1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

please help my car has problems!

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Old 04-25-03, 03:35 PM
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please help my car has problems!

ok, heres what i have done, i got new exhaust gaskets cuz my other ones were leaking like a mother, that didnt really help, i tried putting on a different carb i had, but that didnt help either, so im back to my original carb. i bought a new cap and rotor, new plugs and wires and its still really messed up. it will start and idle fine, but it has no power, it will get over 7 grand, but slowly, and when i put it down, all the gas comes shooting back out of the secondaries. im not sure if its out of the both sides of the secondaries, but i know for sure it comes out of the back one. i just dont know what could be wrong anymore, im pretty sure im running both rotors, i dont think the motors blow, just becuase of the way it idles. but i do need to rev it to 3500 4000 just to start in 1st. please help my other car just died too, so this is my only hope for a vehicle.

thanks for the help,
kyle
Old 04-25-03, 03:41 PM
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oh yeah, and it back fires a lot, it even backfired when i turned the car off, so i dont know whats up with that.
Old 04-25-03, 03:51 PM
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Check your ignition timing. Or you may have crossed ign wires. Definately sounds ign related.
Old 04-25-03, 03:55 PM
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how do you check the timing? is there an easy way to do it?
Old 04-25-03, 03:56 PM
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follow the manual. youll need a timing light. First make sure your wires are hooked up right.
Old 04-25-03, 04:18 PM
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the t goes on the top ones and the l goes on the bottom ones right, and the ones on the bottom of the cap, or more towards the bottom, go to the rear rotor, and the the others go to the front rotor right?
Old 04-25-03, 04:43 PM
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The cap is marked.
L1- goes to lower front plug
T1 upper front plug
L2- lower rear plug
T2 upper rear plug
L goes to rear coil
T goes to front coil
Old 04-25-03, 05:37 PM
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hmm.. I was thinking more clogged catalytic converter... with air coming back up the secondaries, it doesn't sound like the air is getting out the exhaust!!
Old 04-25-03, 06:13 PM
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Maybe, but usually a car with clogged cats starts and runs at low rpms fine. Its when you get into upper rpms and are flowing alot of exhaust gas that the clog starts to show up as lost power. ie- wont rev/no power above xxxx rpms.
Old 04-26-03, 12:33 PM
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It's often been suggested that if you have old cats to "empty them out"... How the heck would one do this? I'm guessing by empty they mean to gut them and make them as useful as a straight pipe right?

I don't have to pass emissions, but I was wondering about the cat... I plan to go to RB exhuast next year, but since the cat's old, is there a cat replacement pipe I can throw in on an 84 GS? Or can I hollow it out myself?

Jon
Old 04-26-03, 02:07 PM
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1st, to test for bad cat, just disconnect the exhaust at the manifold flange and test it that way. It will be loud but quick and cheap.

2nd, if you have air coming up your secondaries (after you've opened your exhaust), it can be only 1 thing thats not really bad. You are preigniting and the gases are expanding up. Rotaries dont have valves and timing systems which can cause the pistons to push gases up.

You need to check your timing. Go down and buy a Haynes manual and follow it. Buy the cheapest timing gun you can. The one that connects between the wrie and plug is best. The one that clips over the wire and uses pickup isnt good for rotaries. Your timing light will wander all over since it fires so much. Your Haynes will also recommend the cheaper light.

If its not preigniting, then its possible you have a cracked seal. Gases are blowing by and coming up the intake. You can have a blown seal and still have the engine idle fine. Mine did. It just had no power and took forwever to climb rpms. You could also grab a cheap compression tester and do a quick average compression check on the rotors.
Old 04-26-03, 03:12 PM
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Viper, yes you can hollow them out with a long screwdriver. You can also buy a replacement pipe. I got one from www.testpipe.com . Bolted right in and flows better than a stock, gutted cat, and its cheap!!!!!! But youll need new gaskets probably. Mazdatrix for those. They cost more than the pipe IIRC.
Old 04-26-03, 03:13 PM
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Originally posted by Spieder
1st, to test for bad cat, just disconnect the exhaust at the manifold flange and test it that way. It will be loud but quick and cheap.

2nd, if you have air coming up your secondaries (after you've opened your exhaust), it can be only 1 thing thats not really bad. You are preigniting and the gases are expanding up. Rotaries dont have valves and timing systems which can cause the pistons to push gases up.

You need to check your timing. Go down and buy a Haynes manual and follow it. Buy the cheapest timing gun you can. The one that connects between the wrie and plug is best. The one that clips over the wire and uses pickup isnt good for rotaries. Your timing light will wander all over since it fires so much. Your Haynes will also recommend the cheaper light.

If its not preigniting, then its possible you have a cracked seal. Gases are blowing by and coming up the intake. You can have a blown seal and still have the engine idle fine. Mine did. It just had no power and took forwever to climb rpms. You could also grab a cheap compression tester and do a quick average compression check on the rotors.
Ive had both good and bad results with the clip on lights though.
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