reccomended thrermostat?
#1
reccomended thrermostat?
Currently useing my old thermostat with the center cutout. Car runs at about 130* With the new radiator and electric fan. Fuel mileage is kick'n my butt! Anyway I want to see if a hotter thermo will help me. Do you all suggest 180* original? Or should I try and go a bit cooler? I am useing the original oil cooler etc.... Any draw backs from running at 180*? I can also get a 170* and a 160*
Last edited by vxturboxv; 08-23-06 at 10:40 AM.
#5
Originally Posted by trochoid
Run the stock oem 180* thermostat. Why anyone would run thier engine at 130* is beyond me.
If I had the means to put on a race carb with the proper air bleeds and tune in the car with a WB. I believe I could benefit greatly from a cooler running engine. You could run more timing and a leaner fuel mixture. You'd just have to run some sort of fuel heater for fuel atomization, very common with the circle track guys.
But since I don't care about any of that...
It ran over 180 orig. when I bought it. So I cut the thermostat center out. With the old mech fan and rad. it dropped to 180ish with the cutout thermo. Since I added the new radiator and electric fan it runs ALOT cooler. At night It dips into the high 120's according to the little raytech laser temp gun I have.
I already dropped in the 180 thermostat temp only went up about 150ish*? Guess I'll have to get a temp switch for the electric fan to get my car running where is is suppose to. Seems strange I'm trying to get my car to run hotter...
#6
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Oils are designed to run and provide the best lubricity in certain temperature ranges. A cold engine wears faster than one at normal operating temp. Fuel mileage is worse the colder the engine is.
Definitely get a temp switch for the e-fan. Running a consistant 180* will improve performance and mpg.
When I added the fmoc to my 1/2 bp, with a non-oem thermostat, I couldn't get my temps above 150* on the highway. Installed an oem thermo, rock solid at 180* now.
Definitely get a temp switch for the e-fan. Running a consistant 180* will improve performance and mpg.
When I added the fmoc to my 1/2 bp, with a non-oem thermostat, I couldn't get my temps above 150* on the highway. Installed an oem thermo, rock solid at 180* now.
#7
Originally Posted by trochoid
Oils are designed to run and provide the best lubricity in certain temperature ranges. A cold engine wears faster than one at normal operating temp. Fuel mileage is worse the colder the engine is.
Definitely get a temp switch for the e-fan. Running a consistant 180* will improve performance and mpg.
When I added the fmoc to my 1/2 bp, with a non-oem thermostat, I couldn't get my temps above 150* on the highway. Installed an oem thermo, rock solid at 180* now.
Definitely get a temp switch for the e-fan. Running a consistant 180* will improve performance and mpg.
When I added the fmoc to my 1/2 bp, with a non-oem thermostat, I couldn't get my temps above 150* on the highway. Installed an oem thermo, rock solid at 180* now.
Anyway enough of all that!
I think your 100 percent right the auto zone thermo's don't do the trick. I'll order the factory thermo and get a fan switch.
Thanks!
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#8
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Yes, oil breaks down and it's effectiveness is reduced at higher temps, but those temps are pretty high and outside the temp range that you would want to run a rotary, (250+). Back in the 60's, when most oils were not multi-grade, but single viscosity, the wear factor on starting a cold engine was 28 times more than when running at operating temps. Multi-viscoscity oils, and the added modifiers, greatly reduce that effect now.
Many of the new engines run at higher operating temps than the older ones did so there isn't as much concern about wear. Newer engines, designed to run in the 205-210* temp range wear less and yield better fuel mileage than they would if run at 130*. These engines are also built with much tighter tolerances and the colder, thicker oil cannot make it's way in between the bearing surfaces to provide the needed lubrication, multi-viscocity or not.
Granted, our engines are not built with the same tolerences mind, but you will still see increased longevity and fuel mileage running at 180* as opposed to 130*. The only time I can see reducing the engine temps is in a high hp turbo setup. Even then I would not go below 160*.
You're on the right track with the 180* thermostat and and fan switch. Thanks for the thought provoking discourse. It's a welcome change from the weekly, turbo, hp and bodykit newbie questions.
Many of the new engines run at higher operating temps than the older ones did so there isn't as much concern about wear. Newer engines, designed to run in the 205-210* temp range wear less and yield better fuel mileage than they would if run at 130*. These engines are also built with much tighter tolerances and the colder, thicker oil cannot make it's way in between the bearing surfaces to provide the needed lubrication, multi-viscocity or not.
Granted, our engines are not built with the same tolerences mind, but you will still see increased longevity and fuel mileage running at 180* as opposed to 130*. The only time I can see reducing the engine temps is in a high hp turbo setup. Even then I would not go below 160*.
You're on the right track with the 180* thermostat and and fan switch. Thanks for the thought provoking discourse. It's a welcome change from the weekly, turbo, hp and bodykit newbie questions.
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