When deleting the rat's nest, what do you do with the wiring harness for the vacuum solenoid? Also, do I need the purge valve? I bought a junker FB out of a side yard, and this guy either had no money or no idea what he was doing, so I'm basically finishing the mess he created.
Edit: Don't know if this is important, but I have stripped carburetor

 

figuring out what the previous guy did is par for the course, people do strange things to cars...

the purge valve is nice to keep, as is the vacuum advance solenoid, however if you're missing everything, then i guess you have to do without.

the harness will need some things plugged in, and the rest can just be tucked away. or you can pull the harness and unwrap it, de-pin the wires you're not using, and then wrap it back up. more work than its worth.

plan C would be to find a vacuum rack and just put it all back, it is tidy and reliable and ultimately less work

 

I went the de-pinning route on mine - makes it looks a bit cleaner in my opinion. The only things I kept are the vacuum advance (sans the solenoid) and the purge valve.

I'd like to find a better solution to the purge valve though because it's the only reason I still have the whole metal tube rack in place. Surely there's some universal solution that could be routed more cleanly? Not trying to steal your thread but the question is on topic so... hope it's fine? Has anyone come up with a good, clean pcv solution that still prevents lung mustard in the filler neck? I did some looking a while back but never found anything definite.

Louis, with a stripped carb you probably don't want to try reinstalling a complete nest. I run a hogged Nikki and I try to keep the nest to a minimum for easier trouble shooting. Also consider that my car is an SA with a faulty computer, a very minimal emissions system from factory, and an FB drivetrain swap, so I had a few more reasons for ditching it than just simplicity.