DAMNIT

I was putting my upper intake back together and as I was trying to put the OMP rod back onto the trottle body the rod just popped loose right in my hand...

Is it easy enough for me to put back on from underneath or do I have to take it ALL APART?

DAMNIT!!!!!!!

84 GSL-SE 13b

 

You should be able to put it back on with no problems. If I remember right it's just a pin that goes thru it. check around on the ground for a cotter pin or find something to fit in the hole.

 

looking now its gotten worse...the pin is what popped off with the bracket......i'll take a pic of it in a min...

 

here is the OMP side of the rod with what looks like the crank that popped off...

 

here's a pic of the crank connected to the arm...

 

The thing in your pic is rivited on the lever arm of the OMP. It looks like your rivit failed. It's not really a rivit, but it is quite similar. Mine was getting really sloppy so I squished the rolled-over metal a little with a vicegrip. You may be able to repair yours this way. It depends on how much rolled-over metal is still there. It may be easier to get another OMP arm.

 

is there room enough from underneath to try that? i'd really hate to take it all off and risk snapping the OMP lines

 

My engine was on an engine stand when I 'crimped' it. It was really easy to get to. Yours will be more difficult. You can probably get to it from the top. I don't remember if my waterpump was installed yet.

 

i would want to avoid as much removing as possible to correct this...i know i may have to...but what i want to know is if it is even possible to correct this from underneath and not touch or remove anything...

btw thanx to those helping...i really appreciate the input! keep it coming...(especially a post stating that i can be done from underneath )

 

It's gonna be very difficult to fix that in place IMO. I'd remove the pump to survey the damage if I were you. If it's fixable then get yourself an OMP rebuild kit and be done with it.

 

Underneath will be the easiest, you will have to remove the aluminum plate under the car. Its still going to be a pain, the lower radiator hose will be in your way too. Good luck, maybe the junkyard would be a better solution at this point....

 

Removing the air-pump will give you better access as well.

 

So what, did the rod break? All I can say is that I've gone through this with mine and you have to do either of two things: 1- Take stuff apart, or 2- Get lucky, like me.

 

if i can't put the rod back in from underneath then i'll have to do a rebuild...till then can i premix and assume its not pumping anything?

also, will i have to drain all the oil out to take it out? or will the holes into the oil be small enough to just do a slite drip?

there should be a write up on r&r since so many of us either take it out and premix or rebuild it...

 

You do not have to drain the oil when you remove the OMP, the oil level isn't that high.

I say do the rebuild. Compared with what you've done already, it really is an easy job.

 

I would have to agree with inittab: unfortunately, I don't think you would be able to repair it properly with the OMP on the car. There's just no room between the arm and the engine.

The lines will be safe if you disconnect them from the OMP and remove it completely before working on it.

From the picture, it doesn't look like you'll be able to repair the "rivet" part as Jeff20B did. Personally, I would try to drill and tap it for an M3 screw. If you don't have a tap set, an individual tap is not expensive.

I don't know how much oil is pumped at idle (i.e. with the rod disconnected), if any, but it definitely would not hurt anything at all to have some oil from the OMP along with the oil from premixing.

You could run it that way for as long as it takes to get around to pulling the OMP, without fear of hurting anything.

-John.

 

hector, why dont you eliminate this mess by running premix?

mmo ownz j00

 

i'll do the premix till i'm ready to rebuild or replace...thanx guys...

question...who has done the reservoir upgrade? i'm interested in doing that when i fix the OMP...

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm