onslaught_81

ok so my cars temp raises to about a third its normal reading when the lights are on, and then if i decide to run air/heater it gets hotter, or if i turn air/heater on without lights it still raises the temp, during the day without lights or air on i run at about a 1/3 reading on the temp gauge and more then 13.5 volts, when i turn on the lights my volts drop to about 12 or less, and my temp reads about 2/3 on the guage, its an 81 stocker, and the alt and battery test good, any help would be great

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I would check the sender/gauge. Electrical problem like thast shouldn't really affect the temp.

fishbulb95

I do notice a similar thing when i'm running with the heater on...

Heater on: Guage needle vertical in the middle
heater off: Guage needle a few degrees cooler

but it's not like this all the time, only happens if i start it up cold with the heater on. Although it is winter and stuff gets weird, and i really don't trust my stock guage. oh well my 2 cents.

82BUCKET

iTrader: (4)

I Was Having A Similar Problem After Doing Some Engine Cleanup. My Problem Ended Up Being A Ground Wire I Had Taken Off To Clean Up The Engine Bay. Put It Back On, No More Temp. Problem.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Are you running a single pulley on the alt without an air pump? If so, it sounds like the belt is slipping, dropping the charging capacity of the alt and the coolant volume of the waterpump.

onslaught_81

thanks for all the feedback if anyone esle has anything for me it would also be much appreciated

Mazda12AGS

My regulator on my alternator whent out and was pushing alot more volts then it should which in turn was pushing the needles on the gauge higher then normal. I thought my car was over heating to, but it wasn't.

onslaught_81

if so wouldnt it might be higher reading all the time or what? just cause its only a higher reading when i turn my lights and/or heater on

Rogue_Wulff

Could be the belt is slipping. Having lights or blower running is putting more load on the alt, which could cause the belt to slip. This is especially true if you don't have an air pump belt.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

You didn't answer the question. If you want more ideas, you need should respond to what has already been put forth. Is everything still stock, or has the air pump been removed?

onslaught_81

ok everything is completey stock except a k&n airfilter, and the only thing not hooked up is the ac, just didnt put the ac's belt on when i replaced my belts about 2-3 weeks ago, its single pulley and i put "Goodyear-Gatorback" belts on the belts dont seem to have any loosness(spelling??) to them, i used the haynes manual specifications and they seem good

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Much better, thank you. Now, if you are not running an aftermarket stereo, with a good sized amp, have the alt tested. It may be on it's way out. If you are running other non- stock items that are putting an extra load on the electrical system, upgrade to an S4 or better alt. The S4 is plug and play and takes you from the stock 55 amp to 70.

onslaught_81

damn yeah i have an aftermarket head unit, and after market speakers but no amp, and no subs, but i do play it loud which im sure pulls more ampage.....anyway so you think it is definetly something to do with the alt? i have a fd alt sitting in my room from silverrotor-doubly pully system, i want to install that just have beeen busy and lazy cause soon i will be using alot more electric on the car ei radar&laser detector, cb radio-maybe, better stereo etc...

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Bah, you haven't seen anything yet. Wait 'til you start run the FD Alt I sent you.

onslaught_81

hahaha...word cant wait to get off my lazy *** and hook it up