1stgenNutt

iTrader: (3)

ok i swaped a rear end this weekend in my freinds car . from drums to disks open to lsd. gs to gsl rear end . ok had the disk's turned new axle bearings new pads etc new ebrake cables as well. ok the rearend and calipurs are used . i know about the screw in calipurs. (im double checking my trouble shooting) the car seems to be pulling a trailor . loss of power and slightly heating up. rear smell from brakes. wheels seem to be hot. in the rear . IM thinking adjustment on ebrake or calipurs are hanging . or slides are not fuctioning properly whats your thought's ?.....

1stgenNutt

iTrader: (3)

bump

justint5387

iTrader: (1)

Did you bleed the brakes after installing it?

Dom

Have you adjusted the e-brake at the hand brake handle inside the car?

1stgenNutt

iTrader: (3)

LOL yes i did bleed the brakes. i had to ajust the ebrake out so i could get enough cable to the rear lines . i bet money its the ebrake.

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

sounds like e-brake to me

rotor vs. piston

ebrake... or stuck caliper.

slowautoxr

iTrader: (6)

Make sure the bracket isn't touching the brake rotor.

Rx Seven

iTrader: (12)

where either of the parking brake cable tight when you put them on? IIRC the cable are two different lenghts so you have to make sure you have the right one on the correct side.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Its been a long time since I did one of these swaps but isn't there a difference between the drum and disc bias valve? There might be a residual pressure issue, drums can handle about 10 psi residual pressure to keep shoes out, discs like about 2-3psi. If its not the e brake cables this might be your problem.

PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

just jack up the rear and spin the tires.

feel the rims after driving the car and smelling the burning smell. if they're both hot then its prob e-brake. just one and its prob a stuck caliper

gl

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Jack up the rearend and turn each wheel by hand, there should be very little resistance. If there is, pull the pads and check for glazing, which means they are dragging.

I'm still running the drum pp valve on my lsd/disc swap and have no dragging issues. It could be you you installed the brake cables on the wrong sides, the caliper pistons may be sticking or the bolts holding the calipers may be too long. Look for grooves in the rotors if that's the case.

One thing I discovered recently is the spring inside the pp valve is a different length between the drum and disc pp valves. That may be the only difference between them as the needle itself looks identical between the 2 units. Iirc, the spring in the disc unit is shorter than the drum one. If that's the only difference between the pp valves, then a spring from any disc setup should work, that probably includes all of the 2nd gen pp valves.

One of these days, I'll dig out a 2nd gen pp valve and measure/compare the 3 different springs.

kgray

nope, spring about ~2-3mm longer on the disc prop. valve; I did learn something. lol

1stgenNutt

iTrader: (3)

Ok im still having this problem i check the pp valve( replaced ) adjusted the ebrake
Kinda wondering if the brake hose's could be acting as check valves if there old could they swell and not allow fluid to return but allow fluid to pass under pressure. also could the master cylinder be possibly bad cuaseing this or the ajustment be to far inward on the master cyl . (also replace the calipurs with new ones)

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

I had rubber hoses act up on my wifes van. The caliper seamed to drag and overheat the it would pull because of a cooked pads on one side. I replaced the caliper and noticed as I was bleeding it that it was hard to push the pedal down even with the bleeder OUT. I took the caliper off the hose, tried again. Still hard to push the pedal and fluid barely came out. Replaced hoses and all was good.

Enough fluid would move through with a lot of pressure from the master but it would take its time releasing pressure.