Hey, I am just going put the information here on the post so that everyone will see. Hey I don't car if you copy the setup but it is a lot of work and a fair amount of money. I have about 900-1000 into just this setup. Here is a parts break down:

Custom radiator 500
IC 170
Couplers/T bolts 100
Aluminum welding 150
Steel 50

Then you have all the time polishing and welding. I honestly wished that I would have just done a front mount. It would have been a lot easier and cheaper. I even did a writeup on installing a radiator that was my size. Took me about 4 hours. In this setup I estimate that I have close to 40 hours into.

I am typically a very **** person so I like to ensure that everything is square and will fit properly.

My intercooler core is 24"x12"x3". Personally I think that you are going to be hard pressed to fit a 4" core in there. I had issues with my 3". The problem is that when the IC gets thicker you have less and less room for a radiator. This is partly why I could only get a IC that was 17"W and 14"H. It should be sufficient for what I need.

Also you will need to vent the hood. There are various ways that this can be done. I chose two scoops as in one of my previous pictures.

For anyone willing to take on a project this is a good setup. You just have to use a little creativity.

 

Thanks for the info Z....you forgot to mention where you got the radiator from. I already had planned on the vented hood. Theres a thread in the forsale section for a CF vented one. For right now Im going to try it as a FMIC as there is one already in place (came with the car) so i'll see what i have to work with.

 

Hey no problem. Being an engineer I have a hard time creating something that is not as efficient as possible. I felt that the FMIC option was not the best setup due to the fact that approx 90% of it was covered by the IC. I know that this is a proven setup but my car is by no mean a daily driver and living in the great state of Wa it only comes out on nice sunny days. I need every ounce of efficiency that I can get out of this engine.

I purchased the radiator from a place called Performance Radiator. I am not sure if they are local in your area. I can hook you up with the guy though if you are interested. He seemed to take special interest in the rx-7 scene. His work is 100% top notch.

I saw that hood. If there was one in FG then I would be interested. I am not much of a fan for CF.

 

Hey Damian,

I bought one from Gegs for $170(Free Shipping) and Cut the Bottom radiator tube sealed the tube and switched it to the other side. Total $200

22x19 Ford/Chrysler Style Part # 555-51185

This pic was before I sealed the hole.




Hey Z-Beater: Please start a new thread on the Hood when your're done with it. That's my next project.

 

Great information there. I had considered going with a premade one from Jegs etc but since I was working with such a tight space(20"Wx14"H) I wanted to ensure that I had the best radiator. Why build everything so perfectly and then short on the cooling side.

Also Luimil73 I am not sure if you were reffering to my setup. Your radiator is sitting 90 degrees reversed in comparrison to mine. This setup would not be too efficient with an h or v-mount. With a v-mount you are supposed to essentially trap the air so that nothing can escape. This gives you a "pushing/re-circulating" effect. With the Radiator setting in your location you will be blocking the intercooler. In order to have the asme setup as me you will need to reverse the Radiator. There are a couple things that you can do to offset this problem. One, I previously mentioned by rotating the radiator, the other is to vent the header panel so that air gets forced through the panel and then out the hood. This should also be effective because the air will be forced out by suction. Cost wise this is a more viable option.

I have posted a few pictures of my hood earlier in this thread. It will give you an idea of what I am going for. It is almost done but I decided that I did not need a hood to get the car up and running so I would just finish the rest of the build and then get to the hood.

I would be more than happy to start a new thread when i get to it. There are a few things that I learned along the way.

 

Yes! the drawing I posted was asking about your setup, but just out of curiosity. My IC is the 4", and is already mounted in the front.

Test fit pic

 

Thanks for the info Lui. I'll be sure to keep that in mind

 

Fawk! I want to get my car done. My front mount sucks!

 

Well last night I picked up my oik cooler lines. Had to get a complete setup due to the fact that I was moving the cooler forward about 5". I picked up the AN fitting from mazdatrix and then went down to the local hydraulics shop and had them made.

I also dropped my driveshaft off to get modified. This might be a mod that you turbo guys can consider. I Used the STOCK shaft. I had them cut off the front section and install new pieces. The shaft needed to be shortened approx an inch. I will get the exact dimensions later. Then I had them install a new u-joint and lower piece. This coupled with the work was just under 300.

To my understanding people take a TII shaft ($100) and get it modified ($150+parts) then on top of that have to wobble out the rear flange to fit. This was much easier and cost about the same. Parts for mine were around $150. I probably could have used the upper piece that would have dropped the price $50.

 

Ok, so I sent the car off to the tuner today. I should get it back fully up and running in a week or two.

Z

 

DAMN!! That thing looks nice dude. What kind of numbers are you looking for?

 

Have you ever seen the radiator on top and the I/C on the bottom so when you're sitting still the hot air doesn't heat soak the I/C?

I'm in the process of redoing my radiator, oil cooler and intercooler setup right now. It's a pain to get all three in there and still have good airflow across all three coolers isn't it? V mount is a neat idea.

 

Thanks, I am looking for about 350 to start. I only have a 5.7psi spring in my WG right now so I will probably only be able to boost about 11.4lbs. I have one on order though that is a 14psi spring so I can boost to 20+. I am hoping for 500 at about 21psi. I think that is realistic. Then later down the road I will rip the engine back out and port it(stock ports now) and see what she can do.

I have seen other 3rd gen owners hitting about 500 with some issues at about 20psi. There is actually a really cool dyno video that can be seen here:

http://media.putfile.com/Rx7-FD3S-AF...steve-kan-tune

Honestly I am not too concerned with the numbers though. My real question is how fast I can go down the track?

 

That is very interesting. I have actually seen a setup that is kind of like that. However remember that the rad has to sit at an angle. I do not see why you could just not flip my entire setup 180 degrees. At that point you would have to address the flow through the IC. You could create some sort of splitter and then a direction tray on the bottom.

I have to agree, fitting all of them in there is a pain. As mentioned before I was only able to have a 17"x14" rad.

Here are a couple pictures of a sweet 3rd gen with a similar setup to what you are talking about. He did not have to worry about OC placement though since his are to the side.

 

Are you having heat problems?

I have a:
1) Front Mount Intercooler
2) Front Mount (Stock Location) Oil Cooler
3) Front Mount (Stock Location) A/C Condenser
4) Front Mount (Stock Location) Radiator

Even in 90+ South Florida Heat, my water temp never goes above 185.
Which is what I have my Fan set to go on.

Maybe you just need more Fan? The 180SX one I have is a monster,
that blows 3300 CFM!! More than the regular black magic, and totally
silent too.

I have been planning a "V" mount setup in my car when I double up
on the IC, and go Bigger Turbo, - But I have also been wondering - why
would I? It works damn near perfect as it is. I might just go aftermarket
radiator and call it a day.

 

hey Z ... in that front picture of yours whats that blue line coming down? Is that going to the oil cooler? Doesn't seem too safe there.

 

No I am not worried about it. There is plenty of clearance. I don't daily drive this car. My exhaust would probably hit before the OC fitting did. This is partly because the muffler is 6" around.

If it becomes annoying I will change it. Not to hard. Unbolt, reposition, re-drill and re-mount.

 

check out some of the Australian cars...

Pac Performance
Maztech

just to name a couple.. they are running that and more... most customers cars are in the 10sec street range... craaazeeee

 

Hey Alex,

3 problems; oil temps were all over the place with my old oil cooler placement, Air temps were higher and my old radiator is shot (leaks externally and started to plug internally causing water temps to rise).

When letting the car idle the oil temp would rise and rise (220-240) due to no airflow over it when the rad fan kicked on but when cruising down the road temps would come back down to 160-180F. I had a divider to dirrect some of the airflow from the IC to the oil cooler. This took too much of that oh so sweet cool air from the IC causing my air temps to be higher. With the new setup I have a larger (but shorter)aluminum radiator and I'm mounting the oil cooler under it. This way the oil cooler and the radiator can share the radiator fan. Also all the hot stuff will be behind the IC so my air temps will come back down.

I would have just bought a regular tall replacement radiator and mounted the oil cooler in front of it like a stock gsl-se does but one problem.... my IC takes that space I think you can do this because your IC is more forward mounted?

Here are a couple pic's

 

That FD is a nice car but why place the air filter so it sucks from the radiator?

 

Car looks nice BTW

 

I thought the same thing when I saw it as well. I can only imagine it has one of those aftermarket hoods that have a vent at the front.

 

This is the first time I have read this thread, don't know how I missed it. All I have to say is both you and the car are nuts, and that is a good thing, sorry Martha.

Having an engineering degree, I know how **** one can get trying to make everything 'just right', and the amount of time and thought it can take. You've done one hellava job.

With your hp goals, what are your plans for getting it to the ground and holding? You're going to need something more than an FB rear and some fair sized meats for grip.

 

Wow! That thing looks amazing!

 

Yes this is the next area that needs to be addressed. I have been speaking with a few autox guys on something that would be competitive yet still streetable. Up front some sort of coilover setup possibly with FC brakes etc. Out back probably ford 8.8 with larger rear brakes and some sort of drag radial thinking 235(I don't want to flare). Not sure on the spring constant yet however. I need to take a ride in a few autox cars and see which one is best. It is really all up in the air right now though. I need to do some more research and find what will suit me the best.

Thanks for the compliments.