I'm happy to say I purchased my first rotary-powered vehicle this evening...I picked it up for 100 bucks from a mechanic that comes into my work often to buy parts. Needless to say, the car needs an insane amount of work before it will run, nonetheless run WELL, so any advice concerning the restoration and repair of this machine is appreciated. I'm also curious about VIN information, if anyone has the knowledge to process this code: JM1FB3315E0825226. I'm fairly new to rotary engines, but somewhat seasoned in automotive mechanics, so I'll gladly accept any tips/suggestions that you may have to offer. I'll get pictures posted as soon as I can snap a few in the daylight tomorrow. All that being said, bring on the posts! Thanks guys. -A

 

Well, what kind of work does it need? What year/model do you have?

 

I got to take a few pictures this morning before work. It will probably make most of you sad to see the condition of this car, being the loyal rotary fans that you are, 'cause it's TRASHED. After crawling around under it, etc. (I didn't get to do this before dropping the 100 on it) all I can say is it's a good thing I work at a parts store. -A
Pics can be seen here: http://community.webshots.com/user/adamatism

 

Congrats on your purchase and welcome to forum and the world of 1st Gen RX-7's!!

Here's a page: Vehicle Identification Numbers Decode You'll notice a lotta guys here referring to the term SA's FB's, FC's and FD's. That's the body style designation. Basically, SA's and FB's are 1st Gen's, FC's are 2nd Gen and FD's are 3rd gen RX-7's.

Since you're new to rotaries, I highly recommend that you bookmark and read Felix's Own General Rotary Engine FAQ.

Again welcome!

--Bob

 

loks like you have a lot of work in your hands good luck with your new car

 

looks like a good project

Then again, I see the potential beauty in any beat-up, 4-tone paint jobbed car

 

Alright, after owning this car for a little over two days, I'm ready to pull this 12A out. This car's been sitting for who-knows-how-long (3+ years) and itsn't even close to running, so I figure I'll start at the beginning and do it the right way.

For now, I'd like to know if there are any tips/tricks to removing this engine. I've already disconnected everything I can see, including the exhaust, all the various sensors and vaccuum hoses, removed the radiator, fan and shroud...basically everything that I can see that's necessary. I've pulled engines before, but never a rotary, and with a manual transmission I've never worked on, I'd like to make sure that I've taken every precaution and am going about this correctly.

This post is quickly becoming too long...reply with suggestions. Thanks. -A

 

Also, does anyone know who rents engine hoists? I don't know if any auto parts store rents 'em (the one I work at doesn't) or if I'm gonna have to borrow one. Any suggestions on engine stands? -A

 

You and a friend could probably lift the motor and set it aside, they're not very heavy. a bit over 200lbs.

 

Hmm, I'm not sure who rents hoists, but I would definately recommend using one. I happened to know someone who had one, so I borrowed it when I pulled the motor out of my SE. You may be able to pull it out without a hoise, but I doubt you'll get it back in without one. Even with the hoist, getting the input shaft back into the engine when I was lining it all up to the tranny took a while, and I think it'd have been just about impossible without the hoist, and load leveler I was using. Good luck.

I'm not sure about 12A's, but my 13B was no fun for the two of us to carry around, but we could do it....but get the hoist, I'd hate to see you drop it on the car.

 

IS the engine bad? Will it turn over?

100$ is a great price for a complete FB- I paid $150 for a wrecked parts car. Good luck.

 

The VIN checks out OK.
Just 3 Registration renewals and a title since 1994.

Nothing else.

 

My dad and I lifted a 22R Cast-iron block, aluminum headed Toyota engine and tranny into my truck

Kinda helped that the cab wasn't on it...