pilot bearing removal
07-24-11, 05:31 PM
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pilot bearing removal
Does anyone have tips on removing the pilot bearing? I tried a bearing puller and it busted the bearing apart and left the outer race intact and still in there. I have a pic but I'm doing this on my phone
07-24-11, 05:37 PM
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07-24-11, 06:50 PM
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The jaws were able to reach the far end for a while, but the outer lip busted. I've turned down a piece of steel to press fit, and used some grease like a piston, but the race wouldn't budge. I'm ready to bust out a torch and chisel.... anyone see any major issues with that? This is really my last resort.
07-24-11, 07:09 PM
#7
If you use a torch, you'll probably end up wrecking your real main seal.
I'd recommend using a small sharp cold chisel to separate the race from the bore enough that you can collapse it.
Either that or very careful application of a dremel tool & a small carbide bit to slot the race.
A free-ended hacksaw would work also, but the odds on cutting past the race and into the bore are pretty high.
I'd recommend using a small sharp cold chisel to separate the race from the bore enough that you can collapse it.
Either that or very careful application of a dremel tool & a small carbide bit to slot the race.
A free-ended hacksaw would work also, but the odds on cutting past the race and into the bore are pretty high.
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07-24-11, 07:59 PM
#9
get the correct mazda puller. i bought one and the whole bearing was out in two pulls. took all of about 20 seconds. using a chisel can groove the eccentric shaft and not allow the new pilot bearing to be inserted proper. a damaged eccentric shaft can require the replacement of the eccentric shaft. not a cheap fix.
07-24-11, 08:11 PM
#10
If you use a torch, you'll probably end up wrecking your real main seal.
I'd recommend using a small sharp cold chisel to separate the race from the bore enough that you can collapse it.
Either that or very careful application of a dremel tool & a small carbide bit to slot the race.
A free-ended hacksaw would work also, but the odds on cutting past the race and into the bore are pretty high.
I'd recommend using a small sharp cold chisel to separate the race from the bore enough that you can collapse it.
Either that or very careful application of a dremel tool & a small carbide bit to slot the race.
A free-ended hacksaw would work also, but the odds on cutting past the race and into the bore are pretty high.
07-25-11, 09:54 AM
#12
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-h...ler-95987.html
get this puller... I've used this same puller to pull tons of pilot bearings one was so rusted in it took 3 days worth of PB Blastering it to get it out. Works like a charm..... and afterwards you can take it back to Harbor Freight and get your money back...
get this puller... I've used this same puller to pull tons of pilot bearings one was so rusted in it took 3 days worth of PB Blastering it to get it out. Works like a charm..... and afterwards you can take it back to Harbor Freight and get your money back...
07-25-11, 10:01 AM
#13
I have the actual Mazda puller; it is designed to capture the back edge of the bearing and pull it out. If his damaged race is all the way in and flush with the back of the bore, and the front lip is missing as shown in the pic, I don't know that it would have any way to grip the damaged race.
07-25-11, 11:49 AM
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DivinDriver has the just if my situation, the race is all the way in already and the front lip is busted off. I'm looking around town today for a couple hardened punches to work on this tomorrow with. Thanks for the help so far everyone.
07-25-11, 06:28 PM
#16
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
I have yet to remove a pilot bearing without the use of a cold chisel and hammer.
The trick is to use a thin-bladed chisel and tap it at an angle to wedge between the embedded race - no need to hammer the hell out of it, just enough to peel up the edge of the steel race that's stuck. Once an edge is exposed, then grab a pair of needle nose pliers and get one jaw under that edge, and then turn the pliers round-and-round. This will peel the race from the eccentric shaft with a minimum of scoring.
Once you've done it a few times, it's not such a pain to remove, and you don't end up doing it all that often to necessitate having the specific tool at $100+. Good luck,
The trick is to use a thin-bladed chisel and tap it at an angle to wedge between the embedded race - no need to hammer the hell out of it, just enough to peel up the edge of the steel race that's stuck. Once an edge is exposed, then grab a pair of needle nose pliers and get one jaw under that edge, and then turn the pliers round-and-round. This will peel the race from the eccentric shaft with a minimum of scoring.
Once you've done it a few times, it's not such a pain to remove, and you don't end up doing it all that often to necessitate having the specific tool at $100+. Good luck,
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