Rebuild kits for under $500?
12-27-04, 03:22 AM
#1
Rollin' coal and 53mpg!
Thread Starter
Rebuild kits for under $500?
ANybody know where I can locate a rebuild kit for a 83-ish 12A for under 500 bucks?
I also need some sort of induction... preferably a weber/mikuni/dell'orto.. intake manifold too.
Stock port 12A, RB Streetport Exhaust... see sig for other mods.
--Evan
I also need some sort of induction... preferably a weber/mikuni/dell'orto.. intake manifold too.
Stock port 12A, RB Streetport Exhaust... see sig for other mods.
--Evan
12-27-04, 12:49 PM
#3
Ya get in line.
You can get an engine gasket kit for about 225 - 250$. It includes everything but a rotor kit, like rotor seals, corner seals, and apex seals. Everything but seals and gaskets having to do with the rotors. So if you dont have a blown engine, you could theoretically rebuild it if your careful enough.
You can get an engine gasket kit for about 225 - 250$. It includes everything but a rotor kit, like rotor seals, corner seals, and apex seals. Everything but seals and gaskets having to do with the rotors. So if you dont have a blown engine, you could theoretically rebuild it if your careful enough.
12-27-04, 07:39 PM
#5
standard combustion
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The main consumables of the rotary in my opinion. Apex seals-inner and outer rotor rubber o-rings. The rest is questionable by anyone. But the apex seals are the most likely to cause damage when they are worn out, and those o-rings cause your engine to smoke more and more as they get older. IF you are using a 83-85 12a with stock oil cooler, all the rubber in contact with oil need to be replaced more often really.
I am doing a budget rebuild with a 12a using 12a apex seals that are half way between "new height thickness" and "out of limit" thickness according to the mazda specs. SO they will last a while, a longer break-in time, but thats fine for most budget minded folks. And if you switch to 2cycle instead of the metering pump, that may add some miles to those seals. I reuse-pretty much everything else with close inspection, but I always go with 93-95 corner seal springs and replace anything else that do not measure in spec, and replace the rotor o-rings, and front and rear engine seal. Nothing worse then having to replace the oil seal on the end of the flywheel because you damaged it in the process of taking it off or putting on the endplate. Rotor housings....don't we all wish they were a little cheaper!
I am doing a budget rebuild with a 12a using 12a apex seals that are half way between "new height thickness" and "out of limit" thickness according to the mazda specs. SO they will last a while, a longer break-in time, but thats fine for most budget minded folks. And if you switch to 2cycle instead of the metering pump, that may add some miles to those seals. I reuse-pretty much everything else with close inspection, but I always go with 93-95 corner seal springs and replace anything else that do not measure in spec, and replace the rotor o-rings, and front and rear engine seal. Nothing worse then having to replace the oil seal on the end of the flywheel because you damaged it in the process of taking it off or putting on the endplate. Rotor housings....don't we all wish they were a little cheaper!
Last edited by WackyRotary; 12-27-04 at 07:41 PM.
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