1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Rebuilding Carb

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Old Mar 25, 2003 | 03:42 PM
  #1  
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From: Alberta, Canada
Rebuilding Carb

So I've narrowed it down the carb needing to be replaced. My car still won't start so I'm going to rebuild the carb this following week during spring break, but before I take it out and take it apart is there anything I should know or helpful tricks anyone has? BTW I drive an 82'
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Old Mar 25, 2003 | 04:03 PM
  #2  
BrewerBob's Avatar
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From: Essex, MD
If it is the same as a '85 non-GSL, good damn luck. I just got done with mine. There are only 4 bolts holding it on but one of them is a mother!! Go buy a cheap 12mm, put it in a vice and beat the ever loving hell out of it until you get a crescent shape out of the handle.

You won't get a straight open end or socket on it. Maybe I was doing wrong since I took the carb off in one piece. It would be easier if you tear the carb down layer by layer.
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Old Mar 25, 2003 | 04:44 PM
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Airflow is my life
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From: Orlando, Fl
If you have the emissions then the back left nut is a PITA. In felix's site (in my sig) is good info on carb rebuilding.
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Old Mar 26, 2003 | 12:47 AM
  #4  
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From: YVR
I Just rebuilt a carb Nikki from a 83 rx7 that has been sitting since 1999. What a mess!! At some time ago some body tried to start it. Water in tank now in carb. Corrosion in the bowls and in fuel lines. Spent many hour's cleaning.

One thing to check before ordering carb kit is to see if your carb has one float needle seat or two floats needle seat set up. I found out the hard way, Had dealer order carb kit for the car with serial ##. The kit I received had only on needle and seat set up, and not all the gaskets that I required. One Item the dealer carb kit did have was a fine mesh filter on the upper end of the seat. This is only pushed on. The needle and seat that came for the Auto parts store kit has no screen. YOU need the screen!!!

During reassemmbly the screen fell off in to the top bowl cover. I did not notice. Dust / dirt caused flooding. The carb was installed about four time's only to flood.

Bench testing for leaks and float setup, by running clear hose to the inlet and a second for return. Use a inline filter as a union.

Before installing on engine. Let the gas run for several minutes, shake carb, pour gas out try again. SAFETY FIRST ventilation!!!! no open flames!!! bboooommm.

Leak test can be done before all the brackets are installed. I also ran some gas through the seat assembly and bowl as i put the carb together.

The small screen should be soldered to the seat assembly before installing.
This rebuild was took several weekends till I found out about the screens!!!
I was able to get a boxed end on the inboard aft nut, tight spot, stubby wrench. #12.
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Old Mar 26, 2003 | 02:13 AM
  #5  
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From: Alberta, Canada
Paavscan thanks a lot for the info, I was wondering is there anyway to tell if you have the 1 float needle or 2 float needle without ripping out the carb and physically looking at it?
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Old Mar 26, 2003 | 06:51 AM
  #6  
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From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Do some research on how carburetors work in general. The question you just asks demonstrates that you don't know enough about it to do the rebuild without getting in trouble.

I don't know what Paavscan it talking about what with soldering and stuff. He's making more work out of it than there really is.

Just my opinion.
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Old Mar 30, 2003 | 01:36 PM
  #7  
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From: YVR
On my carb the fuel line splits to a Y on the left side of carb then two bango type bolts down through the top of the carb. this is where the seat and float assembly are. I've not seen a single float and seat carb. This is my first carb rework on a rotary.
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