Racers! Alignment Help Please!
02-08-10, 09:30 AM
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FB=OS Giken LSD
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Racers! Alignment Help Please!
Looking for ultimate grip. This is a GSL-SE that is used for track purposes, but sees some street usage. This is not an autocross car.
I have:
Ground Control Coilovers
Tokico Shocks
Aftermarket springs
Respeed Camber plates
Respeed Rear control arms
Trilink Rear suspension
Respeed Rack and Pinion
I'll be installing the Rack in a couple of weeks and I just installed the rear conrol arms. So, a full alignment is needed. I'm concerned with ultimate medium and high speed grip. Tire wear is not my primary concern.
Racers, please post your alignment numbers (if you can share) or any links to alignment setups where toe, camber and height are adjustable.
Thanks!
I have:
Ground Control Coilovers
Tokico Shocks
Aftermarket springs
Respeed Camber plates
Respeed Rear control arms
Trilink Rear suspension
Respeed Rack and Pinion
I'll be installing the Rack in a couple of weeks and I just installed the rear conrol arms. So, a full alignment is needed. I'm concerned with ultimate medium and high speed grip. Tire wear is not my primary concern.
Racers, please post your alignment numbers (if you can share) or any links to alignment setups where toe, camber and height are adjustable.
Thanks!
02-08-10, 11:58 AM
#2
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tire size? big track, smaller auto x?
if its partially a street car, start with the following
zero front toe, a track car with the stock box would run a little toe out. the rack might call for something a little different, but zero toe is a good place to start
-1.5 camber. a track car would start around -2.5, but this will wear the tires on the street. smaller tires (185-195) will take even more camber
caster; generally you just want as much positive caster as you can get, which isn't much different from stock, just make it even
ride height: not sure about this one, geometry goes crazy on a stock car at both ends when you go too low. you also want to avoid bottoming out. in the front you wanna keep the roll center above ground
if its partially a street car, start with the following
zero front toe, a track car with the stock box would run a little toe out. the rack might call for something a little different, but zero toe is a good place to start
-1.5 camber. a track car would start around -2.5, but this will wear the tires on the street. smaller tires (185-195) will take even more camber
caster; generally you just want as much positive caster as you can get, which isn't much different from stock, just make it even
ride height: not sure about this one, geometry goes crazy on a stock car at both ends when you go too low. you also want to avoid bottoming out. in the front you wanna keep the roll center above ground
02-08-10, 12:09 PM
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FB=OS Giken LSD
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tire size? big track, smaller auto x?
if its partially a street car, start with the following
zero front toe, a track car with the stock box would run a little toe out. the rack might call for something a little different, but zero toe is a good place to start
-1.5 camber. a track car would start around -2.5, but this will wear the tires on the street. smaller tires (185-195) will take even more camber
caster; generally you just want as much positive caster as you can get, which isn't much different from stock, just make it even
ride height: not sure about this one, geometry goes crazy on a stock car at both ends when you go too low. you also want to avoid bottoming out. in the front you wanna keep the roll center above ground
if its partially a street car, start with the following
zero front toe, a track car with the stock box would run a little toe out. the rack might call for something a little different, but zero toe is a good place to start
-1.5 camber. a track car would start around -2.5, but this will wear the tires on the street. smaller tires (185-195) will take even more camber
caster; generally you just want as much positive caster as you can get, which isn't much different from stock, just make it even
ride height: not sure about this one, geometry goes crazy on a stock car at both ends when you go too low. you also want to avoid bottoming out. in the front you wanna keep the roll center above ground
I appreciate the numbers. As mentioned, this car is primarily a track car run under HPDE at larger tracks, Pocono, NJMSP, etc. It is used occasionally for street use like say a nice sunny Friday, I may take it to work or take it for a drive on the weekend. However this is not a DD, so tire wear is not a primary concern, although decent tire life is good as it is run primarily on race rubber.
02-09-10, 12:35 PM
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I searched the race section, and there really was not too much information especially for FBs. Every track day I see a couple SAs and FBs so I know there are plenty of people running them. I guess they either ar not on the forum, or they just don't want to share information.
02-09-10, 01:43 PM
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I searched the race section, and there really was not too much information especially for FBs. Every track day I see a couple SAs and FBs so I know there are plenty of people running them. I guess they either ar not on the forum, or they just don't want to share information.
you might be kinda right though, i know my 1st gen setup from pro7, which is pre rx7 forum
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02-09-10, 02:20 PM
#8
-billy
02-10-10, 02:11 AM
#13
It all depends on what racing you're doing. If I'm autoXing I want as much turn in as possible so I go 0 toe to 1/6" toe out. On a track where straight line stability is an issue I agree with Brad. Although I have never has an issue with driveability running 0 toe daily with the terrible roads we have in Seattle, and I've seen speeds above 130 on them.
edit: I'm an r-tard you specifically said this was a track not an AutoX car. LOL. do what he said!
edit: I'm an r-tard you specifically said this was a track not an AutoX car. LOL. do what he said!
02-10-10, 06:57 PM
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FB=OS Giken LSD
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So....
Fronts:
2-3 degrees negative camber
1/8 toe out front to 1/6 toe in (that kinda equals 0)
Max caster
Rear:
?
?
?
I know that adjustments will be made, but just looking for a starting point.
Gracias!
Fronts:
2-3 degrees negative camber
1/8 toe out front to 1/6 toe in (that kinda equals 0)
Max caster
Rear:
?
?
?
I know that adjustments will be made, but just looking for a starting point.
Gracias!
02-11-10, 11:22 AM
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02-11-10, 11:56 AM
#16
Scott Howard
Front: -1.8 - -2 camber (I don't like to much camber because it reduces braking) (I also run a stiff setup, the suspension doesn't give that much) 700lb front springs
Slight front toe out: 1/8
Make sure you have proper turn in spacers and some good bushings.
Rear: -.5 - -1 camber
0 Toe
Slight front toe out: 1/8
Make sure you have proper turn in spacers and some good bushings.
Rear: -.5 - -1 camber
0 Toe
02-11-10, 11:59 AM
#17
Scott Howard
You need an adjustable front sway bar, you can corner weight by adjusting the height of each corner (cross weight), but you need to make sure the sway bar isn't preloaded.
Also, not sure if anybody mentioned the rake. I prefer the front end slightly lower than the rear. You'll get better turn in and less push when accelerating out of the corners. You'll end up with +rake coming out of a corner if you set your car for equal ride height (this is because of the rear squating from excel).
Also, not sure if anybody mentioned the rake. I prefer the front end slightly lower than the rear. You'll get better turn in and less push when accelerating out of the corners. You'll end up with +rake coming out of a corner if you set your car for equal ride height (this is because of the rear squating from excel).
05-23-10, 01:24 PM
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if you're not doing tire temps, then just get everything even WITH YOU IN THE CAR.
zero toe, max caster*, and start @-2 camber like billy says.
i dunno about your HPDE group, but ours don't run fast enough to need more camber, or even get the tires up to temp.
05-23-10, 02:09 PM
#21
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Front: -1.8 - -2 camber (I don't like to much camber because it reduces braking) (I also run a stiff setup, the suspension doesn't give that much) 700lb front springs
Slight front toe out: 1/8
Make sure you have proper turn in spacers and some good bushings.
Rear: -.5 - -1 camber
0 Toe
Slight front toe out: 1/8
Make sure you have proper turn in spacers and some good bushings.
Rear: -.5 - -1 camber
0 Toe
if you're actually doing tire temps, then that will set the camber. so spend all the time on the alignment setting the toe/caster.
if you're not doing tire temps, then just get everything even WITH YOU IN THE CAR.
zero toe, max caster*, and start @-2 camber like billy says.
i dunno about your HPDE group, but ours don't run fast enough to need more camber, or even get the tires up to temp.
if you're not doing tire temps, then just get everything even WITH YOU IN THE CAR.
zero toe, max caster*, and start @-2 camber like billy says.
i dunno about your HPDE group, but ours don't run fast enough to need more camber, or even get the tires up to temp.
I can take my tire temps, but I have no alignment equipment to adjust my alignment at the track so the only thing I can mess with is air pressure, height, and rebound.
A couple pictures in grid from last year:
05-23-10, 07:47 PM
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The NASA club I run with has multiple run groups on the track at once. For example I was on the track with a GTR, a supercharged Elise, a Z06, a Mustang GT, and a Tiburon. So, all that to say is you go as fast as your skill allows you to go.
I can take my tire temps, but I have no alignment equipment to adjust my alignment at the track so the only thing I can mess with is air pressure, height, and rebound.
A couple pictures in grid from last year:
I can take my tire temps, but I have no alignment equipment to adjust my alignment at the track so the only thing I can mess with is air pressure, height, and rebound.
A couple pictures in grid from last year:
05-23-10, 10:46 PM
#23
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I did a major suspension modification and before I drive my car on the street or track I need to perform an alignment as my current alignment was done by eyeball.
I appreciate those who have had useful inputs on this matter and I will be going with that. Thanks!
05-24-10, 01:06 AM
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