tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

Hi,

I am part way through finishing up he install of the RB streetport exhaust on my 82 FB.

The original owner had a very poor quality exhaust installed so it was time for it to go.... it was made up by some muffler shop and had two cats fed by the air pump and some sort of header.

I bought my RB system used so I am missing the supplied hardware and the only thing that isn't clear is how the center section hangs from the tranny.

RB apparently supplies a strap to hang the system from one of the two holes I can see on the side of the tranny. The lugs are one the side of the tranny with a very small clearance to access through the heat shield assy.

Does anybody have install pics that show this?

I have searched quite a bit for pics but don't have anything that shows it.


Other than that everything else I have figured out how to hang.. the three muffler hangers and the aft hanger for the center section are good.

Pics to follow once install is completed.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You can get away without the hanger from the tranny. I have mine mounted that way.

The tranny normally has a bolted on mounting plate that will stick out from the side of the tranny
where those 2 holes are. A strap then would go from that mount down to the exhaust. The RB
SP has some threaded holes in the plate between the front presiliencer and the other front
pipe, I think it would get strapped to it there.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I tried it once and end up fighting it because it causes a misalignment, so I removed it.

Think of it this way. The header supports the front half of the center section while the rear hanger supports the rear half.

I think RB was going for an idea for when you remove the header, the center section has something holding it up. Kinda like how the OEM rubber donuts were supposed to support the stock center section on those two long hooks, which the RB center section lacks (thank goodness as they look kinda dumb in my not humble opinion). But I would think if you posess the ability and tools (floor jack & jackstands) to jack up the car and remove the header, you also probably have a spare scizzor jack and a 2x4 kicking around.

Another option is go ahead and install the steel bracket to the tranny but leave it unbolted to the center section so if you ever need to pull the header, you have a nice bracket hanging down that's easy to make use of. But don't keep it bolted up when you go to install the header because you'll fight it.

tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

Ok great advice guys.

So my plan will be to bolt the header to the center section and carefully get the header onto the engine studs then hang it at the rear with the rubber hanger just before the muffler flange just as RB intended.

So as Jeff says, muffler has its own rubber supports and the header/center section assy is supported at two points... one at engine/header joint and one at rear (rubber hanger).

My worry was that the header/center section assy is pretty heavy and I did not want to placing a large load on the engine but if you guys are running like that it should be fine.

I may make a aluminum strap and bolt it to the tranny so I have the option if I need it. Can bend and drill in situ to bolt to the center section.

I will do this tonight and see how everything sits and then probably run with it!

I don't want to have to take this thing on and off! Wish I had a lift as usual.

Thanks

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You should install it as three pieces. It sucks fighting to get the header on the studs when it's bolted to the center section.

Aslo don't leave your aluminum hanger hooked up because vibrations and engine/trans movement along with exhaust heat expansion will fatigue and break the hanger. It needs some kind of rubber isolation. And you klnow what heat does to rubber. That's why I don't use anything to support the front of the center section other than a header or a 2x4 and a scizzor jack. I also don't need a lift. Just four jack stands.

tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

Ok right on.

I was going to bolt up the header and center section as one assy as it looked like tightening the top 3 header/center section bolts would be too difficult with no clearance.


I'll give it a shot.

Thanks again

LongDuck

Listen to Jeff's advice here about mount-up and the hanger you're proposing - he knows what he's talking about.

Another trick I use is to get the front of the header up where it needs to go, past the tie rod and let it sit there while you jimmy the collector studs onto the tailpipe, and just let it hang loosely while you line up the header to the engine (don't forget your gasket). Then, before you go and tighten everything up - get some 2x4's and an extra jack and place the jack under the center section of the exhaust. GENTLY jack the presilencer(s) and everything up until it's tight against the bottom of the car, and THEN tighten the header nuts and the rear collector to tailpipe nuts. This ensures the exhaust system has the most clearance to the ground and tends to stay put over time.

I have emissions testing in my state, so I swap the stock -SE exhaust system out every other year for the RB -SE header/presilencer and have gotten pretty good at it over time. The stock system has lasted as long as it has partly because it's only on the car for about 2 weeks out of every 2 years of driving!

tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

Great advice guys.

Followed all of this and the install went very smoothly tonight.

Test drive was successful, only thing to tweak is part of the heat shield needs a bit more clearance with the center section.

We used the 2x4 under the center section to support it on the jack stands and raised it to align with the header that was already loosely bolted in place. Then it was a matter of mating the muffler flange and tightening everything down.

Car sounds much better and has a noticeable improvement in power and driveability.

I have a freshly rebuilt streetported 12A and RB dellorto in the basement but will run this setup with my stock 67k mile engine for now!

The car still makes a noise (engine) that I cannot narrow down. Once I properly delete the airpump I will investigate further.

Thanks!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Right, you gotta hammer part of the heat shield under the car on some years (84-85) so the front presilencer won't hit it.

That's more or less how I installed mine.

Yep, that's the long primary effect of enhanced low end torque but also more high end power too. It's just a great system over all. More power than a short collected in any configuration and more power than stock. Sounds better too.

Forget the dellorto. They are boring what with only 2bbls and too small for a streetport. RB recommended the 48mm for a stockported 13B (12A size ports) and did not recommend it for 74 spec ports on the REPU engines or any other 13B with porting. They also didn't recommend it for a streetported 12A. You'll be losing power if you follow through. Just ask t_g_farrell who drove a dell for 20 years and only recently got into modded Nikkis, and wouldn't go back.

I had a Dellorto about ten years ago. I tried it in my REPU that had a mild streetport. It only had slightly more off idle power compared to a stock Hitachi carb. Both were very gutless otherwise. These Hitachis are roughly the same size as a stock Nikki (both have 20mm venturis) so they can be compared. Now this REPU has a different engine ported to 74 spec and a hogged out Nikki. I sold the dellorto lol.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

The Dell sounds really good but the nikki kicks ***!