RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Just as the title says. Whats your technique? Assembled and paint while masked, or disassembled and masked off and paint, or some completely different way? How do you do it?

~T.J.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

I've found painting this is easier when they are apart. The downside to that is you have to be more careful while reassembling so you don't chip your new paint. Just make sure everything is completely rust/grease/dirt free before you do anything, prep is the key to a good paintjob.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

The way I'm doing it with the engine I'm currently building is to paint them while they're apart, masking off the sensitive areas with bristol board and masking tape.

It would seem to me that it gets into all the nooks and crannies better than doing it with the engine assembled, and you'll get better paint adhesion since the housings are also MUCH easier to clean when they're apart.

Jon

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

I leave my housings and plates nekkid. Running commando, yah.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Apart. Use a brass brush on a drill and go to town cleaning the hell out of the thing. Then mask off the sides and shove some paper towels inside the ports, and your golden.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

I plan on doing the same with the 13b I'm rebuilding right now, but if I were to paint them I'd do it while the engine is apart....

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Me, too.

If nothing else, it's easier to mask on the flat sides, and the parts are easier to move around your workspace in case you dry in a different place than you spray, or are space-challenged. Also, less to re-do if you have an error.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Thats kind of the route I was planning on going, just masking the sides and going for it, but I figured I would ask. Ive ran them through the parts washer and brass wire wheeled them already, so theyre nice and clean.

~T.J.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I do something similar but put the plates and housings together and hold them in place with a few tension bolts. Use a pnumatic die grinder (or drill) with a brass wheel.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

When I powder coat, I clean the housings and irons with solvent, blow dry then bead blast them, a trip to the oven to bake out the remaining oil, another blast and then a good soapy wash and dry again in the oven. Bead blasting leaves a slightly more textured surface on the housing than a wire wheel, but it creates more surface area for the paint to bond.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I have a glass bead blaster I bought and used for some aluminum heads I could use to blast them, and I thought about that. I was just worried about the internal surfaces, do you just tape them all off? Whats your trick there?

~T.J.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Yes, just tape them off. Use a box cutter or Xacto knife to get it cut exactly.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

You don't really need to tape them off if you can control your spray angle. You do need to wash them extremely well before and after as the cavities will trap sand and introduce it into the oil and coolant after assembly. I even bead blast the coolant passages to clean them out.

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

Just sand blast the irons. Wire wheel the housings. Paint the irons. I have found that the paint stays on the irons better than the aluminum housings. I have always used engine enamal paint. Here is some pics on my Half-Bridge.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

i agree, a wire wheel i a drill or die grinder works well on the aluminum. i hate it when ppl paint the aluminum parts. looks better nice and shinny.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Im thinking black and silver like above, so if I can get a nice natural color I will keep that. I thought about clear coat too though.

~T.J.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If you want to preserve the shine on the housings, use DupliColor high temp clear.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I always use the Dupli Color engine paints for my engines, always had good luck with them. Thanks everyone.

~T.J.