Ok, just got my car put back together from the summer painting extravaganza, and the bastard who tried stealing it and busted the ignition switch.

Got all of that finished and drove it for a week, went out to start it at the beginning of the week and it turned over good a few times. Then all of a sudden the volts dropped and it would just barely turn over. First thought the batt was toast, tested it and it was not only a good cell but also fully charged. So next I try the starter, swap it out for a brand new one I have had sitting around the shop. Tryed to start it, same thing. Decided to turn on the lights and turn it over, they did not dim out at all. When I engage the starter the dash light all go dim and the volt gauge drope to about 9-10 volts, the starter engages, and turns slowly (I could turn it faster by hand), and now the over-rev buzzer will sound (very sickly) for a brief second.

Battery tested good
new starter and old starter same result
all battery wires were replaced with 4 and 8 gauge blue stinger wire about 1.5 years ago with gold end caps

I dont know if this means much but when I engage the turn signals the volt meter goes from 14v-10v pulsating with the rythm of the blinker (it has done this since I got the car 3 yrs ago)

Is there a relay under the dash that I am missing?
Do I need to add another ground?
could the computer be causing the problem?


this is an 84 12a, no emissions, stock nikki with emissions removed.


peace

 

hows the negative cable look? bad negs can cause funky problems

 

Check the neg ground on the block. It sits directly under the oil cooler....and no matter how careful you are...oil drains right on top of the neg cable and block.

I got tired of low voltage on my 83-12a, and saw a suggestion on this web that we ground the neg to a starter bolt. I did it last month and my periodic starter probolems disappeared. I too, bought a new starter 4 months ago .....for no reason.....neg wire!!!!!

 

"all battery wires were replaced with 4 and 8 gauge blue stinger wire about 1.5 years ago with gold end caps"

The ground was also relocated and added a ground for that reason, Im beginning to think it is a body ground because I just repainted it. I'm really just trying to see if there is anything I could have overlooked.

I also just noticed the mechanical wter temp gage coiled wire I installed is sparking on the metal part of the dash where the stereo and ac used to be whenever I engage the ignition, but not when just in the on position (only sparks when starter engaged).

thanks for the replys keeep em coming

 

Try bypassing your ignition starter switch. Disconnect the 12-volt switch wire from the spade terminal on your starter solenoid. Run a temporary wire directly from the spade terminal to the battery, but don't connect it to the battery. Turn your ignition switch to "on". Touch temporary wire to positive terminal of battery. If starter cranks normal and car starts - you probably have a short in the ignition switch harness. If you remove the covers from the steering column you can disassemble the switch and see if any of the contacts are "melted" or badly pitted.

 

Yea maybe a body ground is bad. The stock gnd is from the batt, to the body at the strut tower, then onto the upper left bellhousing bolt. Did you replicate this with your replacemment setup? ALso theres an important gang ground at the right headlight motor. You cant miss it. Its important cause Mazda in their wisdom grounded alot of stuff there, like the fuel pump! Go figure.