Ok so i have a 45 dcoe carb (not really tuned yet) and a pace setter exhaust manifold (open headers lol). I get the car started with a little carb spray and she starts up but idles high af. At like 3k. And after about 5 seconds the crappy pace setter headers get hot as **** which meant all the paint burnt up and flaked off, and the tube literally gets red hot. I had some exhaust wrap on it but it was smoking cause the paint under it was burning up so i took it off. What else besides wrap can i dp to keep the exhaust from blowing up on me? Is this common?

 

I'm not an expert but this sounds like she's running really lean.

 

Really rich. Or no leading ignition.

 

Interesting I thought it would be the other way around. Now we're learn'n.
I guess looking at the plugs would provide some information.

 

New plugs. Ignition coils were fine before i put on the new carb and headers. I would be surprised if that is whats wrong. Ive never really heard of headers actually get red hot unless it was a race car being beat on, not an rx7 idleing for 30 seconds

 

Sounds like you're rich if you car is idling at 3k . Make sure the throttle plates are set correctly and try a smaller idle jet. When it runs to rich the un burned fuel builds up in the exhaust and burns there. Causing them to glow red from heat. It may also cause the intake manifold to sweat cold along with the rest of the engine. A lean condition can also cause this but will more then likely cause everything else to be hot as well (intake engine radiator ect. ) how is your Weber set up?? Chokes jets air corrector ect.

 

Starting fluid?????? You should check your carb and timing first

 

What do you mean check my carb? And timing?

 

If your carb is jetted properly/float at correct level so does the timing, then it should start without a starting fluid and no bouncy idle

 

I have a 45 dcoe Weber with
180 main jet
65 F9 idle jet
45 pump jet
F16 Emulsion tube
155 air corrector
These should all be good sizes

 

Could be a vacuum leak, especially if it's idling very high. I would check for that first, since it's the easiest thing to check. After that, I would get an a/f gauge and put it in the header, to see where your a/f ratio is at. From there it makes it a lot easier to figure out.

 

I just dealt with this exact scenario only with my fuel injected gsl-se.

Check your timing. Even if you think there is no way it's off (that's what I thought)

I was running like 90 degrees advanced

 

How do i check my timing? I dont follow ��

 

First of all, that header wont last a year I bet. Too thin and the rotary breath is way to hot for it.

Second, you need to get a timing light and then read the FSM on adjusting the timing. Now it
won't cover the timing settings for your carb setup so its just a starting point. This ain't no
fuel injected, computer controlled car, its a real, honest to god old school sports car and requires
the user to do basic things like adjust/tune carbs and timing to get it to run right. You can't just
plunk the parts on there and expect anything to work right from the start.

The fact that it starts with starting fluid means you timing and ignition are close to right. You
need to focus on the carb setup and do it from the basics. Verify that there is fuel flowing
freely from the tank thru the filter into the carb, make sure the carb is adjusted to some
initial settings so it works, etc etc. If you search for DCOE you can probably get some
recommendations.