1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Power Windows - 1985 GSL

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Old 03-10-23, 04:11 AM
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Power Windows - 1985 GSL

So.....one second my windows were working, the next they were not. Pulled the fuse..it was good...while I had the fuse out, I went ahead and metered the "fuse holder" for that fuse...12V like it should be...got out the schematic, looked for 12V on the black/blue wire at the window switches (plug I-05), nothing...so I am losing my 12V between the fuse box and the window switches...going by the schematic, the 12V goes through plug X-12...going by the picture, that plug appears to be under the driver's seat...does anyone know if that is indeed where it is at? The picture is kind of funky...thanks for any/all assistance!!! Mike
Old 03-10-23, 10:47 AM
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it goes to the console up/down switches and then to each door. The switches are notorious for bad connections. Mazda didn't use relays so all the power does through the switches. Adding relays and a 12V power source inside the doors would really help. The all the switches need to do is control the relays. A double relay setup is pretty easy. Two relays per door with one for UP and one for DOWN.
Old 03-12-23, 06:58 AM
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As it turns out the X12 plug is under the drivers seat. I read out the Black/Blue contact and got 0 volts. I went back and double checked the fuse (good) and metered the fuse holder (12V). So....it looks like an "open" between the fuse box and the plug. I took up everything to inspect the wire (pulled seats, took up the door entry runner and looked at the wire under it, pulled the kick panel and inspected)...all looked good. No broken wires and it looks like the wire bundle is under no real stress. My GUESS, the problem is under the dash/fuse box somewhere...and I am not taking apart the dash. With that said, I cut the black/blue wire by the X12 plug and connected 12V to it. Got the windows closed. I am thinking of just running a new wire from the battery, with an in-line 30 amp fuse and splice it into the wire I cut to close the windows. Wont need to turn the ignition on to operate the windows anymore. This really bugs me, as I hate doing this and would prefer to keep it as original as possible, but with all the plastic clips and such, I don't want to take apart the dash for fear of breaking clips. Has anyone come across this problem and if so, where did you find the issue? Thanks again for any and all assistance...Mike
Old 03-12-23, 09:34 AM
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Did you check the connector in the console that plugs into the switches or the switches themselves?
Old 03-12-23, 10:00 AM
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When i put 12V on the wire to the switch connector (center console/hand brake) and I could move the windows...that told me the switch connector and the switches are fine...the issue is I lose 12V between the fuse box and the connector under the seat (X12 by the schematic)..the picture is of the "X12" connector...


The exposed wire is the one I put 12V on to work the windows...and they did work...
Old 03-12-23, 06:44 PM
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I'd start physically inspecting those power wires. I like your approach to electrical troubleshooting. I was an ET in the Navy and we had what they called a 6 step troubleshooting guide. You've narrowed down a circuit, now time to do some physical inspections. You could also ohm out those power lines put a power probe can also work.
Old 03-14-23, 06:15 AM
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Hi KCREPU,
Yeah, I am retired Navy...I was an AT, made Chief, then made LDO. I have isolated the issue to a physical problem (open circuit) between the fuse box and the X12 plug. I have looked over the wire up until it goes under the dash and all looks good. I poked the wire up to that point and no 12V which further tells me the problem is under the dash or on the backside of the fuse box. I was kind of hoping that someone has had a similar issue and would share where they found the issue. As I said before, I am NOT taking apart the dash board because I fear breaking 30+ year old plastic clips. So....at this point, it's just going to be easier to run a new power wire from the battery and put in a 30 amp in line fuse. Hate doing it, but it seems like the "lesser of all evils"...
Old 03-14-23, 05:38 PM
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You could try applying power to the X12 Black/Blue half-splitting it between with a pin directly into the wire. Could also ohm it instead. This would check if there is a break in the wire. My bet is in the fuse block itself. I also have a 1985 GSL (white with read interior) I can do the same so you have a reference on what to do.
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