I wish I knew more on how to do body work and such. I have no patience, so I would just pay a professional to do it right. Keep up the good work

 

You asked at one time what impressed me? Well, the welding and design for one thing. When I welded in my roll bar, with flux core, I had more holes than fillet. Hadn't done any welding for 20 years and very out of practice. I'm impressed with anyone that can do a decent job welding thin body panels without burning through or warping the surrounding sheet metal. Most of my experience has been with structural steel, this tin stuff is new to me and a challenge.

You might as well post up all the pics you have and show step by step how you did the replacement pieces. It will be a good 'how to', show others it can be done and may save more 7s from the crusher.

 

what was the trick again for welding?

On sheet metal push and on thicker stuff pull?

 

I use a combination of both depenging on the situation, as I think I mentioned in earlier posts I'm self taught on all this stuff, so I have a hard time explaining since i "just do it"
The hardest part I have with sheet metal isn't welding it, its fabricating the patches to match up perfectly in the opening. All the joints have to be nice and tight or else its real hard to not burn through (which I've done plenty of, especially on my first project car)
After thinking about it more I think I push into the weld more often than pull, seems to penetrate very well and keep the weld from "boogering" up

I was looking through my picture file, and i don't have as many of the rain channel patch as I thought, but I will post up what i do have later and give a narative of what i did. I didn't realize there'd be so much interest in the body work

 

Please do!! My 83 has managed to escape rust for the most part, but there are two small holes on the piece you replaced in the back. It's not the rain channel, but I would have to replace that same section, only smaller. I'm looking forward to seeing that. My spare well is suffering from rust because the holes are letting in water.

 

Been a while since I posted here, I'll post up those pics of the body work sometime soon, sorry for the delay. I've been busy working on the car, still have to finish up some wiring, the exhaust and the fuel system, but its getting there. I attached a couple pics of the engine bay as it stands now. If anyone wants to see something up close let me know

 

Looking good, but I want to for not detailing out the engine after all of the other hard work you've put into it. lol

Btw, which intake adapter are using on the DC? I need find one for the S4 swap.

 

What does DC stand for? Oh and I have my reasons for not detailing the engine more, the main one being its a not rebuilt JDM engine, so who knows how long it will be in there That and i've never been the type to have a super shiney engine bay (hence painting everything black...)

 

Dynamic Chamber.

 

Ah, I always referred to it as the throttle body elbow, but whatever. Anyway, its the greddy elbow and can be purchased at http://www.rx7.com/store/rx7/fcintercooler.html
I stumbled upon mine on ebay, but it was almost the same price. A guy over in the FC section higgy makes one thats basically the same as well, and iirc robert at rotary shack has something similar.
Actually come to think of it, almost the whole intake track was bought on ebay, I got one of those universal piping kits (which actually worked out quite nicely) one of those blow off valve flange pipes (so I didn't have to find someone to weld aluminum for me) and the intercooler itself is off ebay...
The outlet on the turbo is 2", the i/c is 2.25 and the greddy elbow is 2.75, so it took some reducers to make it all work, but I'm happy with it.

 

hi great post on this car i have 85 rx7 that i put ford rear end 7.5 i would be interested in that tri system with the parhart system also , i would like to see also more pics of how u got rid of bins etc ill post a few pics here of my set up , i have some rusting issues that were repaired but not to my liking and there are other rust begining to show . i live in nh not to far from jersey and i would love to come see this set up . also on the transmission crossmember how did u get it to where ur trany shifter would go straight. if i dont make since pardon me is that english is my second language. any how please let me know. here are my pics. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...arparts044.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...arparts040.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...arparts048.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...arparts049.jpg

 

You're welcome to come down and check it out in person if you want, dont' get many rotorheads around here very often
I took a look at those pics of yours, nice rear setup btw, to fix the wheel well rust I completely removed those upper control arm braces, whereas yours are still partially there, and no doubt have rust under them that is creeping out. If you do come here I can show you better in person
As for the trans mount, what do you mean by "go straight"? I used the T2 trans's upper mount, and the FB crossmember and just drilled a hole in the fb crossmember. I also modified the shifter so it would be 30mm farther up to line up like a FB trans. Not sure if that was what you were asking about though Let me know, hopefully I can answer your question.

 

Sean, is that a cry for rotary love? "dont' get many rotorheads around here very often "

 

Always the wiseass aren't we....

 

I'm offended by that comment too.

The project is looking good. Way more progress than me, too much of my time is being taken by work school and the girl, so the future project car gets no love.

Keep goin and make sure you invite me for the starting ceremonies!

 

He's only half that ... just the *** part :P ... the wise part usually goes to trochoid lol

 

Haha you guys crack me up, dont' be offended nector And yes, trochoid is one of the wise "elders" on the forum, so to speak......

 

So, I'm an *** now! Say that in person!

 

what i was refering too is my motor is a 12a im using t2 tranny which makes the tranny shifter sits towards the driver side on an agle. any how i send u a pm did u get it ? i like to head there and look at this sometime soon within next 3 weeks or so since im planing finishing this thing before the summer.

 

lol ... just remember where your door panels came from for you famous speakers pods :P

 

intense

 

can u post the site where u bought the panhart and trilink system and what is the cost for it ? thanks

 

I am replying to your pm right after I finish this post. The panhard bar and tri link are from www.gforceengineering.net although they are designed for the FB rear end, I'm not sure how they will work out with a ford rear in there... Its about 600 for the two things, very well engineered too....
I couldn't tell you why the shifter sits at an angle, if you post a couple pics of your trans mount, and the shifter itself we might be able to tell. I'll talk to you about meeting up in a pm...

 

Swap your motor mounts from side to side to straighten up the shifter.

 

I always remember the little people! I actually love the different material in those then the originals! You want to buy the original pods I built for 5 1/4" speakers?