trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I'm just going to be blunt here, and at this point in time I don't even care about being polite. WTF is your problem? You ask for advice, you've been given some of the best out there that there is, yet you still keep trying to find some way to wiggle around what you need to do and not listen.

If this is how you plan on going about installing and turbocharging your engine, you might as well quit now cause it ain't gonna happen. You're acting like a 3 year old pulling on Mommy's apron strings and won't quit until you get the answer you want, no matter how many times she says no.

You need an oem style oil cooler, PERIOD

Mods, please close this thread.

bliffle

One further point: you mention silver soldering the fittings. This is a bad idea since silver solder is poor for any butt joint: it's only good for lap joints. Silver solder is just silver and tin (and maybe some other alloys) and NOT strong. It gets it's utility from it's ability to infiltrate tight lap joints and adhere well to metals like steel and brass and copper.

You really need to study some basic engineering or spend time with guys who know their stuff before undertaking expensive ignorant experiments with engines. Otherwise you'll just get frustrated and go around complaining to people about what bad engine the rotary is.

chedda_j

haha dont be so bitchy, its christmas.
Im going to get a cooler FFS. Dont worry, if you really dont want to hear it, then dont respond, you dont have to read it do you? So put up or shut up. Atleast i do understand how they work now, not until nearly the last reply have i got all the information i needed. IF i was to ask what i needed for an oilcooler i would have gotten the response "use a FMOC" or whatever. By asking my questions, ive learned that i need a FMOC, plus a temp gauge, not to use silver sauder, and that i cant use really anything else. Thats alot more info than just use a OC from a original FB or FC.

NOw i have one in my car right now, i have the beehive? But all this info was just to relate how im going to have a turbo intalled. In the last topic that i started i was bashed about how i should use a OC instead of the beehive for my turbo application, so i automatically thought it was a good idea to start another topic to figure out what they ment by OC. Therefore i got all the information that i needed, becides one piece of informartion, is it not a good idea to run a small OC for the turbo itself so that it is self reliant? This meaning that the turbo oil isnt effected as much by the beehive and rather the OC itself. AND i still dont know how the turbo oil lines work. I know you guys brushed over it but still all ive got was...FEEDLINE from highpressure area, meaning after the filter along the line somewhere right?.. is there another line that runs back to the oil pan? Or should it run somewhere else? I dont remember reading that anywhere. Anyways.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

On the S1/S2 units, it's located below the radiator, and on the GSL-SE and FC it's in front of the radiator. Both locations are good for the stock cooling fan to get some air through...

I believe on the FD's, it's off to the side.

The most demand on cooling will be under high load. Usually at that point, you'll be moving fast, so wind will cool it. The only other circumstance I cna tink of for high load would be a dyno pull. In that case, ANY good dyno shop should have fans pushing air through the front of your vehicle.

Small radiator to use as an oil cooler? Definitely not. Have a look at your oil pressure Gauge. See the top reading is somewhere at 60-80 PSI... Have a look at a coolant cap. 15 PSI or so... You'll blow the radiator to smithereens...



As far as a completely seperate and independant cooling and oiling system for the turbo, it's an interesting idea.

You'd have your own cool oil and coolant running through the turbo, so there's be less of an impact on the stock coolant and oiling systems on the car. The turbo might even last longer due to being supplied with cool oil, and the system might ultimately be more efficient, as the turbo won't warm the intake charge up as much...

HOWEVER, you've got the added weight and complexity of extra pumps and tubing. Most turbos are fluid bearings, meaning that instead of an actual ball or needle bearing or sleeve bushing, the shaft actually floats on a cushion of high pressure oil... You'll need to find a very high pressure electric pump.

chedda_j

Thanks. As for the seperate cooler, i was thinking more of just using the high pressure from the engine itself and redirecting it to the OC and then to the turbo, that way it would save on having to find a resevoir and EOP. Thanks.

bliffle

Separate cooling system means you lose the benefit of heat pooling. The isolated turbo oil cooler can run up to any temp, whereas when you're hooked into the coolant system the max is about 212 or maybe 240 with a pressure cap.

Harebrained Trial And Error experiments are what create blown engines and people badmouthing rotary engines.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

On the FC Turbo II, they already tap the existing oil passage in the front iron...

In adapting a turbo to an N/A engine, I'd take it from the filter area. This way you have good CLEAN oil going through the turbo. Remember, that's a fluid bearing. It's just floating on a film of high pressure oil. Gunk will knock teh shaft off kilter or put a nick in it and turn your turbo into a nice paperweight.

Turns out, ReSpeed already makes a product that allows for just this such purpose. It replaces the oil filter pedistal and has two or three outlets. You can use others for oil temp and pressure monitoring, but use one of the outlets as a turbo oil supply.

Then just drain back into the pan.

chedda_j

Thanks, does respeed make it for the Beehive of the Square version? If its that easy then il just order one thanks.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

It's for both...

You remove the beehive or the 1978-1988 pedistal and the engine is the same underneath.

It's like two or three 10 or 12mm nuts and a pair of o-rings.

Mine never included o-rings when I opened the package, so make sure you have some on hand.

chedda_j

Thanks. Linky? www.respeed.com right?

85 FB

http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed

Pele

iTrader: (28)

They had the option of going for a bigger oil supply line for the turbo. I think you have to special request that.

sgieldon

I thought this Thread started with (Can I use a Transmission Cooler as a Replacement for a FMOC)???
Top Dogs said NOOOOO.
Now it's found it's way to who knows where.
Next time take the advice and go with it and then start a new Thread.

Merry Christmas to all and go spend those Gift Cards.
sgieldon
steve

chedda_j

"Our Oil pedestal has been CNC machined from Billet stock. The filter bung is machine one piece to the billet body. The block replaces the stock filter pedestal and allows the addition of (2) 1/8 npt ports for aftermarket gauges. The pedestal comes with new o-rings, and mounting hardware.

This unit will fit RX2, RX3, RX4, REPU, SA, FB and FC Model Rx7s."

Looks like it says here that it will fit my car, one port is for a oil temp and one could be for the turbo line, or is 1/8 too small?

chedda_j

New thread on new questions