Here is the shroud I promised https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/did-some-mods-over-week-some-fabing-cai-efans-so-535131/

 

As far as the question about how to wire in an e-fan, I found it best to use a relay that is switched by the ignition on position, then have the power for the fan come directly from the battery, or in my case, the FC engine bay fuse block.

When I first put an e-fan in my FC, I thought I would be smart and wire it directly to the battery, with a thermostat, no relay. The idea being that the fan would cool down the engine bay after I shut the car off. The day after I did the install, I had a dead battery, which as fairly new at the time. My good idea, wasn't. Day2, it was rewired with a switched relay.

 

Hmm trochoid. I am running a switched relay directly to the battery with a thermo switch. The AC also switches the relay on. The other fan is pulling all the time power from the Philips screw in the fuse box and switch from the coil assembly.

My theory was cool all with AC, cool one when car is turned off to bring temps down and cool one 50% oil 50% rad all the time for traffic since we have no speed sensor.

Both fans use separate relays.

 

Ice, do either of your fans continue after the the engine is off and the key removed? That was my how I first had mine setup and it drained the battery. I don't remember if the + coil is hot with the key off or not, but it can be used to trigger relays. I would use the trailing coil coil on the FBs so as not to reduce current flow, if it even would.

Not sure what you are reffering too with the speed sensor.

 

Yes the RAD only fan runs directly from the battery with a temp switch. So it only runs with car off while rad is above 180F. The other fan on the coil only runs when the key is ON.

The speed sensor was about the lower fan ON power only. Saying I ran it to the coil to run when key is ON because there is no speed sensor you could triger into to come on say like below 40mph or something.

 

I'll be curious to see if your battery stays up. As far as a speed sensor, I would use a thermo switch instead. Cooling will be more accurate on an as needed basis that way.

 

I'm tripping my relay off of the coil power, but the power itself comes straight from the battery. The fan will not run unless the ignition is on that way.

 

I thought I'd come back and add that after about 1,500km of round trip into NY and back, my rad works great and so does the e-fan.

I've got the e-fan on a temp sensor, and the temp sensor still gets its power direct from a non-switched source (one of the fuses on my new FC Fuse block). I just tweaked with the sensor until the fan only came on when it was needed. Now it doesn't run for more than a minute when the car's off (and usually doesn't even run at all when the car's off, only when it's been really hot like stop-n-go traffic).

All in all, I'm very happy with the whole setup and just wanted to let you guys know that with the temp sensor you don't have to worry about excess power drain as long as you tweak with it a bit.

Jon

 

Hey Jon, where did you get your radiator rebuilt, and how much did it set you back? (somewhere local? ) ...it looks like they did a really good job.

Glad to hear you got it working!

Matt

 

I need some advice guys.

I'm in the middle of overhaulin my 82, a lot of small things are being done to the car a.t.m. The car always takes FOREVER to warm-up and the electronic idle control is set at 3k rpm til it warms up, still takes at LEAST 10 mins. the other day it peaked a little over 85 when I took the 7 out and the car ran warmer than usual, more than the half mark.

Should I consider switching to an electric fan to get rid of all the problems? I'm honestly considering it because it makes the engine bay look so much cleaner, and it sounds like I can solve my problems with it.

Any suggestions?

 

Find out why it take so long to warm up before changing the fan. It may be such that the thermocouple on the fan has gone out and the fan is on all the time, thus the extended warmup. Don't count on it. Are you running a Mazda thermostat?

If you are running a non-oem thermostat or none at all, that may explain both the extended warmups and higher operating temps.

 

Dominion Radiator on Gladstone, and it cost me $240ish

Jon

 

To let you know I redid my setup and made a new shroud alot nicer.

My new setup no longer cooled enough in realy hot parked weather. It overheated in mcdonalds drive through but I got it back down when I drove off and put my heater on.

But I never put my old setup through as much exstream.

PS the relays are working great no they dont drain the batt. It spun to long when off so I switched it over to coil switch for power as my temp switch is fixed like 180 in the RAD. The other fan runs a sepret relay AC switched.