Racing water pump? What do I have?
11-13-04, 08:49 AM
#26
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
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Originally Posted by cosmicbang
If you just use a mazda factory race aluminum water pump, the alt mounts on the side instead of the top.
11-13-04, 09:20 AM
#28
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally Posted by Rx7carl
Also the MFR piece is $$$$$. FC housings are next to nothing.
Originally Posted by Pele
Air pump's gotta go there... Stupid VA emissions.
11-13-04, 04:09 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Pele
Wait... That's a 12A housing and a 13B housing with the pumps switched?
**** it, if they're both aluminium housings, why swap em... Just look for the aluminium pump and be done with it.
Sorry for the confusion.. Both housings have been been bead blasted. The 12a cast iron is on the left and the S4 aluminum is on the right.
11-13-04, 04:24 PM
#30
Originally Posted by Pele
Hows about this:
I recently bought an aluminum water pump housing from a 2nd gen RX-7 to bolt on my new half-bridgeport motor. Here are the modifications that are necessary to put one on a 12A motor.
This is the front (water pump) side of the housing. The red circle indicates a hole that needs to be tapped and helicoiled so you can put your alternator bracket there. The threads for the helicoil won't be very deep, but they should hold well enough.
This is the back (motor) side of the housing. The yellow circle is a bolt hole that you must weld up. This is the backside of the hole you helicoiled. It is in the coolant jacket of the engine and will leak coolant out through your alternator bracket mounting hole if it isn't sealed. Make sure whoever welds it up knows how to weld aluminum! The blue circle is a coolant port that will not be used unless you want to plug your first gen choke in. If you want to use the first gen choke-temp-sender you will have to drill the hole out larger and tap threads. Just to the left is a fitting that will not be used. You will need to seal this up before you put coolant in the motor. I plan on using a short piece of hose, some silicone, a bolt, and some hose clamps. As a final note, you will also have to use a 2nd gen water pump, water pump pulley, and alternator bracket. The alternator bracket will need a lot of grinding to clear the distributor.
NOTE: All images and content are stolen without permission. (I assume that should be clear because they are stolen...) If the owner of said content gets word of this and comes here, I give you all credit... In fact, please elaborate, like what year car did the housing come from (1986-1988 or 1989-1991), and which thermostat housing you used, FC or FB? That being said, I am NOT responsible for changes in content. (But please don't change the content. It's really good info...)
Also, what did that pipe, to the left of the blue circle, that needs to be plugged go to in it's original FC engine?
I recently bought an aluminum water pump housing from a 2nd gen RX-7 to bolt on my new half-bridgeport motor. Here are the modifications that are necessary to put one on a 12A motor.
This is the front (water pump) side of the housing. The red circle indicates a hole that needs to be tapped and helicoiled so you can put your alternator bracket there. The threads for the helicoil won't be very deep, but they should hold well enough.
This is the back (motor) side of the housing. The yellow circle is a bolt hole that you must weld up. This is the backside of the hole you helicoiled. It is in the coolant jacket of the engine and will leak coolant out through your alternator bracket mounting hole if it isn't sealed. Make sure whoever welds it up knows how to weld aluminum! The blue circle is a coolant port that will not be used unless you want to plug your first gen choke in. If you want to use the first gen choke-temp-sender you will have to drill the hole out larger and tap threads. Just to the left is a fitting that will not be used. You will need to seal this up before you put coolant in the motor. I plan on using a short piece of hose, some silicone, a bolt, and some hose clamps. As a final note, you will also have to use a 2nd gen water pump, water pump pulley, and alternator bracket. The alternator bracket will need a lot of grinding to clear the distributor.
NOTE: All images and content are stolen without permission. (I assume that should be clear because they are stolen...) If the owner of said content gets word of this and comes here, I give you all credit... In fact, please elaborate, like what year car did the housing come from (1986-1988 or 1989-1991), and which thermostat housing you used, FC or FB? That being said, I am NOT responsible for changes in content. (But please don't change the content. It's really good info...)
Also, what did that pipe, to the left of the blue circle, that needs to be plugged go to in it's original FC engine?
Pele, thanks for the great info.
Since the only accessory I have on my engine is the alternator, I stripped the ECU harness down to 3 wires. Yet the stock electric choke still works with the mikuni. I did't realize that the temp sender on the housing was for the choke. Great.
The extra hose barb, on the S4 housing for coolant, goes to the thermowax on the throttle body for cold start and also warms the BAC. then returns to the block.
I may try using the S4 housing, but not this time around.
Thanks, Scott.
11-13-04, 04:37 PM
#31
Since I didn't have any luck with the water pumps last night, I stayed in the shop til 4/a and prepped the housings for assembly.
The powdercoat is anodized silver and smoke chrome. Looks like for now the water pump gets painted.
Enjoy.
The powdercoat is anodized silver and smoke chrome. Looks like for now the water pump gets painted.
Enjoy.
11-21-04, 11:51 AM
#32
Well I just just finnished installing the alum. FC houseing and was able to use the alum. 12a pump.
Put some JB weld where the blue is, was going to drill a hole there to secure the pump to the houseing better, but decided not to. Probably should have and used that as the alt. adjust bracket mount.
Had to grind the alt. adjust bracket around where it mounts to the new loc. on pump, and also on the side because its closer to the alt.
Could not put the lock washer on because the stud isn't long enough. I think locktite may suffice.
Cut off the original tab for the bracket for looks.
I tried to put the alt. in the airpump location without success, it has clearance problems with the stock intake and carb assembly. Probably not the safest place for it anyway, right under the front of the carb (gas and sparks).
Anyone had success putting the alt. there?
Steve.
Put some JB weld where the blue is, was going to drill a hole there to secure the pump to the houseing better, but decided not to. Probably should have and used that as the alt. adjust bracket mount.
Had to grind the alt. adjust bracket around where it mounts to the new loc. on pump, and also on the side because its closer to the alt.
Could not put the lock washer on because the stud isn't long enough. I think locktite may suffice.
Cut off the original tab for the bracket for looks.
I tried to put the alt. in the airpump location without success, it has clearance problems with the stock intake and carb assembly. Probably not the safest place for it anyway, right under the front of the carb (gas and sparks).
Anyone had success putting the alt. there?
Steve.
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