After the whole "my car is on fire" debacle, I've decided to go full RB exhaust from stem to stern. The question I have now is intimated in the title of this post: Do I go long primary or short primary? My exhaust ports are stock and I have no real intentions of changing that, but it sounds like there are some advantages to "going long". Is the extra $300 or so worth it as far as power band, ease of install, and exhaust tone are concerned?

-Jay

 

In addition to the RB short primary box set you need to get an OE Mazda connecting pipe to make it all connect together. Yours might still be solid and usable, but if not a new one from Mazda, MazdaTrix, etc is about $185. So after that It's only about $100 difference. I got the single pipe (short primary) kit and wish I had gotten the dual-pipe streetport kit instead. For slightly more $ you get better flow and two pre-silencers (one for each rotor). Supposed to sound mellower.

 

Do it,there will be no regrets. Streetport system is superior to single pipe system in every way. Installation is straightforward. There will be some carb adjustments to mixture and idle speed. Be sure to replace all exhaust system hangers to keep system tight to body.

 

Yes

 

Long primary for the win! Do people even say that anymore?

Note: the short collected version requires you to reuse the stock midpipe. Not recommended. Especially since yours burned up already. The short collected makes less power everywhere too.

 

You all talked me into it. I've placed my preorder from RB. Very much looking forward to getting her back on the road.

So let's talk exhaust hangers... Any issues with re-using what I already have? Do I really have to buy all new ones?

 

1) They stretch as they age.
2) Streetport system is heavier than stock or single RB system and will test hangers. System needs to hug tight to undercarriage for proper ground clearance.
3) Have installed several of these systems and have learned to have new hangers on hand as at least one is too stretched to be of use.
4) Have not had much success using aftermarket hangers.

 

New hangers all around. Also when installing it keep it all loosely bolted including the header. Attach the hangers then push it up with a floor jack against the botton of the car and tighten from the front to the back. When you drop the jack it will fall back down a bit and give you great clearance.

 

Cinch everything up slowly. Don't just tighten one bolt at a time. Also keep an eye on the jack you are using to hold everything up as you proceed. I've had an engine tilt a little as things go together because I didn't pay attention. You might not get it all "neutrally hung" your first time.

 

...and now you've all talked me into new hangers. Do I have to go with the more expensive ones from RB or will the much less expensive RockAuto ones suffice? I already have a RA cart going...

 

Refer to post #7 in your thread.

Check cost of hangers from Mazda dealer.

May be cheaper with noRB markup.
Don’t have part# handy,can post it later from home.

 

I'd appreciate it. Thank you, sir.

 

Old Mazda # N304-40-161A
New Mazda # 1114-40-160

 

That's awesome. Thank you, sir.

Just got a call from Jim at RB and it's ready to ship. I tried to scam a free sticker out of the deal. Hopefully I was successful.

 

I've used the cheaper ones that look like OEM and then just cut some pipe stock I had laying about to make metal liners for the hangers as you see in the OEM ones. Seems to work just fine and a lot cheaper. Walker part no. 35119.

 

Why don’t you press the sleeves out of your old hangers into your replacements?

 

Thats possible as well, sometimes they go missing.