81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

i recently installed a gm cs130 alt into my 81 per the insructions found in the post here on the forum..as it goesi have a wire run from the charge post to the s-terminal on the alt and what used to be the L terminal on the stock alt wired to the L terminal on the new alt...i'm using the delco pigtail with the wiring spliced in w good solid, soldered, weather-proof conections. and for the record from what i could tell tghe stock L wire is the thinner of the two that were originally plugged into the stock alt... now the problem i'm having is that i'm still seeing voltage drop whenever i use any of the accesories especially the power windows.. i mean i thought 105 amps would be plenty for my little gsl.

1.) did i miss someything on the install?

2.) what should be done with the stock R wire (thicker black w/ white stripe)?

3.) is this normal/expected?

thanks guys

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

bump...c'mon guys 14 views and nobody has any advice??

DAVID GRIMES

I can't help you, except to theorize that just because your "voltage drops" with accessories does not mean that you don't have a shitwad of amps there for you and in reserve. Maybe the alternator is all good, but the voltage regulator isn't ? How much of a voltage drop ?

I hope you resolve this and post pics. I want to do this mod as well. Good luck.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Take a set of jumper cables. Clamp onto the engine and alternator body with one end of the cables. Hook the other ends up to the ground terminal on the battery.

Run your test and see if you still have voltage drop. If not then you need to run new ground and posibly a new ground strap to the battery.

-billy

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

the volt meter will dip as much as a whole volt..... just wondering if maybe it's not a actually fluctuation with the voltage but a spikey lead in the dash volt meter itself, as how everything in our cars are ran off of switched source power...i.e. when you step on the brake pedal the meter drops, turn on the turn signals it bounces.... also dave if you're planning on doing the conversion go to alternatorparts.com they've got a great mounting kit that makes install super easy...

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

great tip billy i'm going to try it and see what results i get....btw billy ever think of fabbing some sort of mounting bracket to facilitate this swap easier...i know most guys do it without the bracket.. but as i found out it puts too much stress on the small mounting ear... and mine snapped completely....the kit i mentioned above allows you to mount the alt using the large ear...just a thought...

p.s.... when are we gonna see that R&P kit???

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

Soon.....I hope.....

I have been working on it, just been real busy.

-billy

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I'm with Billy on this one. Since you're upping your amps, I would start going over all the grounds and make sure they are good, the engine to body ground in particular. The main ground for the alt is through the mounting ears, which then goes through the engine > body and works it's way back to the battery.

steve84GS TII

Remeber too,that a 100amp alternator doesnt make those 100amps at idle.

If your worried about alternator output,take the car down to a Napa or whatever and have them check the car out while its running.At work,I have the same $800 tester that the Napa guys use,and its awesome.Not only can it diagnose the entire electrical system in one pass,you can clamp the amperage reader to the alt. output wire,crank up every last electrical item on the car,and read the alt's actual,real time output.

+1 on the ground straps.
My V-6 Samurai has a 140amp alternator and it gained almost a full volt on the gauge after I did up some supplemental grounds between the alternator case,frame,engine block and battery.I used some high quality,fine strand amplifier power wire.I also used the same fine braid, 8 gauge wire for the alternator power lead.

DAVID GRIMES

I went to the site, but not able to find the great mounting kit you indicate. Can you be more specific with part name or number, etc.

Also, will/can the one-wire alternators I see on that site work on our cars? I don't see why not, but anybody know for sure?

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

david: the one wires should work fine they're just a little more expensive...the mounting kit is listed under the universal mounting kit section... here's the linky... http://store.alternatorparts.com/ind...ROD&ProdID=810

part number is a285...once you see the baracket it'll make since how it installs


going to redo the grounds this week thanks guys...

steve84GS TII

My Sammy alternator is a one-wire version.
Theres nothing special about them,except its likely to delete the factory alt. warning light function,since that circuit no longer runs through the alternator.Not an issue if you have a voltage gauge.

The only quirk with the one-wires,is that they dont kick in until the revs have been past 1500 or so.When I start my Sammy cold,the volts wont break past 12V until I blip the throttle......no biggie.