Racing Beat oil lines and new oil cooler installed couple of weeks back. Have a slow oil drip where oil line enters rear of block. Looking for the torque setting for tightening the brass adapter from Racing Beat that threads in to the actual block of the engine. I have the torque for the Racing Beat couplers themselves and repeated that torque for the adapter, but have not been able to locate the torque for the adapter itself and dont want to just keep tightening. (already broke a couple of things using that method). Just in case details matter... 1981 FB with air oil cooler under radiator not beehive. Thanks!

 

Sounds like you’re referring to the oil cooler lines? Did you use new crush washers?

 

It doesn't take much torque. Just enough so it doesn't leak.

 

By crush washer, is that the simple metal flat washer that came with the adapters that go between the engine block and the oil cooler lines? (My day job is working with full suspension mountain bike systems, and crush washers we use are nylon/plastic). If so, I am 99% sure I did install the washer, but the adapter that is leaking was the most fiddly one to install (the one below the oil filter, towards the rear of the block) and maybe I dropper the washer off the adapter as struggled to get my hand around all the obstacles? I can remove the adapter and check, but would be useful to know what torque I should reinstall to in order to rule out torque as the issue. Or maybe Kansas is the right way to go, just tighten it until it stops leaking? Right now its at 350 inch pounds, as thats the torque for the AN fittings and I figured that would be safe as tightening the AN fitting would torque the adapter to the same amount. Oh, and did use Permatex on the threads.

So... I will remove the adapter and check the washer is in place. Newbie question... does the port in the block that the adapter threads in to sit above the top of the oil level, or do I need to drain the oil before removing. Trying to avoid that as on our fourth oil fill in as many weeks due to some learning the hard way.

 

there should be 2 washers. one between the housing and line end, the other between the line end and bolt.

 

You only use 2 washers with the stock banjo fittings, with the AN adapters you only use one crush washer between the block and adapter then screw the AN fitting directly onto the adapter.

I think the rest has been covered already, first and foremost make sure that the crush washer is actually there, if it is missing you have no hope of sealing. It is always a good idea to use a new crush washer every time you dissemble the fittings, each time you tighten the fittings the washer work hardens and becomes less effective. On the other hand, you can also get some sub par crush washers with some fittings, check for the thickness both radially and axially compared to factory Mazda washers, in general use Mazda crush washers whenever possible.

The proper torque of an AN hose end to adapter is no way related to the torque of an M18 fitting with a crush washer into the block. That said 350 inch pounds is not particularly high for an M18, it is quite possibly that just a little more torque is all you need.

 

MHR... Thanks for the info. One crush washer between adapter and block was where logic and the pieces I have had led me. If I need to source a new crush washer for the 18mm adapter to block interface, do you have a provider and spec / part number?

 

AN fittings? must have missed reading that somewhere. thought this was the stock cooler lines.

 

I think you'll will be good with any AN crush washer in the correct dia,

I am pretty sure I used this for the rear iron:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-999218

If you have a leak there I would first double check that is coming from the rear iron/adaptor and not the AN hose/adaptor.

Then take off the adaptor and inspect the iron surface to make sure it is smooth. Sometimes some rough material can gouge and drag a bit of the washers material. You might see that in the washer face.


And ya you are on the right track, definitely do not overtighten any of these!! If you have no leaks at the cooler end of things you've done a good job!

Edit- See your Permatex comment, that can't hurt much unless it gets in your oil system, but it wont help at all. These straight thread adaptors rely 100% on the face to face crush washer seal. Permatex is not stopping 80psi of hot oil. It will find its way out of anything, kind of like brake fluid! I would say to clean all of it up and install dry if you end up replacing the washer.

 

Got it. I am assuming adapter to iron is where the issue is at as thats the only interface I dont have a torque setting for, and the only interface that involves a part that is not new. (Thank you Mr Occam and your handy razor). Appreciate the part link.

 

****** oil leaks ... i use this on oil pan bolts and oil cooler fittings apply it both sides of the crush washers and threads... my cars never leaks .. https://www.permatex.com/products/th...hread-sealant/