ok so yesturday and last night i removed my old nikki carb, intake manifold and exhaust. we managed to get the new rb exhaust on with no problems after alot of beating the crap out of the old exhaust lol i decided to wait a few days before putting on the new oer carb because of the rats nest (not enough room) so im looking for any info you can give me about removing the rats nest what worked what didnt etc. any links that might help would be awsome to i found the mazda speed tutorial and im wondering is that the best way to do it.? thanks
~E

 

AFAIK yes.

 

The Mazda Speed Tutorial is great. It's spot-on and that's what I used (more or less). Here's the Rats Nest made SUPER EASY for you. It'll make life better for you after you get started.

 

Timmy- I'm not sure why you would vent your charcoal cannister into your oil.... Seems to me like bad mojo.

 

if you leave out the a/c seloniod will the ac system still work?

whats its role?

 

The a/c solenoid raises the idle when the a/c compressor is used. Otherwise you are going to have stalling problems. Basically, it is a simple solenoid that opens up when 12v is applied. This allows vacuum from the manifold to pull a vacuum operated lever on the backside of your carb, which pulls up the throttle linkage to raise the idle.

 

The charcoal canister pulls a stronger vacuum pressure than the oil line, so you dont have to worry about pulling anything into the oil.

 

so what kind of side effects am i looking at for removing the rats nest, will i increase in any power either way its all gotta go just wondering if there are any problems i may run into after its gone

 

The canister is not pulling any vac, the carb is. As long as the vapors don't pool on the filler neck on the way to the carb, it may work.

 

Side effects:

Won't pass emmisions
Won't make more power
Idle needs to be bumped up to use AC
Cleans up engine bay
Eliminates sources of vacuum leaks.

 

in my case my car ran better, it dosnt smell as bad (like a lawn mower), and i dosnt backfire anymore (which makes me depressed....long story short....i got my car banned from school grounds for a short time and got my car searched at school because they thought i had fireworks or a gun.....and i used to ride around the tight city streets and get the ladies attention and here the backfire echo for minutes!!)

everybody says other wise to this but this is what my car did when i took my rats nest off

 

Thanks for cleaning that up for me Scott. I recall thinking the that it might be a bad idea too, but when I put my finger over top the canister line, it sucked my finger to the nipple, so I figured vacuum? In any case - to this point, it has caused me no ill effects - and my car seems to run much better without the RN.

 

Not sure if I cleared anything up. I, personaly, would move the tee so that the vacuum was not pulling through the filler neck, but from both the canister and the neck. That eliminates the vapor path into the crankcase and the possibility of oil dilution..

 

If you look on page 254 and 255 of the Haynes manual and follow the hose routing, it is just like the drawing^(mine btw), with a tee between the filler neck and bowl/air vent, also the hose from the block to the charcoal can. Although, that doesn't mean it's right.
It's also what I got from the Tutorial.

 

I always wondered who to thank for that drawing. GJ man.

 

Thanks, I was doing some work on my car and wanted to make sure I put it back the way it was, so I did a quick drawing. Saw how simple it made it look, and made a better one to post on here.

 

dont mean to hijack, but what if I dont have AC? What part of that wonderful drawing can I skip?

 

I ran a line from the charcoal cannister to the base of the carb for vacuum. Then another line from the base to the oil filler neck, to keep that under vacuum as well (eliminates the lung mustard). Haven't had any issues with it set up that way...