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I've decided to rejuvenate my SA with some full blown paint correction, ceramic coating, and underbody coating as well. Low and behold, when I started sanding down the lower part of the rear wheel well that needed some attention, I saw every classic car owners worst nightmare.... some actual body rot. I do have some small areas that have paint flake and some minor surface oxidization which was expected on a 40 year old vehicle, but this will require some actual cutting and fabrication to repair it properly.
From my research, I've seen that its not nearly as bad as some people have posted on here. Most have issues with the upper wheel well and where the suspension mounts are. As you can see from the photo, I'm betting this was from the time where my rear window channel drains were clogged, causing the water to build up inside the fender. My first thought was to just grind everything down, treat it with some POR15, and go to town with some filler (either fiberglass, liquid steel, or an epoxy type). However I love this car and plan on keeping it for years to come... so I was thinking of cutting out the affected area on the inner side and having a friend of mine weld in some new steel. My question is about what is behind that area of the wheel well. Im hoping its just hollow behind there but I haven't seen any photos of that area on here. It doesnt look too complicated of a job, I just was hoping to get some input from anyone who has had similar issues.
As for the fender itself, I saw they make patch panels for that area as well but I'm assuming it's just the outer shell. It also is not nearly as bad as the wheel well itself, so I figured some rust inhibitor and filler would be fine. Any guidance is greatly appreciated!
First look after some light sanding Fully exposed Bad news bears
that doesn't look too bad to fix, i would almost cut the inner panel more and then you can get to both sides of the outer skin? i'm not a body guy, and the most salt the cars see out here are from the dropped french fires
that doesn't look too bad to fix, i would almost cut the inner panel more and then you can get to both sides of the outer skin? i'm not a body guy, and the most salt the cars see out here are from the dropped french fires
Yes that's my original plan... fender looks salvageable with proper repair. I never drive it in even in the rain, let alone the winter. I haven't had a garage to park it during the summer months until last year though so this is basically from rainwater and age. Does that place mix single stage? I bought a single stage pen already for the scratches and chips but I've heard that rustoleum sunrise red aerosol was a very good match to Mazda's RH sunrise red. Even If its close.... the only parts of my repair that will require spray are on the bottom of the door panels and section shown here.
Yes that's my original plan... fender looks salvageable with proper repair. I never drive it in even in the rain, let alone the winter. I haven't had a garage to park it during the summer months until last year though so this is basically from rainwater and age. Does that place mix single stage? I bought a single stage pen already for the scratches and chips but I've heard that rustoleum sunrise red aerosol was a very good match to Mazda's RH sunrise red. Even If its close.... the only parts of my repair that will require spray are on the bottom of the door panels and section shown here.
the RH should be a single stage, and this stuff is WAY WAY better than rustoleum
Saw zaw that part off then get a patch panel from a good RX7 donner car.
That's what I'd do. Then I'd re-spray the whole car with 2 stage paint.
That area is pretty bad for storing water the inside of the panel is gonna have rust too.
You might be able to get away with a fade because you are under the "rub rail", but you said you want to keep the car. If you have that bad rust there; after you completely tear it down you're gonna find much more.
This is pretty common failure area, as you are prob gathering here. My 80 suffers this as well, tho as a WA state car, not so bad.
There is an inner compartment behind this exterior panel on the pass side. It houses the power antenna. I pulled mine (antenna) when I first got my SA in '02, and cleaned out and POR'd the interior compartment, then reinstalled the antenna. As noted, if the hatch drains plug, or if the drain HOSES get disconnected, then water can migrate into the "pockets" behind each rear fender.
Removing taillights gives access to these areas. But be ready to replace the taillight gaskets (which are now NLA) as these will prob break as the light body is pulled from the car. Hose 'em down with WD40 as you remove!
There was a company in UK (I am trying to find contact) that makes replacement rear lower fender panels for 1st Gen RX7s. I bought a set from him as BUs years ago. About $150 for both sides at the time.
Saw zaw that part off then get a patch panel from a good RX7 donner car.
That's what I'd do. Then I'd re-spray the whole car with 2 stage paint.
That area is pretty bad for storing water the inside of the panel is gonna have rust too.
You might be able to get away with a fade because you are under the "rub rail", but you said you want to keep the car. If you have that bad rust there; after you completely tear it down you're gonna find much more.
Unfortunately a full respray is out of the question for now, as I dont have my own garage (shared in an upper lower) but is not out of the question down the line. I plan on having a house by next year so i would be able to more when I have more room. For the blend I'm not looking for perfection since this is a DIY project. I'm basically doing a paint correction and salvaging what is left of the single stage paint. This will make a respray down the line much easier with all of the chips and scratches filled in. My main concern at this point is removing all the troubled rust areas, which "shouldn't" be much more than I've listed since the car has never seen a winter (primarily the areas that are not easily replaceable). I do plan on cutting that area out behind the fender... once I assess the damage behind the panel I'll have a better idea of how much more I have to remove. Fingers crossed it's not worse inside. Also my access to doners is pretty slim in this area of Western New York.... I'd have to travel or pay someone to cut out a section for me and ship it.
Originally Posted by 7aull
This is pretty common failure area, as you are prob gathering here. My 80 suffers this as well, tho as a WA state car, not so bad.
There is an inner compartment behind this exterior panel on the pass side. It houses the power antenna. I pulled mine (antenna) when I first got my SA in '02, and cleaned out and POR'd the interior compartment, then reinstalled the antenna. As noted, if the hatch drains plug, or if the drain HOSES get disconnected, then water can migrate into the "pockets" behind each rear fender.
Removing taillights gives access to these areas. But be ready to replace the taillight gaskets (which are now NLA) as these will prob break as the light body is pulled from the car. Hose 'em down with WD40 as you remove!
There was a company in UK (I am trying to find contact) that makes replacement rear lower fender panels for 1st Gen RX7s. I bought a set from him as BUs years ago. About $150 for both sides at the time.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Ah i just looked and saw that thread of you getting in through the tail light cutout. I saw that frame rail like portion and I'm hoping none of that is affected. For the patch panels you got, did those just have the outer shell of the fender? I saw some on wolf-something auto based out of Canada. Thrt had full fenders for 250, or front/rear sections for 75 each but there were no photos of the inside. Since aesthetics behind the wheel well are not a concern, as long as the welded in metal seals the area that's all that matters.
As for the gaskets.... nobody has made a template for making their own? Cant imagine it being too difficult to cut out out of some foam-like gasket material. TBH I wouldn't be surprised if that seasonal window caulk worked since its plyable and easily removed. I will be careful with removal of them though. Thanks again guys.
Stephen@sbrooks43.orangehome.co.uk
Is this the guy making the panels?
Also I thought I saw where someone’s making the tail light gaskets.. I’ll see if I can find it.
As for the gaskets.... nobody has made a template for making their own? Cant imagine it being too difficult to cut out out of some foam-like gasket material. Thanks again guys.
i think this is what a lot of people do, its just foam (JDM foam, though), and the pattern is pretty simple
someone should really scan it in, and make a pattern and laser cut them or something
Off topic but.... God I love this forum. I'm on swedespeed for my stage 3 2010 volvo S40 R-design Awd and I wait days for just a single response sometimes. Here I have a full thread in no time at all. The rx7 community is legit!
Anyways.... the taillight gasket looks like it may be larger than a standard piece of paper so a simple scan, printout, and cut might not be an option unless someone wants to buy a package of the longer paper for 1 sheet. However if I do end up needing them and order them I could ask a friend of mine to laser cut some extras. I know hes done custom glass/mirrors before so some foam gasket should be a walk in the park.
As for the rust, I will be cutting into it tomorrow or the next day to assess behind the fender.
Stephen@sbrooks43.orangehome.co.uk
Is this the guy making the panels?
Also I thought I saw where someone’s making the tail light gaskets.. I’ll see if I can find it.
Got into it this afternoon... that support rail is a slight inconvenience for cutting. I was able to cut away most of the wheel well lining without cutting into the fender. I'm still going to cut another inch or two higher inside there to expose all of the rust. All in all doesnt look terrible.
I forsee the patch panel being needed to be certain the rust doesn't come back. Not something I'll be able to get quickly but I figure as long as I can get everything prepped and ready. Just curious on how far up the panel from alfaparts goes if anyone has an idea. I will also be cleaning and rust proofing the other side because I see some flaking already from where the taillight mounts.
I guess I should start a separate thread on the tail light gaskets to keep this one from straying too far off the topic... because one of mine is shot and I see how the plastic trim sits inside of the gasket. I'll search first to see if theres an existing one before I do.
The more I think about the time and effort to cut and patch this one fender, the more I realize it wouldn't take much more to put a wide body fender on that side forcing me to do the rest of the fenders as well lol.
I did reach out to this guy but never got a response. From the other thread you mentioned this on it sounded like his parts were cheaper.
Yeah. It was some years ago that I bought my set of fender pieces. He offer(ed) 3 pieces (per side):
-rear fender behind wheel
-panel in FRONT of rear wheel
-top rim of wheel well
I just bought the rear panels and paid about $150 with shipping. Seem like excellent quality.
Sorry to hear he is not responding...
Yeah. It was some years ago that I bought my set of fender pieces. He offer(ed) 3 pieces (per side):
-rear fender behind wheel
-panel in FRONT of rear wheel
-top rim of wheel well
I just bought the rear panels and paid about $150 with shipping. Seem like excellent quality.
Sorry to hear he is not responding...
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Ah ok that's not much of a difference. I'm going to get both rear panels also to nip this asap (both sides so I'm only repainting the rear end once). Alfaparts quoted me 180 for both shipped which isnt bad coming from Canada. I'm not worried about the aesthetics of the wheel well too much.... shouldn't be hard to tack a piece in place and shape it to meet the new fender pieces. However, I am going to have the outer fender panels professionally welded in. Did you have to cut out much old the inner liner when you did yours?
i think this is what a lot of people do, its just foam (JDM foam, though), and the pattern is pretty simple
someone should really scan it in, and make a pattern and laser cut them or something
Originally Posted by mwpayne
Stephen@sbrooks43.orangehome.co.uk
Is this the guy making the panels?
Also I thought I saw where someone’s making the tail light gaskets.. I’ll see if I can find it.
I did bite the bullet and order the gaskets from Australia. I'll find something to trace them on before I reinstall them. That ebay listed had them for about 50 USD shipped which honestly isnt terrible. Shipping was over 1/3 of the cost. I'll have to get measurements on what size/thickness foam to use. These things shouldn't cost more than 20 bucks a pair locally. I'm wondering if it's possible to make two separate pieces (outer and inner) without them leaking. If not, putting a slice through the foam wouldn't be that difficult either to make it slip around the plastic.
Ah ok that's not much of a difference. I'm going to get both rear panels also to nip this asap (both sides so I'm only repainting the rear end once). Alfaparts quoted me 180 for both shipped which isnt bad coming from Canada. I'm not worried about the aesthetics of the wheel well too much.... shouldn't be hard to tack a piece in place and shape it to meet the new fender pieces. However, I am going to have the outer fender panels professionally welded in. Did you have to cut out much old the inner liner when you did yours?
Confession:
bought but NOT used. Yet. More of a 'prophylactic' purchase. The day is coming
Confession:
bought but NOT used. Yet. More of a 'prophylactic' purchase. The day is coming
Here is the whole set Stephen sold in UK...
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Ah smart move to have them on hand. The panels from alfa look a bit larger than those in the photos. It looks like they even have the plastic moulding portion shaped in as well. The only way to get the upper arc though is to buy the whole fender portion in one piece. I didnt see any issues with the front or top of either fender on mine so fingers crossed theres nothing starting behind the panels. Btw wow I hope my color pops like yours when I'm done. Looks very good.
A few road scars, but its pretty much original RH Sunrise Red paint all-round
Keep an eye on the top of the arch from the inside of the panel (accessible thru the rear taillight) - it is spot welded btw the inner and outer fender there. I POR15'd all the seams in there as well as up onto the arch internally on both rear fenders. For some reason the driver side is much better preserved...
04-17-20, 11:43 PM
