perfect_circle

im going to be building a turbo soon as some may know.

but anyways, how many miles have you put on your turbo setup. what kind of reliabilitie are we lookig at. i know its no honda, but like what goes, and first. i do plan on running lots of boost, that is once i get it tuned. i realize that i will have the usual turbo problems of..well turbos, but like how long will the motor itself last?

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

how much boost you looking at running?this info is a determining factor. more boost=less motor life

perfect_circle

i think coldy was hitting 18. so id like to run that much if i could. basically as much as possble. but it will only be a weekend car. and i will have a controllable boost controller. so it will e like 6-7 then when i go to race er whatever i would flip the swith to highboost.

AdrenalifeRX7

I run 12-14 psi and pretty much beat on it and it's been reliable. I could run more boost and probably say the same thing. It's the rest of the car that you have to worry about.

perfect_circle

adrenaliferx7: is that a tii block? i plan on using a 12a...with non turbo internals. but anywho, how many miles do you have on it?

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

I wish I could give you a heads up on reliabilty. but I havn't been able to drive my car more than 2 miles at a time since I started this project. Each week I get a little closer to getting it streetable. Hell, I just started getting the paperwork together to register it . I bought new tires about 4 monthes ago and they are still new. All the little rubber thingys that stick out are still there.

I can tell it's not a TII block, cause I read his signature. But, I would love to see some better pictures of that engine bay if you dont mind. Since I'm also running the IDA on my setup. What are you running for a float in that carb?

steve84GS TII

If you exceed 8psi,its best to have an engine block thats built to handle boost.Either a TII block or at least 12AT rotors, if you dont want a 13B.

Fuel delivery is critical.EFI is best, but a carb can be made to work.Make sure your fuel pump is adequate and the fuel injectors/carb jets are correct for the amount of boost you want to run.Running lean,even a little will cause detonation,and that is a death nail for a turbo rotary.Run premium gas and change your oil often.Dirty,blowby oil is volitile and will increase detonation probability.
Get a front mount IC or an intake temp gauge if you run a stock TII topmount or no IC.Temps above 175* are boarderline and will increase detonation.Keep your timing advance mild.No adancing past stock settings,perhaps even retard it a bit if you dont have low compression rotors.Dont cut any corners.A turbo rotary can be as unforgiving as a N/A rotary is dependable.Silicone hose with zipties,fresh gaskets/Orings,flush the cooling system,have the injectors cleaned,freeup the exhaust system,frsh tuneup,ect.Do it all before you run the setup under boost.Its not a good idea to wait on stuff like this because ONE ping can kill an apex seal,no joke.

My S5 TII block has been running strong with 14psi for almost 3 years.The block was built by Mazdatrix with almost all new parts.The front mount keeps the temps well below 120*,a SupraTT pump feeds the upgraded injectors,and a lazy hybrid TO4B replaced the overtaxed TII turbo after only a short time.Turbos are addicting because HP can be dialed in with just the push of a button on the boost controller.Build a complete system tuned for your planned HP levels and youll run a LONG time with no problems.Except for,normal, somewhat accelerated preventative maintenence.
But if you crank up the boost without a piece of the puzzle in place,its bye,bye engine.Some motors have been popped on the dyno,before the owner could even drive the car.It all depends on how thourough you are.I laugh whenever someone asks,how to put a turbo on a car.Its a whole system,not just a turbo.Fuel,spark,internal reinforcement,exhaust,plumbing,aftercooling,and then the compressor itself.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

What Steve said!!

I see it will not be your daily driver, that's a big plus right there.

coldy13

I was hitting 16psi max for races only. For normal driving it was between 8 and 12, usually 12 though. Be VERY careful while tuning, and you don't want to run it as hard as it'll go. Jet the carb slightly rich and have the timing a couple degres ratarted to make sure you don't detonate. While tuning I ran 8psi because it was the lowest I could go. I detonated mine hard about 6-7 times. I didn't notice it effecting anything at all, but when I took apart the motor to build a new one there were 3 side seals split in 1/2, and 2 corner seals slipt. Corner and apex seal springs were worn out, but that was from the previous owner overheating it. Supisingly the back plate didn't crack and the apex seals were fine, but I went with stronger apex's anyway. I ported and put a small bevel on the closing of the port so the side seals rides smoothly up it(see judge ito's thread). I still made great power with the dying motor and nikki carb. It was enough to take an '04 lancer evo, and was dead even with my friends widebody 13b streetport turbo, using the same turbo as me.

My car is now my daily driver, I'm having fuel pressure issues, either the pump or regulator is dead. So for now I'm staying completely off boost, which is tough with a ported motor, that turbo wants to spool everytime I touch the gas.

steve84GS TII

Yea,not being a daily driver opens up all kinds of fun possibilities.Like super light flywheels,locked differentials,and major weight reduction.If your willing to give up some comfort,you can make big progress in performance with less money spent.
Put that b*tch on a diet! :-)

perfect_circle

im already in the process of stripping the interior... the cool thing is my g/f doesnt care if its bare, or has a really stiff ride

perfect_circle

bump

HalfchassisRX3

The biggest problem I have had with my turbo 80 model is the rear end. They dont take alot of punishment. Save your money and build an 8.8 for it.