Ive had the Pport in my 7 for 2-3 weeks now. I havent driven it much because it has problems starting when the engine gets to temp. When its cold and hasnt been drivin for awhile it starts right up w/ no problem, but if i wait for it to warm up and turn it off it wont start up again. My dad and i dont think its the compression. Its a new rebuild w/ new seals, springs, etc. Its not the ignition or fuel cuz we checked it a thousand times. Its really bumming me cuz i wanna get it running nice already. what do you think could be the problem??

 

Sorry no data on pports, but I wanted to say, you're insane! a pport as a daily driver in SoCal! I love it!

 

oh yeah i shouldve taken out the DAILY DRIVER on my signature. I dont Daily the Pport and i dont really plan to. My BP engine was my daily Once i get it rebuilt ill be driving her everyday again.

 

low compression

 

If the break in isnt done, or wasnt done right, the compression wont be very high, although I dont know if thats your problem, Im just giving you ideas

~T.J.

 

Collapsed or extremely work corner seals are a cause for poor warm starting.

 

Hmm, I don't have an answer, though I have logged about as many miles with a similar setup (PP13B with Weber 51IDA) as anyone. All I can offer is that it probably comes down to getting the hang of it...keep trying. Peripheral ports are finicky to start due to the low intake velocity, overlap and lack of a choke. Usually, it's the cold starting that is hard to master (I never had a problem with a warm start), but if you use the wrong technique anything is possible. So, if you are currently trying to start it warm with, say, 2 pumps of the throttle and lightly feathering the throttle while cranking, then try some other combo...like one pump and more heavily feathering the throttle. Experiment. About the only thing certain is that the warm start technique will be considerably different than the cold start technique.

I suppose the problem could be low compression, even with a fresh rebuild (did you break it in properly?), but that wouldn't be my first guess.

 

its not flooding is it?
you have alot less dense air around when the engine is hot, so alot less O2 which is necessary for starting. I would hate to admit it put maybe an electric turbo might be what you need. Does starting fluid help get it going?

these are just ideas, you need to play around with it and figure out its "G-spot" of starting. So do alittle foreplay and get that puppy screaming.

 

BINGO!i think i might know what it is now. the corner seals or springs. My dad rebuilt it w/ used coner seal springs. Thanx for the advice guys. Time to tear up that puppy!

 

iAye Carumba! Why the hell would he do something like that?! I've done some super budget rebuilds before but always found enough lint-covered change in the bottom of my pocket to buy new corner seal springs. The wire-type ones are about a buck apeice ($12 total) and the better 3rd gen ones are a whopping $2.50 or so each ($30 total). Did he re-use any other springs? If so, take this opportunity to replace them before yet another rebuild. I know all the little stuff adds up but it's money well spent. Cutting corners (pun intended) is not an economically sound way to build a motor if you just end up rebuilding it again and again.

Oh well, we all do things like that and , hopefully, learn from it. One of my more brilliant moves was to accidentally use standard oil pan bolts on a REPU motor, which uses longer ones to make up for the added thickness of special reinforcing flanges. That was just an oversight...the dumb part was after destroying the threads of at least half the holes in the block, I drilled out and helicoiled only the holes I knew were F'd up; not all of them while I had the opportunity. Sure enough, when I dropped the motor in the truck and filled up the pan with oil, it leaked like an SOB. Dumb, dumb, dumb...but it will *never* happen again!