I thought I got the cooling down to a T on my bug last month with it sticking at 190 degrees and not budging for a few test drives.....Well, I had a flooding problem, and ever since that, the temperature creeps up and up and up until I shut it off at 220 degrees. I been going back and forth in my head today...


I pulled and checked thermostat last month, everything was fine. My water setup is sealed, no leaks.My water reservoir shows water in it when its cold at the line, and when I shut it off hot, the water is at the hot line. So that part of the system looks right as well. Well my only conclusion is this....WHAT ABOUT MY OIL COOLER, theres no air really getting to them, would you assume this is my problem...Im attaching a picture of my oil cooler, but if the temps of the oil get very very hot, that will play a role in my water temperature right? If the oil is hot, then its keeping the engine hotter. Do they sell baby electric fans(like whats on my radiator) that I could adapt to my oil cooler and pull air through it? If so, do I need a relay to come on and off as temperature gets hot and cold? I have my radiator tied in direct so when I turn the ignition on, turns the fan on. I wouldnt assume I should do this because I do want the oil temperature to be somewhat hot before it cools? or would it matter?

Sorry for the long post.... Thanks guys

 

http://www.geocities.com/kewda360/rotarybug4.jpg

Its under the water reservoir.

 

ever tried of not running it w/o the thermostat? i do, and it's 1 less of a problem that i don't have to worry about happening.

also use redline water wetter, and see how that goes

 

The oil cooler is important, but not the cause, unless it's clogged. Is there a fan on the radiator? There has to be one on there. Wankel's get hot period air flow over the radiator is very imporntant!!!! You must be getting air past that thing. Also you're running one belt only getting like 20% contact on the water pump with the belt. It could be slipping and not sqweeking. Mine slips on the dyno and overheats, but it doesn't make a sound. Try a double belt alternatorpulley, or search for the yoohoo belt. Or NAPA belt. Lawnmower belt. something like that. Jeff20B has a write up on it some where. Its a small belt that runs on the waterpump andmain pulley and thats it. Like 50% contact on the water pump. I hope this helps. DO NOT LET THAT THING OVERHEAT!!! I let my first engine get a little hot and when things get hot they get brittle and i chipped my apex seals. You don't want that.

 

I do have a fan on the radiator sucking the air through. I also have a scoop on the bottom of the car to get air up into the radiator. I will do the waterpump double pulley I think. I was reading about that the other day in another post and thought, Im gonna keep one belt for less friction, but after your post, Im reconsidering this thought. LOL.

 

I know what the problem is. Your oil cooler is real piece of junk, I'm sorry to say. I have one of those too that came with my baja. It was also installed in the engine bay down, out of the airflow and was probably the cause of the engine's breakdown. I installed a stock 1600 (complete with a stock in-the-tin oil cooler) and it ran without overheating. I will not use that aftermarket one on a rotary unless I can fab up something with a single rotor engine, but even then it's kind of iffy. Heck I'd actually rather use a beehive oil cooler! At least they work, after a fashion.

You really need to get a genuine Mazda rotary oil cooler and install it somewhere where it will get adequate airflow. It might be a good idea to get some big fans for it too.

 

i'm with Jeff on this ...
i'm very much into Volkswagens and Porsches, and i have come across three (3) articles so far where guys have "upgraded" their oil coolers to what? ... yep, to MAZDA oil coolers. it made me feel warm ... okay perhaps too much info, but ... use the Mazda oil cooler.

 

Well, I think the 5$ belt will be first in line, but Im gonna buy a mazda oil cooler as well no matter what. THe oil cooler I have kinda fizzes and sounds like steam(engine so hot) is coming out somewhere. Kinda scary the more I think about it. So what year oil cooler would be best for me, and what is the size(deminsion) as I need to figure this all out. Anyone got a good idea where to get this oil cooler for cheapest, with it be effective!!??!!

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the yoohoo suggestion and oil cooler...

 

I bet any year 1st gen that had an air oil cooler would work. Any 2nd and 3rd gen would also probably work just fine as well. The only differences are slight changes in outer dimensions and line fittings. I don't know the dimensions off-hand.

The GSL-SE coolers tend to crack around the fittings. If you can get ahold of any pre 1st gen coolers, they tend to have one more row of cooling fins. I have one in my MG Midget project. It's installed so I can't measure it accurately for you.

 

Pre first gen would be anything before 79 correct...so 78 and under? Im still trying to figure out a good spot to locate this, I really need to start looking under the car around engine/tranny to see what I want to do. hmm

 

'78 and under is correct.

I too would like to know where to mount an oil cooler in a bug.

 

What is the bee hive oil cooler...im looking around searching and I keep seeing that word used...does that mean stock or? Thanks

EDIT....The next ad for sale I went to...a guy asked what a beehive was, and the reply was stock, ok...on to the battle field I go.....searching

 

'83-'85 12A cars had an oil to water cooler, affectionately refered to here as the beehive for short or beehive oil cooler. There have been many complaints about them. They cause the dowel pin O rings to harden and leak due to the increased heat the beehive operates at. Racing Beat says if your engine will produce more than 175HP, the beehive should be replaced with an air oil cooler.

 

The beehive oilcooler came on the 83 and newer 12a's. It was a cooler that went under the oilfilter and looked like a beehive. It was barley air cooled and watercooled. It only works good enough for 150whp and below apps, in my opinion. They are known for leaking and being replaced by an air/oil cooler. I'd say source some porsche oilcoolers and throw those in. Just to stay VW of course...

 

I dont mind making everything mazda at all, in fact, Im about to buy some mazda seats...lol, was thinking about rotary windshield decal to freak people out. LOL, whats the fun if no one knows whats inside!

I guess I need to make sure I get a air oil cooler!! Im gonna put a want ad out now.

 

It's hard to find a better oil cooler than a stock Mazda unit. I wouldn't use a Porsche one on a rotary.