Some more pictures of the front iron plate...



Also some more images of the part I think should be shaved off...

 

Here is some more Jeff let me know if you think this is enough texture in the sidewalks of the intake ports.

 

It might be ok. One unfortunate fact about capturing ports with a camera is they are a 3D object projected onto a 2D surface (like a PC monitor) so it's never going to be accurate. Thus I can't comment on your port shape.

As for the surface finish you're asking about, I'd say your pics aren't good enough for me to say 100%. But from what I can see, they are decent.

How do they feel compared with the original sand casting of the runners?

 

They are almost the same. With out the large casting marks or runner lines

 

Ok, that's good enough. Never polish or smooth ports like glass. I aquired a set of irons that were ported too smooth once. They were also resurfaced by the PO so I felt good about giving them to a metal recycler.

 

My fist exhaust port. I think it started out ok but it still didn't turn out right. Good thing I have plenty of crap iron housings to practice on before I do my good ones.

 

Porting is done and assembly is in progress. I will get pictures uploaded this week for all of you to see this nice shiny engine lol

 

Hers some pics...

 

looking good. i like the port work you did, particularly in the runner you showed. i definitely look forward to seeing some video of the first fire and hearing your thoughts on how you like it while driving.

question on your ROPR modification: i'm actually about to do my first one (it always intimidated me and REW ones are cheap, what can i say?) and until now, i was only aware of beating them down with a hammer, but i recently watched a video where the guy said he basically smashed it with a press. could you just do a basic description of how you did yours?

 

Quick take all my money and if your keeping any of your old irons and housings let me know I would like them for display in my shop if your lookin to sell them.

 

Yes I can what I did was use our 35 ton press and a bearing splitter I use the bearing splitter to grab the edge of it after the treads not to damage them. And I used the press to push the end in but I only pushed it about half way down. I didn't want too high of a pressure and I figure this will put it at around 60-80 at idle and possibly keep it under 100 psi at high RPMs.

 

LoL nope I didn't keep my practice irons but I did get another complete engine so now I have my spec 74 build, and two stock 12a engines. I am going to do a full bridge port next. But I want to keep my original engine stock because my 13 year old son wants my 1st gen RX7 and I don't want to let him have too much power for a beginner. I will port engines for people though. I have a lot of practice and they seam to be turning out nice. So let me get this one up and running in the car and we can go from there.

 

Alright sounds good to me but when I change jobs hopefully this year me and a buddy are going search around for some old 12A's ourselves and start porting them in my shop see if we can make a rally motor.

 

So I have a possible problem here. The 84 engine had a bad flywheel... So what is the downside or upside to using my almost brand new 82 clutch and flywheel?

 

Vibrations, worn out bearings, wrong clutch size (225mm vs 215mm).

 

depends on the rotors you have used

if they where marked F and R AND N ( or T for turbo )
then they are late rotors and must use a front counter weight that is 120 degrees spread on the wings and the flywheel that uses a 225 mm ( 9 inch ) lug faced flywheel

if your rotors where only marked F and R ( front and rear ) then you need to have used the 180 degree wing front mass ( has a large B bossed on edge of one wing )
and then you need to use one of the 215 mm ( 8.5 inch ) clutch flywheel
( is flat with inner step )

you need to be sure front and rear masses suit the rotors

suggest maybe easier to use the correct auto counterweight ( for the rotors ) they come as early or late ...and so you can fit an aftermarket billet flywheel of your choice

 

This makes a lot of sense now. I will use the 82 clutch system because that's what was on the engine that I built. I just figured I would use the bigger flywheel but it sounds like that would have been a bad idea. Thanks for the information.

 

 

Hi Gents, just noticed I only uploaded the picture not the text.

I saw this threads and tried to print out the template for that TII intake port and put on my 12A, it aligns perfectly with the port at closing but moves the opening about 5mm down, I thought the idea was to keep the port open for longer at the closing edge.

Does this mean i might have a 74 spec side iron ? Or do i simply align the template with the opening edge and then port the closing edge instead ?