really is an amazing product. They also have a water based degreaser which works very well. WATER BASED! http://www.303products.com/tech/inde...TOKEN=60824806
#11
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
I'm not a big fan of the Krylon line of rattle can paints, too glossy. SEM however, is designed for painting the interior plastics and they have colors that are almost a perfect match fo all 3 of the S3 interior colors. Fwiw. any decent autobody paint shop can mix up matching interior paint colors and add a flex/interior agent to it.
When I did a complete color change in my Z, I used Lesenol paint. It's about 40 bucks a qt., but that's almost enough to do an entire interior and you can get any color/shade or gloss factor you want. A small compressor and a $50 touch-up gun will give nearly professional looking results.
When I did a complete color change in my Z, I used Lesenol paint. It's about 40 bucks a qt., but that's almost enough to do an entire interior and you can get any color/shade or gloss factor you want. A small compressor and a $50 touch-up gun will give nearly professional looking results.
#12
oh wow... samples for 5$ shipping http://www.303products.com/main.php?infopage=freesample
#13
Censored
iTrader: (14)
As promised by awa140:
Before:
After:
Advantages:
Preserves original parts and colors, can be repeated as needed
No peeling or fading paint
Don't need to buy paint or much else but steel wool
Disadvantages:
It's quite a bit of work
Even a good job will still look a bit less than shiny new
If you don't like maroon or brown you still get maroon or brown (I like maroon and brown)
Details at:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/479957/14
Before:
After:
Advantages:
Preserves original parts and colors, can be repeated as needed
No peeling or fading paint
Don't need to buy paint or much else but steel wool
Disadvantages:
It's quite a bit of work
Even a good job will still look a bit less than shiny new
If you don't like maroon or brown you still get maroon or brown (I like maroon and brown)
Details at:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/479957/14
#14
Originally Posted by trochoid
I'm not a big fan of the Krylon line of rattle can paints, too glossy. SEM however, is designed for painting the interior plastics and they have colors that are almost a perfect match fo all 3 of the S3 interior colors. Fwiw. any decent autobody paint shop can mix up matching interior paint colors and add a flex/interior agent to it.
When I did a complete color change in my Z, I used Lesenol paint. It's about 40 bucks a qt., but that's almost enough to do an entire interior and you can get any color/shade or gloss factor you want. A small compressor and a $50 touch-up gun will give nearly professional looking results.
When I did a complete color change in my Z, I used Lesenol paint. It's about 40 bucks a qt., but that's almost enough to do an entire interior and you can get any color/shade or gloss factor you want. A small compressor and a $50 touch-up gun will give nearly professional looking results.
Is there a site for SEM paints? Or where can they be purchased.
#16
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by rx7doctor
That's why I use the Satin finish and not the gloss black. It's still a few shades off of the original being lighter than the original black.
Is there a site for SEM paints? Or where can they be purchased.
Is there a site for SEM paints? Or where can they be purchased.
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2006
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Originally Posted by rx7doctor
For those of you that are tired of seeing those faded interior pieces. Just get some of Krylons plastic paint. No primer needed, just clean and prep the surface then shoot. I used their satin black instead of gloss block to keep the color as close to original. Of course black is the easiest paint to match or atleast get close. Those of you with maroon and brown may have a harder time but should be able to find something that will work and look nice.
#19
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Modified: Looks much better than the Krylon job I attempted. But since then I've picked up the doorpanels I needed from the PnP. Now I just need 2 more parts which I hope to find this weekend.
#22
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Modified85
I did my door panels with SEM. I did this about 2 years ago and it still looks like it was just finished. I got the SEM from my local auto/body paint shop.
I'm considering something like this for the small interior peices in the car. I'm working on re-upholstering most of the interior and adding new carpet n such. But the small peices need to be turned burgundy again instead of the pale brown they faded into. So I'm considering this a good alternative.
#23
OK guys here's the skinny:
To paint the hard plastic parts the original factory color you should prime with a plastic primer. I use DPX 801 from PPG. It actually softens the plastic so the paint will stick. Your local autobody supplier will have it (or something similiar), as well as being able to mix the correct color from the code on your car. For those without a compressor, a re-fillable spray bottle is available: but I suggest you buy a small compressor & a trim gun as you'll get much better results, plus you can pump up your tires. :-)
SEM as well as PPG & others make good products to shoot the vinyl seats & other flexible materials. They work well, & hold up well with the exception the it will *wear* off after a few years.
You have to make sure anything you paint is *clean* first. Check the product labels or tech sheets for everything you use.
Another note: black is *not* black. There are different *degrees* of black. For instance, black Imron looks green next to most other blacks. Others will have a reddish or blueish tint. For a true black, you need to get the jet black mixing color from your supplier.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Headline: APATHY RUNS RAMPANT - Nobody cares.
To paint the hard plastic parts the original factory color you should prime with a plastic primer. I use DPX 801 from PPG. It actually softens the plastic so the paint will stick. Your local autobody supplier will have it (or something similiar), as well as being able to mix the correct color from the code on your car. For those without a compressor, a re-fillable spray bottle is available: but I suggest you buy a small compressor & a trim gun as you'll get much better results, plus you can pump up your tires. :-)
SEM as well as PPG & others make good products to shoot the vinyl seats & other flexible materials. They work well, & hold up well with the exception the it will *wear* off after a few years.
You have to make sure anything you paint is *clean* first. Check the product labels or tech sheets for everything you use.
Another note: black is *not* black. There are different *degrees* of black. For instance, black Imron looks green next to most other blacks. Others will have a reddish or blueish tint. For a true black, you need to get the jet black mixing color from your supplier.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"
Headline: APATHY RUNS RAMPANT - Nobody cares.