Problem with fuel not getting through carb
Problem with fuel not getting through carb
I have been working on my recently purchased '79 RX-7 on the weekends. It didn't run when I bought it so I got a carb rebuild kit and rebuilt it. I used carb cleaner and cleaned out all of the jets very well.
After I got the carb put back together, the car ran. I fired it up several times that afternoon. That evening, I started it up and it ran for a few seconds, then just died. It hasn't run since.
The engine turns over but won't fire. The only way it will run is if I squirt gas into the carb. I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump is running. I disconnected the fuel lines from the carb and fuel is getting to the carb, but no fuel is getting through.
Does anyone have any insight into this problem?
If nothing else, I will tear the carb apart again this weekend and running flexible brushes through all of the areas fuel will be going through.
After I got the carb put back together, the car ran. I fired it up several times that afternoon. That evening, I started it up and it ran for a few seconds, then just died. It hasn't run since.
The engine turns over but won't fire. The only way it will run is if I squirt gas into the carb. I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump is running. I disconnected the fuel lines from the carb and fuel is getting to the carb, but no fuel is getting through.
Does anyone have any insight into this problem?
If nothing else, I will tear the carb apart again this weekend and running flexible brushes through all of the areas fuel will be going through.
Damn I'm doing the same thing a yellow 1979 RX-7 10/79
Rebuilt the carb
cleaned the gas tank / new pump fitters etc...
half way thourgh the bring back to life project
Then I'm selling it for $500
hopefully someone knows I sure hope Mine runs!
Rebuilt the carb
cleaned the gas tank / new pump fitters etc...
half way thourgh the bring back to life project
Then I'm selling it for $500
hopefully someone knows I sure hope Mine runs!
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Could be stuck float needles valves. Try banging on the top of the carb with the handle of a large screwdriver or something similar. Sometimes that will get them freed up...
One other thing that I thought of, are there any solenoids that allow fuel to go through that would be jammed up? My grandpa suggested that some valve might be stuck closed either by solenoid or vacuum line.
I wanna drive my car.
yea, that's what kentetsu is talkin about. the needle valve will get stuck in the seat not allowing fuel to fill the bowls. i just went thru this a couple days ago after tuning my rebuilt nikki. you gotta tap the banjo bolt with the handle of a screwdriver or something like that. it will free it up. this may happen a coule times, but don't worry about it. just drive it around a little so fuel is constantly flowing thru and it will help. mine doesnt do it anymore.
edit: i thought of something else as well that works. if you have an adjustable pressure regulator (which if it's all stock you dont) then turn the base pressure up and it will push threw real quick. hell i run 6.5psi as a base pressure anyways.
edit: i thought of something else as well that works. if you have an adjustable pressure regulator (which if it's all stock you dont) then turn the base pressure up and it will push threw real quick. hell i run 6.5psi as a base pressure anyways.
My car still isn't running. No fuel is getting through. Even when I press down on the gas pedal, the accelerator pump isn't squirting. The float bowls have fuel in them a little over halfway up the sight glass. Any other suggestions?
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Originally Posted by slashdawg00110
You said it starts if you squirt gas directly into the carb. Does it stay running if you start it that way? If so, then the problem may be in the accel pump circuit or accel pump adjustment.
The float bowls are about 1/2 full, right? Next thing to check is what the idle mix screw is set at. It should be about 3 turns out from full stop. If you screwed it all the way in when you put the carb back together, you won't have any fuel flowing at idle.
The AP pulls fuel from the rear bowl only, and it pulls from a lilttle hole rather than through the main jet at the bottom of the bowl. So a blocked passage to the idle port - below the throttle plate - won't affect the AP. I think you have two different problems. One is the AP and why you don't see a shot from it. The other is lack of fuel when starting.
Do you have the carb choked when you're trying to start and keep it running? I don't know what the temp is Iowa today, but it's not quite warm enough in KC to keep a cold engine running without the choke and/or fast idle rod working.
Did you check the throttle plate opening when you rebuilt the carb? It has to be open slightly. There's a measurement in the manual.
The AP pulls fuel from the rear bowl only, and it pulls from a lilttle hole rather than through the main jet at the bottom of the bowl. So a blocked passage to the idle port - below the throttle plate - won't affect the AP. I think you have two different problems. One is the AP and why you don't see a shot from it. The other is lack of fuel when starting.
Do you have the carb choked when you're trying to start and keep it running? I don't know what the temp is Iowa today, but it's not quite warm enough in KC to keep a cold engine running without the choke and/or fast idle rod working.
Did you check the throttle plate opening when you rebuilt the carb? It has to be open slightly. There's a measurement in the manual.
I made sure to turn out the idle mix screw when I rebuilt it. When I go home this weekend, I will check the butterflies to make sure they are open a little bit and will look at the hole in the float bowl for the AP. Thanks for the suggestions.
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Chances are you have a problem with the AP circuit itself.
A missing or stuck checkball is my guess. You'll know quickly enough if, while there is a level of fuel half way in the site glass in the rear bowl, as you trun the primary throttle shaft you view the two streams of fuel shooting into the primary venturis.
If one of your needles is sticking closed, then try dead-heading the return line. This will give the fuel pressure no escape route to bypass the needle valve. The return fuel system, I believe, the reason sticking needle valves are so common in freshly rebuilt Nikkis.
A missing or stuck checkball is my guess. You'll know quickly enough if, while there is a level of fuel half way in the site glass in the rear bowl, as you trun the primary throttle shaft you view the two streams of fuel shooting into the primary venturis.
If one of your needles is sticking closed, then try dead-heading the return line. This will give the fuel pressure no escape route to bypass the needle valve. The return fuel system, I believe, the reason sticking needle valves are so common in freshly rebuilt Nikkis.
Originally Posted by Sterling
Chances are you have a problem with the AP circuit itself.
A missing or stuck checkball is my guess. You'll know quickly enough if, while there is a level of fuel half way in the site glass in the rear bowl, as you trun the primary throttle shaft you view the two streams of fuel shooting into the primary venturis.
If one of your needles is sticking closed, then try dead-heading the return line. This will give the fuel pressure no escape route to bypass the needle valve. The return fuel system, I believe, the reason sticking needle valves are so common in freshly rebuilt Nikkis.
A missing or stuck checkball is my guess. You'll know quickly enough if, while there is a level of fuel half way in the site glass in the rear bowl, as you trun the primary throttle shaft you view the two streams of fuel shooting into the primary venturis.
If one of your needles is sticking closed, then try dead-heading the return line. This will give the fuel pressure no escape route to bypass the needle valve. The return fuel system, I believe, the reason sticking needle valves are so common in freshly rebuilt Nikkis.
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Yeah, he means blocking or plugging the return line. Have you tried doing a volume test on the pump? Maybe its not even pumping at all?
What is the actual purpose of blocking the return line? Will that blow fuel through all of the paths or just to make sure the carb is getting enough fuel? Could someone explain this to me. Thanks
It will increase the fuel pressure in the carb and may unstick the float needles if they are stuck in the closed position. If they are stuck closed, fuel cannot flow into the bowls.
But he's saying his fuel bowls are half full through the site glass so wouldn't a stuck float needle be before his problem of the carb not feeding the motor gas...????
just thinking outloud....
just thinking outloud....
Thanks everyone for all of the help. This is the first carbed vehicle I have ever worked on, but am learning a lot. Hopefully, I will figure out why the carb hates me, try to talk nice to it and we can be friends. It is killing me not being able to drive my car...it is starting to keep me up at night trying to figure out what could be wrong. Yea, I know...I got it bad. Again, thanks everyone for the help in getting my car running.
Not trying to hi-jack this but I am having similar problems with an 82. After rebuilding the carb. It is not getting fuel to the engine. Fuel is flowing to the carb. the float bowls have correct amout of gas in them but it is not getting to the engine. Accel. pump works correctly and if I pump the accel. pedal it squirts gas into the intake. After reading some of the suggestions here I thought I may have some stuck float valves. I tried blocking off the fuel return hose. This puts fuel into the engine and I will start and run this way but will not Idle. I have to keep the rpms at about 3500 to 4000 to keep it running. When I reconnect the return line goes back to the same problem. No fuel getting to the engine. Motor starts for a second or two and then dies. I probably did something wrond during the rebuild but can't figure out what it was. This is my third carb. rebuild and the first two worked great.
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alphawolff
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Nov 17, 2015 05:57 PM






