Ok well i will use this thread from now on to post updates and ask questions.

Question:
1] what does my egr do and If you can tell in the photo the holes under the EGR are all full of gunk or something and im guessing i have to take it out right? I dont need a new one or anything do I?

2] in photo 4 i broke the tip of one of the yellow/orangish plastic lines, i barely touched the damn thing! Can i just replace it with a rubber tube? or does it have to be plastic?

3] I want to really clean the hell out of the motor. I dont think i want to paint it after. I just want normal colors but i do want to polish the lighter irons as much as possible. Can anyone recommend a polisher?

Picture #1:
My adapter for the engine stand. Flipped one piece by mistake so that the center hole is on opposite side... but i fixed that. lol.

Picture #2:
Engine with everything removed and in process of being cleaned with "engine bright" and rag.

Picture #3:
E.G.R. gunk in the holes

Picture #4:
Yellow plastic line leading out of omp unit to something?

 

as long as the tube gets to where it needs to go it won't matter. The engine heat will break down plastic after prolonged periods of time. As for the gunk in the EGR; all the EGR does is recirculate the engine gases back through the motor. If you are not going to smog it the the hell with it. If you are clean it out and reassemble.

 

Cool so i can just use any tube, got it.

EGR: I am not worrying bout emmsions but i will clean it out, i just wanted to knwo if it was a horrible problem.


Another question, i know i have to replace the front cover.... there are 2 pieces that i thought were 1 single fornt cover.... The only pieve i have to replace is this one right? the bottom peice? the other holds the water pump but i can leave that one alone correct?

 

If you care about the environment, I would keep using the EGR system. Just give it a good clean.

 

That's a oil injection line for your OMP, and doesn't oil destroy rubber? I wouldn't replace that line with just "any tube."

 

So wut else it there short of pulling another plastic tube off a junker?

 

Yea,that yellow plastic tube is for one of the oil injectors on the rotor housing,it has nothing to do with the EGR.The EGR passage will always be carboned up because its passing exhaust gasses.So long as the passages arent completely clogged,it will work.

Its best to replace the OMP lines with factory units.They get very brittle and as you said,break easily.If they break while driving,its a slow painful death for your engine.Spend the money and order 4 new ones from Mazdatrix.Its worth the cost considering the difficulty to get to the lines once the engine is re-assembled...not to mention the consequences if they fail while your driving....

The EGR isnt really needed on rotaries,they are naturally low on NoX,making the EGR kinda redundant.Yes,running the EGR will reduce the emissions,but if your worried about f*cking up the planet,dont lose any sleep.
Just about every other rotary ever made, passes NoX emissions standards without an EGR.I still dont know why Mazda added EGR in 80,took it off in 81,then in 86 added it again,just to take it back off again in 89.....

 

Awesome, since im going to be done cleaning maybe tommarrow, i just wanted to make sure i could leave off the little rats nest thing right? anything else i can leave off?

Watchu guys think...... polish or paint or leave the same just cleaned up?

 

On the 86-88's you can loose the entire rats nest.The intake tuning is passive,unlike the 89-91's,so you dont need any of the solenoids on the rats nest.

The idle air controller on the intake needs to stay(the cylinder with coolant lines going to it)
All the temperature sensors on the engine/intake have to stay.
The throttle position sensor has to stay.
All the sensors and items that bolt to the fender wells have to stay(AFM,MAP,BARO)

The S4 ECU isnt that bright and it doesnt have any limp mode or check engine light.Youll know if you remove anything vital because itll run like sh*t.In that case,you can retrieve codes to help diagnose the problem.....but its a pain because they only pop up when the car is running/driving and you have to rig up a check engine light to read the codes.Youll also probably get a LOT of codes pop up since your removing a number of electrical items.

 

Just to make sure. I bought a p-plate and clutch disc from mazdatrix for my original 12A engine but i can still use them with this engine correct?

 

Yes.............so long as the clutch disc is 225MM diameter,which is the 83-85 12A size,as well as all later 13B N/A rotaries......
If its 225MM,then that clutch will fit any 13B N/A flywheel, and any N/A tranny,no problem.