With the speedo, I went side by side with my bro's GSL-SE, who is running with epsilons/205/15 in the rear (BTW, im using a GSL-SE tranny as well). Using our celphones, I verified that we were both running 85 mph except my tach was at 5K rpm.

I mentioned sucky at top end as it took me forever to peg both tach and speedo at an open Interstate Highway. Unlike the 4.10's, its was instant.

 

the part where it says," take to the ma place " is that a secreat code or something? but in all reality.. what exactly you mean. I can take the pinion gears of a ford or something and place them on my LSD? all I would have to do is find "ma" to do the work??


I know.. I am a real big ideot.

 

lol well i feel kinda dumb now caz im not sure what i ment by that....you will need to take the ring and pinion to a shop that knows how to set up reaends/3rd members..... and no you cant just use any R&P more or less the 1's that we have been talking about... here is a list of some of the 1's http://members.aol.com/solomiata/Drivetrain.html

 

so a ring and pinion for a Kia sportage.. from what year?? would be good to pull from the yard, 99?

 

the 4.78 wacky pulled out of a 94...its got to be the front diff/3rd member and it has to be a 4X4 sportage

 

cool time to makes some calls.

ohh hey, mind if I had someone airbrush you sig on the back of my rx7?

 

Damn, another one?

 

lol thats fine with me i just want to see a pic of it

 

AGAIN

GO TO WWW.SOLOMIATA.COM AND CHECK OUT THE DRIVETRAIN PAGE.

 

I found a mazda pick-up 4x4. I got the front diffy...Mis-counted the teeth at first. I thought it was a 4.30.hmmmm FB gears to 4.30..hmmmm much better for freeway driving. then recounted it when I got home. Its a 4.44. how disappointing.

 

Well I pulled a set of 4.44 gears from a Kia Sportage last weekI was hoping for 4.77 but they were 4.44 so I am not sure which specific Kia sportages have the 4.77. I got these out of the front diff of a 95' Kia Sportage 4x4.

Here are some pics of the kia incase you dont know what one looks like.

 

as i havnt read the whole thread but the last post caught my atention
those pictures you displayed is what we are removing and this is what a 3rd member is?

and this is a easey fix so we dont have to weld the old diff

 

I am not exactly sure on what your asking.

But yes this thread is talking about the 3rd member. This is a 3rd member. Only the piece bolted to the ceter of the rear end is refered to as a 3rd member.




Whats wrong with your diff?

 

and the 3rd member is what has the lsd inside?

my diff is fine i just was gonna get it welded for lock diff

 

Holy ****, Kia is now part of a parts car , too. heh

 

Awesome thread, TOP, but my turbo likes the 3.909 for the spool!

 

Yes the 3rd member is where the lsd would be found if the car came with one.

 

that diff.477 is good for drag, a friend of mine ran 12.8 in a 1/4 mile with a 12A port with a 650 holley carb.with that diff. BTW am looking for one!

 

the kia front diffy are peg leg, open or no LSD. The entire 3rd member will fit on a 84-85 wiith little grinding/cutting but I want LSD. So I will be only be using the Ring and Pinion.

 

Er...

The 3rd member will bolt right in to any 1st-gen axlehousing. No grinding required. Been there, done that, and I'm still wearing the T-shirt. It's not an easy fit as it has to go STRAIGHT into the axlehousing due to the tight tolerances. I am assuming this is why you think grinding is required, but grinding would only cause a loose fit which is detrimental.

The Series 3 axles will spline right into the stock Kia diff. The driveshaft flange is the same as '83-85 RX-7.

After I rebuilt my original-equipment LSD, I popped the 3rd member back out, put that diff in the Kia 3rd member, and re-set the backlash to the tight side of spec, instead of twice of max spec the way it was set at the factory.

Wouldn't trade it for the world. Although, I may go back to 3.90's if I swap an automatic in there, as the good automatics don't have overdrive.

 

fuel injection and automatics?

you're getting weird, man.

 

I've never not been a fan of automatics, they just need to be properly set up to the engine. UNfortunately, most smaller engines have a torque curve that doesn't work well with a tight production-type converter. (Although with the advent of lockup converters, there've been some decent ones... Explorers with the SOHC V6 and 5-speed automatic have a nearly 4000rpm stall speed!)

You don't miss shifts with automatics (sequential shift by nature!) and with a proper torque converter you never fall out of powerband, and you actually multiply torque below powerband. Kind of like a CVT when the torque converter's output is below stall speed...

Plus I'm good and tired of lunching gearboxes. I'll give the pro-shifted unit a try before I give up on manuals. There's a very good reason why most drag racers and a good number of off-road trucks use worked automatics instead of manual trannies.

Also note that *proper* automatics do not shift by themselves, they are manually shifted. And then the sicko drag racers put RPM-activated air shifters to shift their manual-valvebody automatics automatically...

 

learn how to use the cluth correctly and you'll stop eating trannies. I've had the same one in my car for 3 years. ABout 1500 drag racig launches and20 autoX events and it doesn't grind any gears, and I'm turbo'd

 

that was colder then my ex gf lol.

My car grinded a little when i got teh car, and it still does now. I lernt how to drive on it, I autox in it, I drift in it, I do everything in my car, and I have never changed the clutch. Once I actualy had the clutch line go when driving. I quickly lernt how to shift without clutch lol

 

lol