DeAd-EyE

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

i'm going with a friend to look at an FB. Its a GSL-SE model year is either 79 or 81 i can't remember. It has about 80,000kms on it and bodywork is mint.

what are things to look for with the motor, problems that i should look out for. my understanding is that if treated properly, the NA rotary motors are quite bullitproof, is this correct?

RarisRX-7

79-81 is not GSL-SE, it is a 12A G, GS, or GSL and its an SA body, not an FB. engine could be a 13B swap; if it is a GSL-SE engine it will be fuel injected (no carburetor), also see if it has a GSL-SE rear end (disc brakes and limited slip differential)

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

The GSL-SE was only ever offered in 84 and 85

What made the GSL-SE different was the bigger Fuel-Injected 13b engine.

If the car you go to see has a big round blue air filter holder, then it's not a GSL-SE.

Anyway, there are a few things to look for when looking for a first gen. The biggest spot for rust is under/behind the storage bins. The bins are held in place by five phillips screws. Unscrew these and pull the bin out about an inch. Then slip your hand in and squish the bottom of the bin upwards so that you can take the bin out without damaging the light or switch. Looking at the floor of the car with the bin out will give you an idea of how much rust your car has, because that's the first and worst place rust forms.

As for engine, you're right that if they're properly taken care of, the 1st gens go for a long time. The thing I'd be worried about is the low milage. You want to make sure the car hasn't been sitting in one place for a long time. Mine was, and I had to deal with a world of problems related to the car not being driven. If the car is startable, it shouldn't give off white smoke. White smoke is a coolant leak, and means an engine rebuild. However, BLUE smoke is a good thing generally. If you get a small puff of blue on startup or on take-off, this means your engine is getting proper lubrication and is running well. That's right, you heard me: Rotaries are supposed to burn a bit of oil!

When you get the car, you should replace the following before even thinking about driving it:
- Air Filter
- Fuel Filter
- Oil and Oil Filter (use non-synthetic. 10w30 is fine, if you're in an ultra-hot climate some guys run 20w30 mineral oil, but I could never get away with that where I live)
- Spark Plugs (use only NGK BR8EQ-14 or BR9EQ-14s. The 9s are for mostly highway driving. Accept NO substitute. Other brands of plugs have been known to damage our engines. I repeat: NGK ONLY)
- Spark Plug Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor
- Flush Coolant and Re-fill with 50/50 distilled water/ethelyne glycol antifreeze (has to be safe for aluminum engines)
- Transmission Fluid (chances are it's never, EVER been changed in the car's life. RedLine MT-90 is the best, if you can't find it, use any good synthetic standard gearbox oil)
- Rear Differential Fluid. If you have disc brakes in the rear, then your car is probably a GSL or GSL-SE. This means you have a Limited Slip Differential (LSD). You need LSD-specific gear fluid. If you don't have discs, you have drums like me, and you can use any synthetic 75w90 gear oil. Again, this fluid probably hasn't been changed in the car's life.
- Run a tank or two of either Ethanol, or some quality brand gas with cleaner in it. Heck, even add a bottle of carb and engine cleaner to the tank.

With this preventative maintenance your car should be good for many miles to come. Check your oil often and replenish it because remember, you're supposed to burn it.

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

I thought I'd throw this in for reference, and to try and clarify RarisRx7's post:

SA and FB are terms we use to refer to 1st Gens. They come from the VIN numbers on our cars in North America. 'SA' refers to 79-80 cars. FB refers to 81-85 cars. The difference is aparent mostly in the bumper and side trim styles.

The 1st gen had two different engines through it's life. The 12a engine, which was carbureted, was on all models from 79-83, and on the lower S, GS and GSL models of 84-85. In 84-85 the 1st gen also got the 13b engine, only on it's highest model, the GSL-SE. The way to tell the difference as I mentioned earlier is that the GSL-SE has a big metal box that says "RE-EGI" on it, and the others have a big round blue air filter canister.

The GSL and GSL-SE models got 4-wheel disc brakes and Limited Slip Differential
The S and GS models got drums in the back and open differential. Sunroofs were optional on GS models, I've got one on mine.

The GSL-SE also got a different bolt pattern for the wheels. 4 bolts, the centres of which are 4.5" apart (4x4.5"). All other models got 4x110mm, which are near impossible to buy aftermarket rims for. If you're planning to buy rims for your car, aim for a GSL-SE, or save up quite a bit and search the forum for information on where to get 4x110mm wheels.

Siezed engines can be unsiezed. That isnt' a problem on the rotary, you just have to be extremely careful about doing it.

Carburetors can be rebuilt. Rx7Carl and Sterling do an awesome job of that.

And for anything else you need, check the FAQ, browse through the archive, and try a search or two. Even if doing this doesn't give you the answer to your specific question, it will give you more information and the ability to ask a more intelligent question when you do post. This makes it easier for us to answer and helps prevent masses of threads that all say the same thing.

Welcome to the Rx7. I think you probably already knew alot of this, given you have a few posts here already. If you did, then feel free to dismiss what you know. I was in a typing mood today and figured I'd add some info for anybody who pulls up this thread in a search.

Jon

numan2

up north you might wanna get the car on a lift and check the suspension mounts at the body too.

DeAd-EyE

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the advice fellas.
we went to see the car. it had very little rust, just a bit on the fenders but that is fairly tipical of any old jap car. interior was mint. engine while not in the best cosmetic condition was mechanically sound. in any event there's enough spare parts comming with the car to fix almost anything (the owner used the car to practice for his college autoshop class).

correction on the year and modle: it's an 84 GSL.
my friend really likes the car and i think he will buy it.

the only thing i'm wondering about is there appears to be some surface rust on the diff. Is this just old age or a sign of somehting more sinister?

apexme

it's a sign of the apocalypse... we're all going to die now, thanks jerk

lol just age mines a 82 and it's a slight shade of brown but i believe it's 1/4" thick so i don't believe it'll rust through anytime soon

Snapshot

In the moter the only think you can look for is how it starts & runs. Is it smooth? W/ 80k miles the trans should be fine but check if it shifts w/out effort or noise.
One of my 81s has over 200,000 miles on the original engine & runs smooth as glass.