It's looking like the passenger side rear axle bearing needs to be replaced. So, I've purchased two bearings, etc., since I assume one should replace both sides at the same time. I have a 1985 S model, just shy of 80k miles.

By the way, DivinDriver's write up on the actual axle removal - most informative!

Before I start digging into this (new territory for me) I thought I'd ask:

1) I think I know the answer to this one - there is no way to get to rear disc brakes from rear drum brakes without replacing the entire axle, correct?

2) Are there any straightforward upgrades to take into account while doing this? Are better brake lines available? Should I replace the brake lines with OEM (or OEM style) lines?

3) If I find the bearing is so far gone that the right side axle needs to be replaced (assuming I keep drum brakes) - how hard is it going to be for me to find an axle?


Thanks! While I've had the car for four years or so, I'm still very much a noob when it comes to some of these things. That's why I love this forum.

 

1) You'll need to replace the axles.

2) I'd check to see if the brake hoses are cracked when you bend them (like you'd do with fan belts). If not, they're probably OK to use. Teflon aftermarket brake hoses expand less, so they should give you a firmer pedal. I have Teflon hoses on both my cars, but I changed so many other things in the brake systems, I can't tell you how much the hoses alone affected the pedal feel.

3) If you need an axle, you can have one of mine if you pay shipping from MI.

 

Thank you! Hopefully, I won't need it, but it's good to know something is available.

 

It’s possible, I even prefer a drum brake housing on my race car using second gen big brakes, but it is not exactly a simple bolt on job.

 

Hopefully actually starting this soon ... the car needs to be driven. A question - when I go to remove the axles, should the car be in gear or in neutral?

thanks!

 

Doesn't matter. Just pull em out.

 

So, started trying to pull the axle late, but the sun went down. Noticed something, on the passenger side, I have lock washers behind the four nuts that hold the axle flange. But, these aren't present on the driver's side. As far as I know, and can tell, the axles have never been removed before. Any thoughts?

 

Lies! Someone has had the driver side out.

 

Well, I'm embarrassed to say that I actually did have lock washers on the driver's side. I just couldn't feel them through my gloves (and probably the crud back there...)

So ... Brakes are removed, four retaining nuts removed, brake line clip removed and brake line loosened. Apparently I haven't eaten enough Wheaties, because these things aren't budging. Slide hammer from Autozone is the way to go, I assume? I've never used one before, but it seems straight forward. Are there any necessary special attachments for our cars?

thanks.

 

Nothing special, just attach to some nuts screwed into to the axle and slap it good one. It should pop
right out. Theres no retainer clips on these diffs for the axle that need to be worried about.

 

Agreed - I actually just pulled mine last night, slide hammer got them out with ease!


Biggest headache for me is taking apart the drum brakes.....doesn't matter what I do I seem to need to fight those damn springs.......

 

Well, the slide hammer and about 3 taps later ... axles out. I think I have a place that will remove and replace the bearing for me. ("We have to look at it") So, hopefully that'll be done soon.

When it comes to putting the axles back in, is there anything to be concerned about or aware of? Should I change the differential fluid after putting the axles back in? (And what should I use?)

As always, thank you. This forum is great.

 

While you have it up the air, change that fluid. Normally takes 90 weight gear lube. If you have an LSD
you may need a special additive as well. Put the axles back in before filling with fluid too.

 

Revealing my amateur status - I have an 'S', 5-speed. Is this limited slip?

And, I'm seeing 75w-90 and 80w-90 when I search for differential fluid. Is either okay to use? Like should I use synthetic in the differential, and if so, any particular recommendations?

thanks again.

 

S model has an open diff from factory. Only GSL & SE models came with limited slip as oe. 75-90 & 80-90 wt hypoid oil essentially the same. Any brand name product is good,synthetic better but not necessary. No worries about questions,one of reasons site is here. Ask away,lot of good people ready to help here. In the event a limited slip was swapped into your car at some point,an easy check after you get car jacked up and supported before you take wheels off,grab one of rear tires and turn it. If limited slip,the other will turn the same direction. Even better,put car in gear and do same,if limited slip you'll have difficulty turning the tire if at all. If a non limited slip the tire opposite of the one you're turning will turn-the opposite direction...

 

That's helpful, thank you! And it's certainly non-limited slip. I turned the wheels by hand earlier in the week when I initially jacked up the car to start this little project. So, any 75w90 or 80w90 will work, as long as there is no additive for limited slip? Is that correct?

And I appreciate your comment - I feel like I'm asking dumb questions sometimes, but I think it's the only way to learn.

 

Hypoid oil with limited slip additive is more expensive than same without.
Of course if you already had some of it on hand it could be used,it would work fine. If you're planning on changing it along with axle bearing repair,recommend draining it first so it won't be dripping from axle tube ends while axles are out getting bearings replaced. You don't have to,just less messy.
Also recommend replacement of axle seals while everything is apart,even if they weren't leaking,a fair % of the time a leak does occur no matter how careful you are on disassembly/assembly. Happens just from being disturbed after being together for 30+years. It is good practice to do so anytime an axle is removed/replaced. Nothing more aggravating than to have a leak develop here shortly after a repair only to have to go back in and do it 2x.
As far as dumb questions,i'm sure you've heard the only dumb ones are the ones not asked-applies here too . If planning on servicing your own vehicle,resources like the factory service manual & Haynes manual are invaluable.

 

Thanks. And here goes. For my replacement parts, I don't have everything that I need, do I? I think I'm missing the spacer between the backing plate and the bearing?




Bearing set

 

You can reuse the spacers currently on your axle,they're a no wear part and not normally replaced unless somehow damaged. Looks like you have everything needed in your pic there.

 

Excellent, thanks for that! I've ordered new brakes, brake hardware, and brake cylinders, too. I figure they're all 32 years old ...

 

Right path to take,do it all while apart so you're not taking most of what's off now later. Get rear drums machined also makes for a smooth brake pedal.
Axle seals can be pried from housing,there is a seal driver to install the seals,likely able to rent one from Autozone or someplace similar. Correct size piece of wood could be substituted,or a large socket. Seal driver probably best if your first time doing this.
A tip to save some grief later on... on back side of seal behind seal lip is a spring. Pack the void where spring is behind lip to inner side of metal sleeve with heavy bearing grease to keep spring from popping off back side of seal lip while driving in place. Nothing worse than finding a seeping axle seal after a short time,leaking gear oil all over your nice new brakes...not common,happens enough to mention,greasing spring in place is insurance against that.
Start soaking penetrating oil onto brake line fitting at wheel cylinder,after being married to wheel cylinder for this amount of time may be reluctant to loosen. Give some time to let penetrant soak in applying 2x not a waste of time. Use a flare nut/line wrench on brake line fitting to get the best bite and least chance of rounding off hex on fitting(look at size you need,possible to rent one of these also) may crack right loose or have line rusted to inside of fitting. If this occurs,the nut/fitting turns slightly then starts twisting the brake line and will kink/crush/snap line off. The job just got more complicated...to prevent this,work wrench back and forth(more penetrant) and watch/feel for fitting to break loose from line. You may see it but certainly will be much less tension on nut when does break free. Lastly,heat may be necessary to do this. You want to save the fitting/brake line if possible. Not the end of the world if you can't,just have to make or get a new one made. Back when these cars were made,the metal used for the brake lines was of very good quality(compared to modern cars) and not uncommon for them to be in excellent condition even now.

 

This is like Déjà vu, I am doing this job in parallel to you (currently getting wheel bearings replaced).


Biggest advice I can give you - Whatever you do - do not break the hand brake lines that go into the drums!!! I have been searching tirelessly for replacements with no success!


They will come out with penetrant and the use of a drift. Just be sure to take out the retaining clip, that's all that holds them to the drum other than rust!

Tom

 

If you do round off the brake line nuts know that a vise-grips can be used to break them loose. Even
using the proper tools and heat and penetrant I've had to resort to vise-grips a few times. If you are
careful you won't mess up the nuts much and be able reuse but replacement is best. That would entail
using a double flaring tool to add a new nut to the existing line after cutting it off.

 

You guys are great.

I did successfully get the axles out, and as best I can tell, I didn't destroy any brake lines or the parking brake cable.

I'm now looking for a machine shop to remove/install the bearings. Guess I should take the drums, too? Once the brake parts get here, I'll be trying to put it all back together.

I'd never attempted this without the help and encouragement here. Thanks for that!

 

Any good automotive repair shop should be able to handle both those requests in an hour or two,inquire where you take your other vehicles for servicing. Make sure whoever does the job is aware it's an old car some parts aren't readily available and take care with them.