Question about Autometer water temp gauge
#1
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Question about Autometer water temp gauge
Hey guys,
Anyone here installed an Autometer water temp gauge? If so, were exactly did you put the sensor? Did you tap a hole, did you get an adapter for an existing hole?
My original thought was to simply drill out and tap the sensor location for the original choke temp sensor. Then install the new one using the smaller adapter that comes with the gauge. Is this what anyone did. You'd obviously have to remove the water pump to get access if doing it this way.
Any advice from those who have done this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone.
Anyone here installed an Autometer water temp gauge? If so, were exactly did you put the sensor? Did you tap a hole, did you get an adapter for an existing hole?
My original thought was to simply drill out and tap the sensor location for the original choke temp sensor. Then install the new one using the smaller adapter that comes with the gauge. Is this what anyone did. You'd obviously have to remove the water pump to get access if doing it this way.
Any advice from those who have done this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone.
#2
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When I was installing my new motor I bought and autometer guage too, fearing my stock guage was inaccurate.
Before I put the motor in I drilled and tapped the stock location (at least on my 79 style motor) for the sender which is a 1/8" pipe thread, which is very common. The stock sender is located right above the heater outlet on the driver side of the motor.
That how I did it and haven't had any problems since, and the guage works great! oh be sure to use some teflon tape on the sender's threads.
Matt
Before I put the motor in I drilled and tapped the stock location (at least on my 79 style motor) for the sender which is a 1/8" pipe thread, which is very common. The stock sender is located right above the heater outlet on the driver side of the motor.
That how I did it and haven't had any problems since, and the guage works great! oh be sure to use some teflon tape on the sender's threads.
Matt
#3
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Hmmm, now what was that advice again?
Oh, thanks someone, I'll end up trying an adapter first, and if that is no good, I'll tap the waterpump somewhere.
Oh, thanks someone, I'll end up trying an adapter first, and if that is no good, I'll tap the waterpump somewhere.
#4
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yeah no problem ..
Last night there was a post on this message that talked about the adapter but now it's gone ? but here is the link.. for pipe thread adapters:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?...apter_Bushings
Now that I know about the adapter, I wish I would have done this instead.
I think the choke sender thread is M16 X 1.5.
On my 7 I don't see why u would have to remove the waterpump, but I'm not sure, the senders might be different on later models or it might just be the fact that I removed the emmisions controls from the carb.
Matt
Last night there was a post on this message that talked about the adapter but now it's gone ? but here is the link.. for pipe thread adapters:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?...apter_Bushings
Now that I know about the adapter, I wish I would have done this instead.
I think the choke sender thread is M16 X 1.5.
On my 7 I don't see why u would have to remove the waterpump, but I'm not sure, the senders might be different on later models or it might just be the fact that I removed the emmisions controls from the carb.
Matt
#5
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Thread Starter
The only reason to remove the waterpump is to get access to the side for tapping. There probably isn't enough room to move with it still in the car.
I should point out, that in my case I'm dealing with a TII engine with it's large intake (getting in the way).
If I were installing a new engine at the time, I'd probably do what you did, because of the neatness you'd get for the finished install.
PS. Thanks for the link.
I should point out, that in my case I'm dealing with a TII engine with it's large intake (getting in the way).
If I were installing a new engine at the time, I'd probably do what you did, because of the neatness you'd get for the finished install.
PS. Thanks for the link.
#6
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I tapped the adapter rather ten the housing for simplicity. If I ever decide to go back to stock I wont have to get a new housing. I used an autometer mechanical gauge to eliminate current draw.
peace
peace
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