Ok I have had this happen before and I let it go. I would like to fix it this time so looking for the best way to do it right.

I just bought a car from rxtacy3, and the rear end is leaking fluid. I though it might be from the small clunking sound when shifting. So it might not be good.

The question is, so i don't have to do a rear end swap, is is there a way to re-seal the rear end so the it will stop leaking. I guess I could go though and tighten all of the bolts down on it, but if I'm going to jack the car up I would like to re-seal it as well. Any ideas on how to do this? The chunk cannot be removed with out taking out the axles I don't think.

Also would like to add one more thing. What is the thermastat temp supposed to be ..180 or 195, there is even one on rock auto at 165 .. those are degrees btw. Just want to make sure that I get the right one.

This is in no way a reflection on rxtacy3. The motor is sound, found out today the reason why it wouldn't idle is because of a vacum leak on the bottom of the intake... plug it with a spark plug haha...

 

so i take it youve got yourself another running fb? whata re you going to do with your old one?

to fix the rearend leak you could try tightening the bolts and see if that helps. if it doesnt, then youll have to pull the axles, drop the driveshaft and unbolt the 3rd member. you dont have to take it out. just slide it a little away from the rearend housing. then clean the surface of both housings where they touch. after that use red RTV sealant and run it around the whole mounting surface. you dont have to use a lot.

you used a spark plug to plug a vacuum leak in the intake manifold? id find another way to plug it asap. post a pic of where the leak is.

 

Aye, got an '84. Body is in good shape and the motor seems like it as well. Trusted it from Spartanburg, SC to Atlanta, GA. Long haul down I-85.



About the spark plug. The bolt that was in the blue tube fell out on the ride home it appears. At any rate the spark plug fit nicely and it lets the car idle. I know it is not the best of repairs but I still have a little bit of work stopping the over heating issue.

Here is an image:


As far as my plans with the 83 GS are, I'm unsure. I don't have the money to fix the rust but it would also be nice to have a parts car. Though I do not have a please really to store it. Thus I might have to get rid of it. Wife will more than likely decide that for me. At the same time I may swap the motor from the 84 to the 83 and they and do some interior work to the 84 and fix it up and drive the 83 until that is done. I am really unsure right now though.

Also, Anyone have an idea about that temp for the thermostat?

 

180 degree thermostat is right.

Also, about that spark plug. Just get a vauccum cap for it. take the blue tube off and put the vaccum cap on.

 

Thanks twinkletoes. Will get right 2 it.

 

many members suggest only using a mazda OEM thermostat. so you might want to swing by a dealership and pick one up or order it from mazdatrix.

well, if you decide to get rid of that bumper..let me know

 

I think that I will just drill a hole in the t-stat from rockauto. Think that is about the only difference, lets the air escape. If i have problems with that I will go to the dealership. Last time I tried that it was some crazy price and about 6 weeks back order.

 

yeah i read drilling a whole can fix the issue, but im not sure. i wouldnt order from a dealership, id order from mazdatrix.

 

well the one from Rockauto was OE not OEM so should be close just not from Mazda. Prob has the hole in it already.

 

Mazdatrix recommends not using the OE thermostat in some applications because the rubber around the piston deteriorates and can get stuck places it doesn't belong. If your part has rubber around it, you may want to switch brands.

 

Thx for the update. I will look at it when it gets in. Should be in on friday.

edit

did a little bit of looking around and found this image from rockauto. Gates website doesn't say they use rubber of any kind, and they seem to build the ability to allow air to escape into the stat. I will let yall know how it works and report back.

 

i would go with 160 from blackdragonauto.com

depending on your state of weather

180 is standard but in oregon it makes my temp at half way which is not very good...

with 160 my gauge is at 1/4

 

I have to disagree. The engine was designed to run at 180deg. Clearances, viscosity of the recommended oil, passage sizes, etc. were all designed for this temperature, so that's what should be used. Using a cooler thermostat won't reduce the likelihood of overheating. Say the engine reaches 190 deg. due to high ambients and loads. Either thermostat would be fully open at that point, and the engine wouldn't care which one was installed. I can imagine it seems logical that a lower reading than nominal on the temp gauge must be better, but it isn't.