Yep , tape deforms, stretches.

 

Use a metric tape measure. Wrap it around the pulley. Your mind will be blown when you see the circumference is 360mm. This obviously means 1mm = 1 degree. You can mark the pulley perfectly using the metric tape measure method.

The Yaw masking tape method needs to go the way of the so called ATF trick and other faulty methods that cause harm and don't seem to want to die. We need to stamp them into the ground and make fun of people who continue to parrot them mindlessly. Not directed at you, obviously. I'm just talking about in general.

Every time it comes up on the forum, we need to nip it in the bud like we did the other day when the ATF subject was mentioned. I think we did a good job of it.

Oh and I need to nip the 2nd gen coil debate in the bud next. It isn't as good as we think it is compared to DLIDFIS (and TG's version which is the same) which uses two actual separate coils and two actual separate ignitors vs a single FC ignitor and a single FC coil with dual outlets where the spark energy must be shared. That is a no-no if you want maximum performance instead of ok performance.

Oh, and the same ideas some folks keep having about straight piping a rotary with not enough muffling, or they use too large of pipe diameter which kills velocity and sounds awful with less power than a properly sized and built long primary must be addressed. If peejay's half bridge port can live and breath with an RB long primary, and what rotarygod said about a long primary making power "everywhere" compared to a short collected isn't good enough, take my word for it as well: A long primary is the way to go. It works from a stock port up to at least half BP. Beyond that I don't know because I don't have access nor desire to want to mess with a full BP or a p-port. But then why would anyone want to run one of those on the street?

I also think the obsessive removal of sound deadening is misguided. You lighten the car by only 12 to 25 pounds maybe, but that weight was literally at the lowest point of the car (on the floor, duh) where it might actually do some good, plus your car vibrates and rings more with that stuff gone, leading to potential bolt self-loosening... maybe. Just something to think about. Cars with that stuff removed sound like a coffee can too, which isn't cool in my opinion.

 

I understand your explanation on the masking tape method and I measured it this evening with a cloth measuring tape from my wife's sowing box (with the pulley mounted) my marks doesn't seem very wrong. I'll see if I have the time to take the pulley from the car this weekend and make sure it is correct and compare it with other pulleys I have laying around.

Sunday I'm going to the nurburgring with some friends maybe taking the Rx but the starter is acting up and don't want to be fooling with it when I'm 300+ km from home.

On the coils I think your right two coils will give a better spark than one fc coil that has to share the voltage between the two sparkplugs.

At this stage I'm thinking how to modify the coils to a permenent solution because I would like to get an original as possible look for my car. As the car is pretty rare here in Europe.

I'm pretty pleased how the car performes when I give it a bit more advance on the ignition and I ordered a pair of bur7eq sparkplugs for the leading for that final boost on the ignition and see where it goes from there.

 

Today I'm going to install the BUR7EQ plugs and see how they perform.

Jeff20b I saw on you tube you did a half brigeport I'm curious how that performs horsepower and drive ability wise?

 

Why the BU series? The BR7EQ14 is the "hot" plug for rotary distributor ignition...

 

I've gone for the direct fire ignition so the leading doesn't go thru the cap anymore

 

Which Keihin jets did you get for the 120 and 145?

 

Nvm, I stumbled on your Hitachi jet guide for the nikki, can I just use Hitachi air bleeds and main jets for the nikki I'm building? I'm using the specs you mentioned in this forum.

 

I've been on the dyno today and the result was good. I'm happy with the result.

 

Nice! I need a translation to US units. Whats your setup again?

 

Racingbeat long primary exhaust, moddified Nikki and dlidfis ignition

 

So in units I can understand it looks like your are seeing 132 whp with a nice looking torque that maxes
out at 119 ftlbs. Not bad at all. Makes that 12A feel great doesn't it? I think you can get a few more horses and some extra torque but all dynos are different so its hard to compare.

 

That's a winning combination.

 

It does feel strong and i'm wondering how to perfect it.

I want some new ignitioncoils and wires because the one i run are 30 years old.

It still needs a bigger primary but I'm between sizes 116 that I'm running now and 120 that's too big. The company doesn't have 118.

Maybe i want to try an duct on the intake so it gets cooler air.

 

As Jeff mentioned, your next quest for power should be doing a DFIS ignition upgrade. I bet theres a few
ponies to unlock with that and aggressive timing changes.

 

Already have that. Dual ignition coil directly on the leading sparkplug.

 

132whp on a stock port sounds pretty good to me. Just read through the thread and trying to decide whether I want to do this. The only carb I've ever pulled apart was on my leaf blower LOL.

 

It's 100WHP and 135engineHP

Taking apart the carb isn't that hard as long you keep everything in order.

 

I must have misread the charts (like I could read them LOL). So you easily have another
30+ HP to gain somewhere. Or you just need to tune it better.

 

Yeah, I've seen dyno sheets showing 120 whp with just the long primary exhaust and holley carb. After going through all your efforts with the nikki I'd expect more. The chart says motorvermogen 99.2 Kw which translates to 133 hp. Below it says wielvermogen which google translates to "wheel power" and that is 73.8 Kw or 99 hp.

So I guess you've got 99 whp? That's a lot of effort for minimal gains. We can get that with the long primary exhaust alone.

 

Yeah. mine was dynoed at one point before I went to the RB SP exhaust (Older RE single pipe setup and the Dellorto) and I was getting 134 whp and about 124 on the torque curve. I need to get a
fresh dyno run with the current setup, which I know is just as good and has a much flatter torque curve
due to the intake and nikki.

 

How should i tune it better? On WOT i have a air/fuel ratio of 12.something that should be about right

Maybe i can fiddle about with the ignition timing

But else i would not know how to proceed from here.

 

did you port your intake manifold?

 

No i haven't finished it yet because the opinions don't agree.

Personally i think it would help because of the bigger primary venturies.

I'm starting all over with the tuning of the Nikki. First I'll tune the primaries to see of how they run throughout the revrange. Than I'll connect the secondairies and see what happens.

Also I'll check the sparkplugs an ignition and see if i can check the commpession of the engine (should be alright it has run about 50.000 KM after rebuild)

 

Is there a tutorial on changes that need to be made to the intake for the hogged out Nikki?