Rack and Pinion. Am I on to something?
10-02-14, 06:03 AM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Rack and Pinion. Am I on to something?
So Ive been really thinking on installing a steering rack into my car, the same rack that ReSpeed used. The Mustang 2, correct? I need to mount the rack behind the cross member cause of an engine swap that's soon to happen.
I would weld mounts onto the cross member for the rack to bolt on to. Being in the same location as the current steering link, I wouldn't need to do anything with the tie rods, right? just bolt right up. Then use universal joints to connect it to the steeling column.
Am I on to something or not? I feel as if im missing something, cause it seems to simple.
I would weld mounts onto the cross member for the rack to bolt on to. Being in the same location as the current steering link, I wouldn't need to do anything with the tie rods, right? just bolt right up. Then use universal joints to connect it to the steeling column.
Am I on to something or not? I feel as if im missing something, cause it seems to simple.
10-02-14, 08:09 AM
#2
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
If it was that easy everyone would have done it by now. Take a close look at the ReSpeed
solution to get ideas. BTW do not copy what CP Racing did as that was crap from what I
understand.
solution to get ideas. BTW do not copy what CP Racing did as that was crap from what I
understand.
10-02-14, 01:59 PM
#3
The rack that Re-speed used is actually for a Fox Body mustang (79-93) and is a "front steer" setup, meaning it goes in front of the axle center line. If you move that rack to behind the axle center line it'll steer backwards!
You would need to find a Rear-steer rack for this to work - AE86 corolla, a bunch of Honda's over the years, old VW's (which is what CP racing used) plenty of other stuff.
Other examples of front steer racks you CAN'T use in the fashion your describing - FC/FD, Miatas, Most Subaru's... So don't bother looking at them
If you can weld/fabricate things it's certainly do-able, but you need to make sure you have a rack that will have enough travel to go full lock, and you need to make sure the u-joints on the steering column aren't going to bind - both of which were problems that cp racing had...
You would need to find a Rear-steer rack for this to work - AE86 corolla, a bunch of Honda's over the years, old VW's (which is what CP racing used) plenty of other stuff.
Other examples of front steer racks you CAN'T use in the fashion your describing - FC/FD, Miatas, Most Subaru's... So don't bother looking at them
If you can weld/fabricate things it's certainly do-able, but you need to make sure you have a rack that will have enough travel to go full lock, and you need to make sure the u-joints on the steering column aren't going to bind - both of which were problems that cp racing had...
Last edited by 82transam; 10-02-14 at 02:01 PM.
10-02-14, 02:19 PM
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
I just read through a very old thread on the CP rack and its biggest problem was binding up. Which was caused by the shaft on the rack being too far centered in the car, which put the Ujoints at a much greater angle then they should be.
Ive found this rack, its for an 89 crx. its got mounting brackets and the shaft looks to be far enough over that it just might be perfect.
(If links are not welcome here, feel free to delete it )
Ive found this rack, its for an 89 crx. its got mounting brackets and the shaft looks to be far enough over that it just might be perfect.
(If links are not welcome here, feel free to delete it )
10-13-14, 07:49 PM
#7
I am doing mine now
I used a 1986 civic rack that looks a lot like the unit listed in the link above
shorted the rack by 3/4'' to get the tie rod ends pivoting at the same location as the lower control arms
look at the pic in the above link, you can see the threaded tie rod ends are too long, so I bought an m12x1.25 die and threaded the rod down 2 more inches so I can cut 2'' off the end to get them to the right length, I will use heim joints because the civic rod ends are not the right taper.
I still need to machine up some clamps to attach to the lower x member
I used a 1986 civic rack that looks a lot like the unit listed in the link above
shorted the rack by 3/4'' to get the tie rod ends pivoting at the same location as the lower control arms
look at the pic in the above link, you can see the threaded tie rod ends are too long, so I bought an m12x1.25 die and threaded the rod down 2 more inches so I can cut 2'' off the end to get them to the right length, I will use heim joints because the civic rod ends are not the right taper.
I still need to machine up some clamps to attach to the lower x member
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10-13-14, 08:26 PM
#8
Interested to see how this works out for you. Keep us posted.
I am doing mine now I used a 1986 civic rack that looks a lot like the unit listed in the link above shorted the rack by 3/4'' to get the tie rod ends pivoting at the same location as the lower control arms look at the pic in the above link, you can see the threaded tie rod ends are too long, so I bought an m12x1.25 die and threaded the rod down 2 more inches so I can cut 2'' off the end to get them to the right length, I will use heim joints because the civic rod ends are not the right taper. I still need to machine up some clamps to attach to the lower x member
10-14-14, 09:15 AM
#10
FB=OS Giken LSD
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I have the ReSpeed rack in mine if you need pictures of anything. Ironically, I later went to a five lug setup so I probably could have saved money going with the FC subframe...
10-14-14, 03:31 PM
#13
#garageguybuild
iTrader: (32)
I am doing mine now
I used a 1986 civic rack that looks a lot like the unit listed in the link above
shorted the rack by 3/4'' to get the tie rod ends pivoting at the same location as the lower control arms
look at the pic in the above link, you can see the threaded tie rod ends are too long, so I bought an m12x1.25 die and threaded the rod down 2 more inches so I can cut 2'' off the end to get them to the right length, I will use heim joints because the civic rod ends are not the right taper.
I still need to machine up some clamps to attach to the lower x member
I used a 1986 civic rack that looks a lot like the unit listed in the link above
shorted the rack by 3/4'' to get the tie rod ends pivoting at the same location as the lower control arms
look at the pic in the above link, you can see the threaded tie rod ends are too long, so I bought an m12x1.25 die and threaded the rod down 2 more inches so I can cut 2'' off the end to get them to the right length, I will use heim joints because the civic rod ends are not the right taper.
I still need to machine up some clamps to attach to the lower x member
post some pics when you can
.
10-14-14, 06:17 PM
#14
Please no haters
I have never died (obviously) on any of my other projects so I trust my own skills, the photo's are for entertainment only.
Thanks
Rick
I disassembled the rack and cut it down so the inner tie rod ends are the same distance as the lower control arms
Welded it back up, my TIG is a little rusty but it will hold
a pre weld shot
the out tie rod ends are too long, the nut is in the original location, now I will be able to shorten them up
just about all together
I have a lot of irons in the fire so it will be a while before I get back to this
I have never died (obviously) on any of my other projects so I trust my own skills, the photo's are for entertainment only.
Thanks
Rick
I disassembled the rack and cut it down so the inner tie rod ends are the same distance as the lower control arms
Welded it back up, my TIG is a little rusty but it will hold
a pre weld shot
the out tie rod ends are too long, the nut is in the original location, now I will be able to shorten them up
just about all together
I have a lot of irons in the fire so it will be a while before I get back to this
10-15-14, 09:37 PM
#16
yes I shortened the inner rod and body, in hind site I should have taken the inner rod to the shop and cut the end off and drilled and taped it and really would 3/4'' really be noticeable?.... just thread the outer rods and cut to length/I wish full hydro was street legal, it works great on my rock crawler
10-18-14, 06:10 AM
#19
Full Member
I completed a rack conversion on my RHD Gen 1 RX7 a year or so ago, lots of detail here:
AusRotary.com ? View topic - Rack and Pinion conversion, Gen 1 rx7 transplant.
AusRotary.com ? View topic - Rack and Pinion conversion, Gen 1 rx7 transplant.
10-26-14, 10:16 PM
#20
Full Member
Thread Starter
Am I under thinking it?
I was thinking remove everything from stock steering but leave the inner tie rods.
Mount new rack in place
cut new racks inner tie rods and the old ones to mate up. then weld.
Ive got to be missing something?
I was thinking remove everything from stock steering but leave the inner tie rods.
Mount new rack in place
cut new racks inner tie rods and the old ones to mate up. then weld.
Ive got to be missing something?
10-27-14, 09:37 AM
#21
[QUOTE=David Rodak;11822050]cut new racks inner tie rods and the old ones to mate up. then weld.
QUOTE]
I am very confident with my welding but im not sure is would do this. if you sleaved it and left room for adjustment i could see it.
I think your right it is that simple.
have you priced the swivel joints for the steering column, they are lot more than i would have thought, i am going to the salvage yard to get some stock parts to see what i can make work.
QUOTE]
I am very confident with my welding but im not sure is would do this. if you sleaved it and left room for adjustment i could see it.
I think your right it is that simple.
have you priced the swivel joints for the steering column, they are lot more than i would have thought, i am going to the salvage yard to get some stock parts to see what i can make work.
10-27-14, 06:39 PM
#22
Full Member
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=ricsrx;11822203]
I was looking on amazon for the joints. A lot pricier than I thought, but definitely justifiable.
cut new racks inner tie rods and the old ones to mate up. then weld.
QUOTE]
I am very confident with my welding but im not sure is would do this. if you sleaved it and left room for adjustment i could see it.
I think your right it is that simple.
have you priced the swivel joints for the steering column, they are lot more than i would have thought, i am going to the salvage yard to get some stock parts to see what i can make work.
QUOTE]
I am very confident with my welding but im not sure is would do this. if you sleaved it and left room for adjustment i could see it.
I think your right it is that simple.
have you priced the swivel joints for the steering column, they are lot more than i would have thought, i am going to the salvage yard to get some stock parts to see what i can make work.
10-30-14, 10:55 AM
#23
I'm very glad it is not, having experienced catastrophic PS hose failure in heavy traffic in my old '70 LTD back when I was a new driver.
People would have died if that car hadn't had mechanical steering backup. As it was I pulled several muscles wrenching that monster around the turn I had started before the hose blew.
One of my scariest driving memories to this day.
People would have died if that car hadn't had mechanical steering backup. As it was I pulled several muscles wrenching that monster around the turn I had started before the hose blew.
One of my scariest driving memories to this day.
10-30-14, 04:10 PM
#24
I'm very glad it is not, having experienced catastrophic PS hose failure in heavy traffic in my old '70 LTD back when I was a new driver.
People would have died if that car hadn't had mechanical steering backup. As it was I pulled several muscles wrenching that monster around the turn I had started before the hose blew.
One of my scariest driving memories to this day.
People would have died if that car hadn't had mechanical steering backup. As it was I pulled several muscles wrenching that monster around the turn I had started before the hose blew.
One of my scariest driving memories to this day.
03-05-15, 08:26 PM
#25
more progress
well the cross member is done and time to install the rack, due to the 5.0 being installed i had to move the drivers side mount over to clear the oil pan. also the outer rod ends are 2nd gen rx7, they have the correct tread for the honda rack and the correct ends for the 1st gen spindle.
