ShayMK

Hey guys, did the S5 swap in my FB now the headlights and motors won't work. Is there a way to re-wire them into a relay or something? Can either be through the relay or through the stock switch, either way is fine.
Thanks in advance,
Shay

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

You could be more specific on what you did to the wiring when putting the S5 stuff in. We need more information. You could always check out the factory wiring diagram to ensure you didn't hose stuff up. It's kind of hard for us to give advice without knowing/seeing how you jacked things up.

flight_of_pain

I notice that everyone that asks a question lately has been getting jumped by the old guys, which in turn causes the new guy to start swinging his purse, its like watching old ladies at the mall FFS.

ShayMK, your question and description is vague, if you had posted a decent amount of info about what you want and what you actually have, the responses would have been much nicer.

Go read the electrical section of the manual and look at it long and hard (foxed.ca). The lighting circuit is a grand total of about 4 wires. I know this because i have a standalone and rewired the whole front of the car... it's not rocket science. The best way to go in my opinion is to trigger high amp relays with the stock wiring from the column switch, then allow those relays to power the lights themselves. Running all the amperage for those lights through the switch itself was a cost saving measure for mazda. While it may be adequate, you will see a noticeable difference in brightness, even with the stock bulbs, by adding relays to those circuits.

Isaac

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha SERIOUSLY! And watch out, because if you stand up for the newbs then the mods will come in and lock the thread and move it to the "shitty thread section".

You should be able to run the stock headlight harness - thats how mine is wired with an S5 transplant.

flight_of_pain nailed it - use the relays. I'm going to be wire-tucking the bay here soon, and relays for the headlights are top priority. My understanding is that the headlights themselves are powered through the steering column! The battery is RIGHT there, yet there's an extra 7 feet of wire and a little **** on the column that controls them. Yikes.

Same goes for the power windows (for those that have them) - the relay method is THE way to go.

flight_of_pain do you have a suggestion for relays? I may just order some up to make it that much more likely to happen during the tuck

flight_of_pain

Im guessing he hacked up the stock harness, either way it is cake to re-wire.

I like the sealed 40a relays from parts express, i buy those things in bulk, and use them for all sorts of things Order sockets while you are at it, makes wiring them so much nicer.

12 VDC Waterproof 5-Pin Relay SPDT 30/40A with Metal Bracket 330-079

Isaac

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

So when re-wiring, what sort of wire do you use and whats your preferred connection method (ie soldering, crimping, etc?) I'm planning on just straight black half-way through each stock wire to extend the harness (for the tuck) with crimped connections and the stock plugs on either end. Will the all-black wires **** me off down the road? My thought is if i crimp them one at a time, and the ends still have stock coloring, I should be safe. Was thinking of getting massive spool from Amazon - as local parts stores want my left kidney in exchange for 6 feet of wire. NFW man.

When you say order sockets - does that just mean a plug that fits those relays specifically? Pardon my ignorance

I'm also wondering if those relays would be the ones to use for the power windows as described in this tutorial:
http://web.archive.org/web/200505170...r_windows.html

The author simply states "Bosch-type relays w/ NO and NC contacts (*Not* driving light relays)". Same same?

flight_of_pain

A proper crimp is superior to soldering in an automotive environment IMO. As far as wire goes, I am always parting out a mazda or subaru, so i keep a few harnesses around to scavenge proper automotive wire from. I would try to persuade you away from doing them all in black, I had to fix a bunch of electrical gremlins on a track car a few years ago that the guy wired in all black, I have never wanted to kick someone so hard in my life.

Yes, those relays will work, sockets are below:
12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket For Bosch Type Relay 330-075

Isaac

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Hey, Ray was just kidding around and yeah your description was a bit lacking. Get a sense of
humor.

I used relays on my headlights, ignition and fuel pump. Made a big difference everywhere.

The headlights were done with the BD kit. See my thread here https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-arch...ight=headlight.

The ignition and fuel pump were done by just getting a couple of 30amp relays and hooking
them up. I always use crimp connections, easier and faster than solder and if done right they
hold up just fine.

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Nice write-up! Thanks for the link. Around here I do most of my driving at night as its dark so dern early, and am reminded daily how sub-par these sylvania sealed beams are.

On my last 2 FB's I had the Hella headlights - and was quite underwhelmed by them - especially for the price. I'm looking at the IPF's for this time around:
IPF high output head light, H4.

IPF also makes a harness - but probably wouldn't be as plug-and-play as that BD unit seems to be.

~Geoff

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Thread cleaned up.

Actually, this is like the first or second time I've had to moderate a thread in the 1st gen section since becoming a mod several years ago.

I thought the 1st gen Technical section was a little more mature and self policing than this.



Actually, I may be back in here a lot more often once spring starts up. After wrecking my FB back in 2001, I may finally be back in the game with an all stock, Nikki carbureted, 12A powered FB.

I've just gotta find me a good Nomex suit and an SA rated helmet.