1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Pilot Bearing Removal - Help!!!

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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 01:26 AM
  #1  
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Pilot Bearing Removal - Help!!!

I have read most or all of the fact pages on this site about removing the Pilot Bearing, however, I am still dumbfounded. I bought a Pilot Bearing removal tool and am renting a slide hammer. The problem is that the tranny driveshaft will not allow the use of the Pilot tool, as it is in the way. Even if I shim down the tool, it still will not clear the driveshaft. I have read the sections devoted to using toilet paper, but I really don't understand how putting TP into a 1/8th inch hole in the driveshaft make the Pilot Bearing come off?
So, I need to know what to do. Does the driveshaft come out? If it does, how?

Help???
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 01:47 AM
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The pilot bearing is in the end of the e-shaft, not the driveshaft. I hope that was a typo, if not, get someone to help you.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 02:02 AM
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Yes, typo - E-shaft.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:27 AM
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Ok Ya'll - Here is a new twist in the Pilot Bearing removal business. I figured it out. No need for a Pulling tool. No need for a Slide hammer. All you need are two claw hammers of equal lenght and size. Place both claws behind the Pilot Bearing and cross the handles to make an "X". Use the leverage against the bellhousing to force the Bearing off. Works like a charm!

So, for all of you like me who have been frustrated after reading the FAQS and other posts about how difficult it is to pull your Pilot Bearing - try this! It took me five seconds to pull mine this way - And believe it or not, it was my wife's idea! (gotta give credit where credit is due!)

Have fun!
Tazz
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 07:46 AM
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I'm confused...Were you removing the throw-out bearing from the transmission input shaft?
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 07:50 AM
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Yeh, getting those claw hammers down in that little tiny pilot bearing hole would be a trick.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:08 AM
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yes- it is the Throw out bearing- my bad- Noob trying to figure out how things work. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:19 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Tazzman69
yes- it is the Throw out bearing- my bad- Noob trying to figure out how things work. Sorry for the confusion.
No problem...Thanks for the tip on the removal.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 05:56 PM
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From: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Originally Posted by Tazzman69
Ok Ya'll - Here is a new twist in the Pilot Bearing removal business. I figured it out. No need for a Pulling tool. No need for a Slide hammer. All you need are two claw hammers of equal lenght and size. Place both claws behind the Pilot Bearing and cross the handles to make an "X". Use the leverage against the bellhousing to force the Bearing off. Works like a charm!

So, for all of you like me who have been frustrated after reading the FAQS and other posts about how difficult it is to pull your Pilot Bearing - try this! It took me five seconds to pull mine this way - And believe it or not, it was my wife's idea! (gotta give credit where credit is due!)

Have fun!
Tazz
You're confusing the **** out of us. There is no need for a puller of any sort when removing the throwout bearing. It slides freely on the input shaft.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 06:05 PM
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no, he's not talking about the throwout bearing, you guys are confusing him...
for clarification, the pilot bearing is located inside the end of the e-shaft ON the ENGINE. The throwout bearing is located on the clutch fork and input shaft of the transmission and is ON the TRANNY. Quite different, and he had it right the first time.

the pilot bearing is easy to remove with the engine out, but can be difficult to replace while still in the car. A puller is the easiest way, especially mazdas own tool, but others will work as long as they fit in the small hole of the e-shaft.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 10:22 PM
  #11  
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That scheme with two claw hammers might work, the claws give a grip and leverage, but you gotta have a couple hardened picks to go in the hole and catch the nether end of the PB. maybe a couple of those case-hardened nails from the hardware store would do the trick.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 07:33 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by mcnannay
no, he's not talking about the throwout bearing, you guys are confusing him...
for clarification, the pilot bearing is located inside the end of the e-shaft ON the ENGINE. The throwout bearing is located on the clutch fork and input shaft of the transmission and is ON the TRANNY. Quite different, and he had it right the first time.

the pilot bearing is easy to remove with the engine out, but can be difficult to replace while still in the car. A puller is the easiest way, especially mazdas own tool, but others will work as long as they fit in the small hole of the e-shaft.
Originally Posted by Tazzman69
Ok Ya'll - Here is a new twist in the Pilot Bearing removal business. I figured it out. No need for a Pulling tool. No need for a Slide hammer. All you need are two claw hammers of equal lenght and size. Place both claws behind the Pilot Bearing and cross the handles to make an "X". Use the leverage against the bellhousing to force the Bearing off. Works like a charm!

So, for all of you like me who have been frustrated after reading the FAQS and other posts about how difficult it is to pull your Pilot Bearing - try this! It took me five seconds to pull mine this way - And believe it or not, it was my wife's idea! (gotta give credit where credit is due!)

Have fun!
Tazz
Since your so smart mcnannay, explain to me how you can get two claw hammers inside the pilot bearing and how you can use the bellhousing as leverage when it's nowhere near the damn thing.

Maybe I'm just a dumbass.

Last edited by REVHED; Jan 26, 2006 at 07:35 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 08:26 AM
  #13  
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To clear up some confusion!
I talked to Tazzman on the phone yesterday to clear this up.
He was confused as to Which Bearing was Which.
(Tazzman was talking about the TrowOut Bearing). It had actually seized itself to the Trannie Shaft.
I sold him a Clutch, Pressure Plate,Throw Out Bearing,Pilot Bearing and Seal last week so on the phone I walked him threw whats-whats and how to clean that shaft up real good and lube it before the new ThrowOut Bearing install.
I also gave him some of my Past Experiences of the Pilot Bearing Removal and Install ways to go cause if the ThrowOut Bearing was as seized as he told me I'll bet that the Pilot Bearing is not going to be a cakewalk. Hopefully I'm Wrong.

One thing you all can do for Tazzman is to give him some Idea how to Identify where on the Fly Wheel,Pressure Plate the 2 Recessed Bolts go.
I've always marked mine as I took them off but he did not, so now his Clutch Disk has about a 1/4-1/2" space where it mates to the Pressure Plate.
I'm sure that the 2 Bolts are in the wrong holes cause he says that when you pull out the alighnment tool the Clutch Disk falls out of place.
Any help on this I'm sure he would greatly appreciate.
Thanks
sgieldon
steve
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 10:45 AM
  #14  
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Thanks Steve, I'll be buying my next clutch kit from you guys. And what would that address be?

Ray
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 03:05 PM
  #15  
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So, what kind of lube is best on the clutch shaft splines these days? In the past I've used silicon grease, lithium grease or Marine wheel bearing grease for boat trailers. All of those seemed to work; the one thing that didn't work was NO grease.
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Old Jan 26, 2006 | 03:26 PM
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From: St Joe MO
Originally Posted by sgieldon
One thing you all can do for Tazzman is to give him some Idea how to Identify where on the Fly Wheel,Pressure Plate the 2 Recessed Bolts go.
I've always marked mine as I took them off but he did not, so now his Clutch Disk has about a 1/4-1/2" space where it mates to the Pressure Plate.
I'm sure that the 2 Bolts are in the wrong holes cause he says that when you pull out the alighnment tool the Clutch Disk falls out of place.
Any help on this I'm sure he would greatly appreciate.
Thanks
sgieldon
steve
If you are refering to 2 of the 6 bolts that hold the pp and disc to the flywheel that have a longer shank, he needs to take the pp off and look in the holes that the bolts thread into. The longer shank bolts go in the holes where the treads start deeper in the flywheel. They are opposite each other by 180*.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 12:43 PM
  #17  
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He knows that part!
Is there any markings that Tazzman can use on the Flywheel since he did not mark them when the Clutch and Flywheel was removed?
Just trying to help him along this project.
Thanks
sgieldon
steve
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