1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

problems w/ gm cs130 alt...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 24, 2007 | 01:46 PM
  #1  
81WideMariah's Avatar
Thread Starter
Slave to the Rotor!
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 2
From: Orlando/Winter Park
problems w/ gm cs130 alt...

i recently installed a gm cs130 alt into my 81 per the insructions found in the post here on the forum..as it goesi have a wire run from the charge post to the s-terminal on the alt and what used to be the L terminal on the stock alt wired to the L terminal on the new alt...i'm using the delco pigtail with the wiring spliced in w good solid, soldered, weather-proof conections. and for the record from what i could tell tghe stock L wire is the thinner of the two that were originally plugged into the stock alt... now the problem i'm having is that i'm still seeing voltage drop whenever i use any of the accesories especially the power windows.. i mean i thought 105 amps would be plenty for my little gsl.

1.) did i miss someything on the install?

2.) what should be done with the stock R wire (thicker black w/ white stripe)?

3.) is this normal/expected?

thanks guys
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 11:06 AM
  #2  
81WideMariah's Avatar
Thread Starter
Slave to the Rotor!
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 2
From: Orlando/Winter Park
bump...c'mon guys 14 views and nobody has any advice??
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 11:46 AM
  #3  
DAVID GRIMES's Avatar
How About A Cup Of STFU
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: ALBANY, GA
I can't help you, except to theorize that just because your "voltage drops" with accessories does not mean that you don't have a shitwad of amps there for you and in reserve. Maybe the alternator is all good, but the voltage regulator isn't ? How much of a voltage drop ?

I hope you resolve this and post pics. I want to do this mod as well. Good luck.
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 11:55 AM
  #4  
Re-Speed.com's Avatar
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 1
From: London, Ontario
Take a set of jumper cables. Clamp onto the engine and alternator body with one end of the cables. Hook the other ends up to the ground terminal on the battery.

Run your test and see if you still have voltage drop. If not then you need to run new ground and posibly a new ground strap to the battery.

-billy
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 11:57 AM
  #5  
81WideMariah's Avatar
Thread Starter
Slave to the Rotor!
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 2
From: Orlando/Winter Park
the volt meter will dip as much as a whole volt..... just wondering if maybe it's not a actually fluctuation with the voltage but a spikey lead in the dash volt meter itself, as how everything in our cars are ran off of switched source power...i.e. when you step on the brake pedal the meter drops, turn on the turn signals it bounces.... also dave if you're planning on doing the conversion go to alternatorparts.com they've got a great mounting kit that makes install super easy...
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 12:03 PM
  #6  
81WideMariah's Avatar
Thread Starter
Slave to the Rotor!
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 2
From: Orlando/Winter Park
great tip billy i'm going to try it and see what results i get....btw billy ever think of fabbing some sort of mounting bracket to facilitate this swap easier...i know most guys do it without the bracket.. but as i found out it puts too much stress on the small mounting ear... and mine snapped completely....the kit i mentioned above allows you to mount the alt using the large ear...just a thought...

p.s.... when are we gonna see that R&P kit???
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 03:17 PM
  #7  
Re-Speed.com's Avatar
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,483
Likes: 1
From: London, Ontario
Soon.....I hope.....

I have been working on it, just been real busy.

-billy
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 04:13 PM
  #8  
trochoid's Avatar
Old Fart Young at Heart
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 15,145
Likes: 8
From: St Joe MO
I'm with Billy on this one. Since you're upping your amps, I would start going over all the grounds and make sure they are good, the engine to body ground in particular. The main ground for the alt is through the mounting ears, which then goes through the engine > body and works it's way back to the battery.
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 07:45 PM
  #9  
steve84GS TII's Avatar
FB+FC=F-ME
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 5
From: Rohnert Park CA
Remeber too,that a 100amp alternator doesnt make those 100amps at idle.

If your worried about alternator output,take the car down to a Napa or whatever and have them check the car out while its running.At work,I have the same $800 tester that the Napa guys use,and its awesome.Not only can it diagnose the entire electrical system in one pass,you can clamp the amperage reader to the alt. output wire,crank up every last electrical item on the car,and read the alt's actual,real time output.

+1 on the ground straps.
My V-6 Samurai has a 140amp alternator and it gained almost a full volt on the gauge after I did up some supplemental grounds between the alternator case,frame,engine block and battery.I used some high quality,fine strand amplifier power wire.I also used the same fine braid, 8 gauge wire for the alternator power lead.
Reply
Old Feb 25, 2007 | 10:47 PM
  #10  
DAVID GRIMES's Avatar
How About A Cup Of STFU
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,552
Likes: 0
From: ALBANY, GA
Originally Posted by 81WideMariah
also dave if you're planning on doing the conversion go to alternatorparts.com they've got a great mounting kit that makes install super easy...
I went to the site, but not able to find the great mounting kit you indicate. Can you be more specific with part name or number, etc.

Also, will/can the one-wire alternators I see on that site work on our cars? I don't see why not, but anybody know for sure?
Reply
Old Feb 26, 2007 | 11:48 AM
  #11  
81WideMariah's Avatar
Thread Starter
Slave to the Rotor!
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 2
From: Orlando/Winter Park
david: the one wires should work fine they're just a little more expensive...the mounting kit is listed under the universal mounting kit section... here's the linky... http://store.alternatorparts.com/ind...ROD&ProdID=810

part number is a285...once you see the baracket it'll make since how it installs


going to redo the grounds this week thanks guys...

Last edited by 81WideMariah; Feb 26, 2007 at 11:53 AM.
Reply
Old Feb 26, 2007 | 11:44 PM
  #12  
steve84GS TII's Avatar
FB+FC=F-ME
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 5
From: Rohnert Park CA
My Sammy alternator is a one-wire version.
Theres nothing special about them,except its likely to delete the factory alt. warning light function,since that circuit no longer runs through the alternator.Not an issue if you have a voltage gauge.

The only quirk with the one-wires,is that they dont kick in until the revs have been past 1500 or so.When I start my Sammy cold,the volts wont break past 12V until I blip the throttle......no biggie.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WyomingTII
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
12
Sep 28, 2015 10:32 AM
lnlreaper
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
2
Sep 27, 2015 09:59 AM
The1Sun
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
Sep 18, 2015 07:13 PM
The1Sun
New Member RX-7 Technical
5
Sep 15, 2015 04:45 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:08 AM.