Frogman

Hello, im attempting to remove the rear axle bearings but I have no idea how to go about it and I'm scared to damage things by using a hammer( rubber mallet) should I just take it to an auto shop?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The factory service manual says to use a grinder on the bearing collar until .5mm remain then to use a chisel. It says to be careful not to score the axle. I'd leave a little more myself to be safe.

Frogman

Oh gosh, sigh I'm deathly scared of taking a grinder to that since knowing me, i'll probably mar the axle . But also knowing me, I don't trust a mechanic to do that so I guess il just sack up and put my safety glasses on. This started as changing the brakes but since I'm already down here might as well get rid of that awful " whowhowhowsh" sound that comes from the right rear axle. A bad bearing if I ever heard one. Now I also don't own a press but I figure shops will charge me 20$ do do that,

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Just let a shop take it off. Take pics before and measure locations to ensure the collar and bearing are put on right.

If I had to do it, it would be an excuse to buy a press.

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

I have done allot of these. Using a chisel, strike the collar on opposite sides. The idea is to cause the collar to oval on the shaft so that it is not as tight. Grinding it first would make this easier....never thought of that approach. You should be able to avoid axle and remember the bearing is coming off so don't sweat it if the grinder/chisel hits it. We just beat the hell out of them and it can be a real work out.

You'll need a press to get the original bearing and collar off. When you reassemble, press the bearing and collar on separately. Don't forget to put the backing plate/axle retainer on BEFORE you press on the bearing.

Or....pay a shop to do it! The axle bearings come off and go on just like an 8"-9" Ford so any machine shop-repair shop worth it's salt should know how to do this.

For the replacement bearings use an recognized name brand - National, Timken, SKF, or Beck Arnley etc. Always replace the axle seal. Rock Auto seems to have this stuff in stock most of the time and good prices.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Good advice from everyone. If you don't have access to a trusted shop or press, you can use a large iron pipe. It can be had with an inner dimension very close to the axle diameter at the bearing end. Then you can just slam the pipe down over the axle to drive things home. Its not pretty but it works, Thats how I did mine many years ago. In fact I need to build a new rear end as mine is starting to make a lot of noise.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

I did this cringy video a few years ago, could help you out. I ground the bearings down and cracked them off with a chisel - worked just fine for me.

Frogman

haha, I saw that before I posted the thread up, good stuff! Also turns out the sound was just a bad Drum brake job !

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Glad to hear that you saw it! I need to get back on the video train here...I have intense plans to up the quality exponentially and start building a backlog so I'm not always working behind the gun.
I just updated my build thread for the first time in almost 2 whole years. Time flies when you're in college!

Best of luck with whatever route you choose, I'm sure you'll get it sorted out just fine.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

I always use a trusted machine shop. They've done several sets for me over the years and it saves me a lot of frustration.

UnregisteredSA22C

I just went to canadian tire - not even a specialty shop. They put the new bearings on as well and it was pretty cheap! Not worth the stress of hammering on the wrong spot or messing up my new bearings.