1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Overheating in the cold?

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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 02:01 PM
  #26  
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I didn't do it yet, I just got up.

I probably won't get around to doing it until tomorrow, when I can get a new gasket, etcetera...

I had the coolant system flushed August 11, so that sorta rules out a blockage. I personally am leading towards the water pump.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 02:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wotnartd
I didn't do it yet, I just got up.

I probably won't get around to doing it until tomorrow, when I can get a new gasket, etcetera...

I had the coolant system flushed August 11, so that sorta rules out a blockage. I personally am leading towards the water pump.
Sorry, that does not rule of a restriction in the radiator. Doing a flush cleans out alot of things but if the passages have been clogged for awhile flushing will not get the job done.

The water pump would not be the problem unless the impeller had seperated from the bearing and I have only seen that happen once in 30 years. It was not on a RX-7 though.

If the T-stat is barely opening or not opening at all then the coolant/water in the block would stay in the block. It would just pick up more and more heat until the engine overheated.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 02:41 PM
  #28  
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It sounds like the t-stat is sticking. Test it as suggested.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 04:38 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by wotnartd
I just didn't want to replace my gauges.

If there was a bad wire, it would be hot all the time, not after 5 minutes.
I had the sender wire grounding on the block and the gauge read HOT when stopped, but "cooled off" when i started going again.. I could never explain this.
That is why I thought it was a true cooling problem, but only a single wire
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 07:20 PM
  #30  
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Okay, how about this. When it shows that its overheating, shut it down. Then feel the top radiator hose; is it hot? Now, feel the lower hose; is it hot?

If both the top and bottom hoses are hot, then I'd say a bad sending unit or gauge.

If the top hose is still cold, water pump or t-stat.

If bottom hose is cold while top is hot, blockage in the radiator...
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 07:37 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by wotnartd
I just didn't want to replace my gauges.

If there was a bad wire, it would be hot all the time, not after 5 minutes.
I was actually refering to the car, and the thermostat in particular - do the easy and cheap things before trying to replace the water pump/gauge cluster
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 12:27 PM
  #32  
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Well, the thermostat runs fine and the harness is perfect.
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 11:17 PM
  #33  
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This is one helluva a bump, chock full o' updates.

So I've finally been able to look into the radiator issue, after taking everything else out of the equation. Problem number one, the bottom three inches, or so, of the radiator fins were gone, just... rotted away. And the second problem is that the radiator looks to be about 50% blocked.

So I'm buying a new radiator.

I'm looking at getting a very good radiator, I'm not just looking for OEM, I'm looking for above and beyond anything a stock motor would ever do. I will also be doing an e-fan install.

So, my question is as follows: What is a good radiator and e-fan combo?
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Old Nov 3, 2007 | 11:48 PM
  #34  
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Any well known radiator shops around? I would suggest going to one and seeing if they can make you a custom one possibly. Tonnes of possibilities when you do that.

and they may be able to help you out in what a good e-fan is too.

(I work at a rad shop, we've done a few custom rads for different applications, like a h22a civic hatch)
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 12:20 AM
  #35  
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.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 12:33 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ChaosAura
Any well known radiator shops around? I would suggest going to one and seeing if they can make you a custom one possibly. Tonnes of possibilities when you do that.

and they may be able to help you out in what a good e-fan is too.

(I work at a rad shop, we've done a few custom rads for different applications, like a h22a civic hatch)
I never would have thought of that! Thanks you.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 04:47 PM
  #37  
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I've seen people do rad's out of 2nd gens - if it can handle a turbo motor, I'm sure a stock 12a would be not sweat
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