I want to get my engine powder coated...does anybody know where I can buy the powder from. I want to make sure I can find the right color before I get it done. Does anybody know of any places?

 

You can get regular type powder from http://www.eastwoodco.com/

The main thing you have to remember is that powdercoating takes high temperatures, so you have to be careful with aluminum. I dont' know about engines, but people have had trouble in the past where powdercoating aluminum rims has weakened them and they've failed under mild stress. Some racing bodies won't even let you run *any* powdercoated wheels because of this. I sure wouldn't want to try that on my engine.

Get your powdercoating place to use a low-temp powder (some are available) on the aluminum housings if possible.

Maybe someone else has more input?

Jon

 

for what it's worth, add this to what Jon said:
i inquired a while back about powdercoating engine parts and was discouraged because it apparently does not stand up very well to petroleum products.

 

Powdercoating does not aid in thermal transfer.

 

Powder coating gives you aids.

 

^^^ Lol

 

So I should just use highheat paint instead? Will the paint give me aids?

 

No, just lung cancer. And testicular cancer.

 

What about herpes?? I want herpes, what do i have to use to get that?

 

To not jack this thread too much, southernrunner, if you want to use high-temp paint, you shouldn't have a problem with that. I've heard from some guys who've cleaned and sanded the best that they could with their engine and then used that and haven't had a problem yet.

 

If you use it, it will come...

 

I'm in the process of powder coating all the engine parts under the hood (excluding the rotor housing and plates). Here are some examples. If anyone wants to have any parts powder coated, let me know and we can work something out.

The water pump housing was done with a chrome powder coat base with translucent candy red. The oil pan was dome with single stage chrome and the engine mount was done in charcoal metallic.

 

Too much gleam. Not bad, but too much shininess in my opinion. I've always seen powdercoating as a dull matte look. But, then again, all I've seen that on were muscle cars.

 

So in other words, it would be best to not powdercoat the engine just the small parts in the engine bay? The only thing that sucks about that is I can't find the exact blue that I have found for the powdercoating. Where can I go besides Advanced Auto parts, which doesn't have the color, to find high temp paints?

 

Auto Zone or Pep Boys (aka Pep-Mart or Wal-Boys). I've used that High-Temp stuff before on my truck with gloss black, flat black, and aluminum. I've gotten good results out of it, maybe you should give it a try.

 

I just might do that. Hell I have other housing and parts laying around at my house, I will try it on those first.

 

I must admit, after all the painting was done, my truck's engine had a nice "mechanical" look to it with all the black and aluminum. Looked old-age muscle car.

 

I do all of my own powdercoating. The engine in the widebody is coated, irons, housings, pan and all accessories. Unfortunately some of the coatings are not chemically resistant. The first time the carb ran over, the housings and irons dulled and are beginning to delaminate. There are not many coatings that are resistant. Most of the candys, chromes, metallics and clears have this problem.

Columbia Coatings and Pendry Coatings both have online websites to order from. Take out the space and add '.com'.

Jon, I have seen this rumor on the forum about rims cracking. Until someone posts factual evidence, with pics, I will continue to believe it is a rumor. There are too many factory and aftermarket wheels on the street that are powdercoated new for this to be a problem.

KCREPU, Nice job, but a word of caution from experience. Never ever coat mounting flanges or interior parts of the engine or cooling system. Your water pump housing is now a very nice looking paper weight. You are also the 4th person that I know of in the 1st gen section that offers powdercoating, myself included. You will also need to block the threads or retap them alter coating.

 

trochoid has a point, I haven't seen evidence of this, but also haven't seen evidence against it (if such a thing can be considered)... so that's why I advocate caution.

As a matter of fact, trochoid may end up powdercoating a set of + wheels for me at some point, but I would be more reluctant to do it if I had paid big money for the wheels, at least until I felt comfortable with them.

Part of me thinks that the rumor of weak powdercoated wheels isn't the powdercoat, but the wheels. There are panasport knockoff wheels which have had some problems but they're not street legal purely because of the fact that they're made to be that light. If someone powdercoated rims like that, the powdercoating process could easily be blamed.

Jon

 

I do need to cleanup the water pump housing. It can be cleaned very easily with some BIX. No big problem. I have retapped the threads also. I need to get some silicon plugs for those holes next time. Thanks for the advise Trochoid.

Eastwood Company has a very good discussion board on powder coating.

 

Save your money on the plugs. I thread in the mounting bolts that I will be using, Problem solved. I then have powdercoated bolts and an easier way to hang parts for coating and hanging in the oven. The 1st intake I did, I coated the flanges on an S4, then couldn't get the coating off. Went out and bought a bench mounted belt/disc sander and sanded the coating off. That intake is now a pretty paper weight because the surface isn't true and had major intake leaks. The only way to true it up would be to send it to the machine shop. Who knows what the coating would look like by the time they were done with it.

Most of the powdercoats begin to soften at 250*, that is why you don't coat internal surfaces. You don't need that stuff floating around in the oil or coolant.

 

KansasCityREPU

what kind of deals you giving out.

I have a place here that does powdercoating,its liek 10 mins from my house.

 

As an example, I could do an engine mount for $25 + shipping or front engine cover for $35 + shipping. This is for a single color. Candy colors would be $10 more because they require a second coat of powder. All parts are bead blasted and cleaned.

Rotor houings and engine irons can not be bead blasted and require a lot of prep work if they are used parts. I takes about 4 hours for 3 irons and 2 housings.