is the rear housing of the gsl-se the same as the 2nd gen NA one?
#1
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is the rear housing of the gsl-se the same as the 2nd gen NA one?
my engine housing break and now i will need to replace it
since gsl-se rear housing is hard to find now
anyone think the rear housing of the 2nd gen rear housing will bolt in to the gsl-se engine?
thx for any input
p.s. for those who didn't know what's happended to my engine check the link out
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/oh-man-my-engine-481572/
since gsl-se rear housing is hard to find now
anyone think the rear housing of the 2nd gen rear housing will bolt in to the gsl-se engine?
thx for any input
p.s. for those who didn't know what's happended to my engine check the link out
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/oh-man-my-engine-481572/
#3
FB+FC=F-ME
Itll BOLT up,but the water seals are in the wrong place,so no, it wont function.All 86 and up engines have the water seal grooves in the irons instead of the rotor housings.If you plan on keeping your 13B a 6 port,youll have to find the SE rear plate.
You had the big broken piece right?I wouldnt even attempt to weld it.When you weld cast iron,it isnt a matter of NOT weakening the metal,its a matter of how MUCH you will weaken it.....
Its tough to get right since the casting has air pockets in it which disturb melding of the 2 parts.And theres contraction stresses when cooling.Ask any machine shop,its a nearly impossible task to do perfectly.Personally,Id leave the chunk out.Its only 1 bolt out of 6,and lack of clamping forces near the break will prevent any furthur cracking.Unless your running a super high power engine,it should be fine so long as there isnt any oil leakage from around the filter pad.The break appears to be limited to the bellhousing flange and not the more structural portion of the engine plate.
You had the big broken piece right?I wouldnt even attempt to weld it.When you weld cast iron,it isnt a matter of NOT weakening the metal,its a matter of how MUCH you will weaken it.....
Its tough to get right since the casting has air pockets in it which disturb melding of the 2 parts.And theres contraction stresses when cooling.Ask any machine shop,its a nearly impossible task to do perfectly.Personally,Id leave the chunk out.Its only 1 bolt out of 6,and lack of clamping forces near the break will prevent any furthur cracking.Unless your running a super high power engine,it should be fine so long as there isnt any oil leakage from around the filter pad.The break appears to be limited to the bellhousing flange and not the more structural portion of the engine plate.
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